Meu amigo e colega, Vitaly Solomonov<\/span><\/strong>, dermatologist and expert for NailKnowledge has also provided some more science and the references to support this information – Azul destacado<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n H\u00e1 tr\u00eas estudos que foram publicados e outros est\u00e3o em andamento.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What has been shown is that many \u2018natural oils\u2019 are harmful to the skin and disrupt the skin barrier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The most relevant cause for concern in nail services is regarding UV gel top coats. Both traditional and \u2018tack-free\u2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n EVERY nail professional, surely, must know that the sticky layer remaining after curing is unreacted product? But how many take the time and have the understanding that this must NOT touch the skin during the final cleansing?<\/p>\n\n\n\n H\u00e1 dois m\u00e9todos para fazer isso com seguran\u00e7a:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Quantas vezes voc\u00ea v\u00ea essa almofada sendo esfregada em toda a unha e, portanto, na pele, e a mesma \u00e1rea da almofada sendo usada para cada unha? Isso est\u00e1 depositando produto n\u00e3o curado em toda a pele ao redor!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Top coats sem ader\u00eancia: eles podem n\u00e3o parecer pegajosos e alguns os usam para economizar tempo, pois n\u00e3o fazem a etapa de limpeza final. MAS eles ainda t\u00eam algum produto n\u00e3o curado na superf\u00edcie. Eles DEVEM ser limpos!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Qual \u00e9 a etapa mais comum depois disso? \u00d3leo! Massageie-o em toda a unha e na pele.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ent\u00e3o, aqui est\u00e1 o problema! O produto n\u00e3o curado est\u00e1 sobre a pele, o \u00f3leo \u00e9 aplicado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What the studies have shown is that the oil can act as \u2018penetration enhancers\u2019. This means that they are encouraging the penetration of allergens (placed onto the skin during the service) directly into the living cells of the skin!<\/p>\n\n\n\n De Vitaly:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Em primeiro lugar, gostaria de resumir os resultados dos estudos recentes que Marian mencionou acima. Esses trabalhos trouxeram not\u00edcias realmente inovadoras e podem ter um impacto em v\u00e1rios setores, inclusive no setor de unhas, sob v\u00e1rios pontos de vista. Aqui est\u00e1 a conclus\u00e3o mais importante, entre outras, que podemos tirar dos estudos:<\/p>\n\n\n\n It has been shown that the moisturisers (lotions and oils) that are widely used in baby skin care led to development of food allergy, atopic dermatitis and even asthma in the future life of an infant if they used frequently.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This sounds too scary, doesn’t it? However, let’s get started to sort things out to understand what is going on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The phenomenon that mentioned in the first notion occurs because oils, especially those natural oils like olive, sunflower and many others may partly disrupt the skin barriers and potentiate the permeation of many compounds including allergens. The oils or lipid compounds can dissolve the allergenic substances and make them available to the immune cells in our skin. For instance, the trace neglectable amounts of milk shakes or mixtures for infants can be left on a baby\u2019s skin after the contact with parents\u2019 hands. Then, when we apply the moisturiser, its lipid components encourage the penetration of them into the baby\u2019s skin. If the immune cells recognize the food components to be allergic, the reaction begins, and allergy develops immediately or many years after when a kid becomes an adult. That is why, one of the authors openly declare the following motto: \u201cOlive oil is for food, not for skin care\u201d, despite the current fashion for so called ‘natural’ or ‘organic\u2019 products. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The data can be logically applied for our salon services because a nail technician often deal with potentially allergic substances such as uncured gels or ‘tacky residue’. Thus, the tacky residue being mixed with the oily components of the cosmetic products and easily penetrate the skin. It is important to note, that the components of nail products are not allergens itself. True allergens are always proteins. The components of UV gels, nail polishes or acrylics are not proteins. Now you can ask \u2013 Why are they considered to be potential allergens then? The key word here is ‘potential’. These substances that can be potentially harmful for your skin have their own name \u2013 let me introduce them \u2013 haptens. Haptens are substances of different chemical classes. They usually have a small molecular mass and can penetrate the skin barriers. They are not considered as allergens unless they come into reaction with our own proteins that are found in our skin. In this case they form the compound that become an allergen for us. Most of haptens are ‘oil loving’ molecules, which means that they can be dissolved in oils, which in turn helps them to penetrate the skin where they meet the lipid bilayers of our own Stratum Corneum and mix with them too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Good news is that our skin is not a static structure or just a container that contains some mixtures. It has its structure, and the structure defines the health of our skin. The skin\u2019s major responsibility is to protect us, and it means that all the skin structures do their best to prevent the permeation of almost all the outer substances, even those that are considered as ‘good for us’. Moreover, the human\u2019s skin is ever changing organ and it strives to free our body from harmful or unnecessary substances by pushing out old layers and cells. The latter are just removed from the surface of the skin. It helps to ‘clean up’ the space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the other hand, we have to learn that cosmetic products may have an impact on very important structures in the stratum corneum. The most important part of those structures is lipids\/water ratio (and water retaining substances, which are known as the natural moisturising factor). These two components create the optimal consistency of our skin, where the essential lipids are a key factor since they create the compact barrier. When it becomes too thick the skin is getting scaly and dry. When those lipids become too liquid, the skin becomes too prone to inflammation due to the partially disrupted barriers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n O que \u00e9 importante para n\u00f3s e para nosso trabalho?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1) The frequent use of moisturisers can be harmful. Then the next question \u2013 what is ‘frequent’ use? The answer to the question \u2013 use your moisturiser 1-2 times a day. If you have symptoms of xerotic skin, use the special lotions and as professionals don\u2019t blindly follow the marketing claims. Read the list of ingredients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 2) Oils. It is obvious, that we use the cuticle oils to prevent water evaporation from the area that we worked on, because some procedures (especially those that are well known as harmful \u2013 abrasions, solvents, peelings, etc. lead to water loss and dryness). Dryness is a first signal of disrupted skin barriers and the first step of possible skin inflammation). Always use the cuticle oils after you wash your hands with a soap or liquid soap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 3) Quando o servi\u00e7o estiver conclu\u00eddo e o pr\u00f3ximo conjunto perfeito de lindas unhas estiver criado, pe\u00e7a \u00e0 cliente que lave as m\u00e3os com sabonete antes de aplicar uma lo\u00e7\u00e3o, um creme ou qualquer outro hidratante para evitar um poss\u00edvel surto de alergia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 4) If you work with a ‘tacky layer’, thoroughly remove it out first with acetone or isopropyl alcohol and then always wash with a soap before your next step in service.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 5) Never touch skin with a product and keep your brush and other utensils clean even if you work in gloves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 6) Se voc\u00ea achar que seu hidratante regular causa ressecamento, troque-o por uma f\u00f3rmula e ingredientes mais avan\u00e7ados.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 7) Avoid products with a huge load of essential oils, fragrances, and colorants \u2013 it will help to avoid allergy outbreak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 8) Avoid products that are advertised as ‘natural’ \u2013 that doesn\u2019t mean they are safer. Often, most of them are considered as more allergenic, especially for the vulnerable skin types. Studies confirm this notion.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n Mais uma causa adicional de surtos de alergia em nosso setor!<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/BLOG-THUMBNAIL-53-1024x450.jpg\")
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