This is the final part of our Product Lifting series. Today we are discussing the importance of keeping intact the integrity of both the seals of the nail and of the systems we are using.
Placing product underneath the PNF
This practice, without knowing where the eponychium ends (after excessive e-file manicure), is irresponsible.
Deforming the nail unit’s guardian seals is not a part of a nail technician’s (legal) competencies. Should an infection occur, as a result, you will need to have good insurance.
Fig B: Shows left (green arrows) – intact PNF and Nail Plate with cuticle removed.
Fig B: Shows right (red arrows) – PNF & cuticle removed. Nail plate abrasion well behind where the PNF should be, removing the seals that protect the matrix from pathogens
If you proceed to place artificial nail product under the removed PNF and cure it in a UV/LED lamp, as many do … you are contributing to factors that could result in an acrylate allergy for your client. The eponychium is not visible from the outside of the nail unit. So you have no idea if you have caused damage or not. Even if you think it looks amazing – you have no way of knowing.
You also do not know how much product has cured under the remaining nail fold. The product can just be washed away or travel back into the nail unit. Soaking off product from nail units without guardian seals is a guaranteed way to invoke an acrylate allergy.
When it happens, it’s already too late.
Fig E: the eponychium lies under the proximal nail fold. You cannot see it from the outside of the nail unit.
We all do it and we have all done it.
Mixing systems is fine if you are creating nail art for a Multimedia Tip Box Competition, assuming that you are working in a well-ventilated working area (as you should be). There is almost nothing more relaxing than doing that, especially if you have lots of unused nail stuff lying around. It’s a great way to use up all of it and maybe win a prize or 2 in the process. All good and all ok.
If you are creating gorgeous nails for a client that’s paying you money for the service, then you need to make sure that each layer of your enhancement is cured and layered as it should be. No matter if it is gel polish, Acrygel, or Acrylic.
Using a primer or a bond from brand A and then a base coat from brand B, or even a builder gel with a built-in base coat from brand B – is asking for trouble. The 2 products could, instead of being matched, be adverse for each other.
Primer A – goes into the upper layer of the nail plate. The base coat of brand A then goes on the natural nail. The 2 products bind with each other and create the perfect fix on the natural nail.
Bonder B – lays on the natural nail, and cures in a UV/LED lamp. It then creates a sticky layer for the base coat of brand B to bind with, creating the perfect fix on the natural nail.
If you use primer A and combine it with the base coat of brand B – you are mixing chemicals and have no idea if it causes a problem or not until it’s too late. The product can lift, or it can even repel from the nail plate entirely. Worse still, it can create a reaction that may cause an allergy for your client.
Chemists create our artificial nail products with care. Any brand should have a system that works from the primer or bond to the topcoat.
Use the UV/LED light that belongs to the system you use.
Mixing them without knowledge is like putting diesel in a petrol motor car. You don’t know how much damage you do until it’s too late. Believe me, I know! I have done it and it was hilarious until I paid the bill for having my engine cleaned!
Read the rest of the articles:
Product Lifting – Part 1
Product Lifting – Part 2
Product Lifting – Part 3
Product Lifting – Part 4
Product Lifting – Part 5
Product Lifting – Part 6