To effectively address and prevent product lifting in nail enhancements, it’s essential to grasp the underlying mechanics and contributing factors. By gaining a deeper understanding of why product lifting occurs, nail technicians can implement strategies to enhance adhesion and provide clients with enduring, flawless nails.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
O que \u00e9 Lifting de produtos para unhas?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nProduct lifting occurs when the bond between the nail enhancement product (such as acrylic, gel, gelpolish or dip powder) and the natural nail bed weakens or breaks. This separation leads to gaps, air pockets, or complete detachment of the enhancement from the natural nail. Understanding the root causes of product lifting is pivotal in devising preventive measures and corrective actions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Fatores que contribuem para a eleva\u00e7\u00e3o de produtos para unhas<\/strong>:<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/Factors-contributing-to-nail-product-lifting.jpg\")
Fatores que contribuem para o levantamento de produtos<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nTouching any of the skin around the nail plate during product application<\/strong> This is one of the main problems we see, in the salon and at home, this will always cause \u2018lifting\u2019 because the nail plate is in perpetual motion 24\/7 and the skin moves in the opposite direction, it sloofs off in a vertical direction this stops the product being sealed on the nail plate, water & oils get underneath and the nail enhancement lifts off of the nail plate, this tempts you or your client to pick at it and this in turn creates the perfect environment for pathogens to settle and reproduce and the recovery of that nail can take months!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"o](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/nail-product-lifting-early-stages-1.jpg\")
Levantamento original que, se substitu\u00eddo no prazo, pode ser substitu\u00eddo sem problemas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"Infec\u00e7\u00e3o](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/nail-product-liftin-bacterial-infection.jpg\")
Infec\u00e7\u00e3o bacteriana sob o produto da unha se n\u00e3o for tratada a tempo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nV\u00e1rios outros fatores podem contribuir para a eleva\u00e7\u00e3o do produto para unhas<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n- Prepara\u00e7\u00e3o inadequada das unhas<\/strong>: A falta de prepara\u00e7\u00e3o adequada da unha natural por meio de limpeza, desidrata\u00e7\u00e3o e remo\u00e7\u00e3o do excesso de oleosidade pode prejudicar a ades\u00e3o.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- T\u00e9cnicas de aplica\u00e7\u00e3o incorretas<\/strong>: A aplica\u00e7\u00e3o de produtos para unhas com muita espessura, de forma desigual ou apressada pode resultar em ar preso, m\u00e1 ades\u00e3o e eventual levantamento.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Rea\u00e7\u00f5es al\u00e9rgicas<\/strong>: Some clients might be allergic to certain chemicals present in nail products, causing irritation and lifting due to their body’s immune response.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- M\u00e3os na \u00e1gua<\/strong> Using a hard nail products on weak nails that are always in water is detrimental to product adhesion because the nail plate is full of water it swells up & when this water evaporates the nail plate shrinks \u2013 this puts the product under continuous pressure –<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Ambiental<\/strong> Fatores<\/strong>: A exposi\u00e7\u00e3o \u00e0 umidade ou a outros elementos externos durante ou ap\u00f3s a aplica\u00e7\u00e3o pode comprometer a liga\u00e7\u00e3o entre o aprimoramento e a unha natural.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Formato e comprimento das unhas<\/strong>: As unhas com curvatura extrema ou comprimento excessivo podem sofrer maior estresse no refor\u00e7o, levando ao levantamento.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Diferenciando o levantamento de produtos de outros problemas<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIt’s important to distinguish product lifting from other nail-related concerns, such as chipping, peeling, or breakage. Product lifting specifically refers to the detachment of the enhancement from the nail bed, while other issues might involve issues with the enhancement itself or the natural nail structure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ao compreender esses aspectos, os t\u00e9cnicos de unhas podem implementar estrat\u00e9gias preventivas durante os processos de prepara\u00e7\u00e3o e aplica\u00e7\u00e3o das unhas. As se\u00e7\u00f5es subsequentes deste artigo se aprofundar\u00e3o no reconhecimento dos sinais de eleva\u00e7\u00e3o do produto, na compreens\u00e3o de suas causas e na explora\u00e7\u00e3o de t\u00e9cnicas para prevenir e controlar esse problema de forma eficaz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Nail Product lifting \u2013 Sounds Simple Enough, Right?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nMas o que causa isso?<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Cut\u00edcula na placa ungueal <\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- \u00d3leo ou sujeira na placa ungueal<\/a> <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Recontamina\u00e7\u00e3o da placa ungueal ap\u00f3s a limpeza <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Uso excessivo de primer <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Incorrect use of base coat <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Produto n\u00e3o curado <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Placa ungueal inst\u00e1vel
a. roedor de unhas
b. placa ungueal lixada muito fina <\/li>\n\n\n\n - Roedores de unhas
a. Placa ungueal insuficiente para colocar o produto
b. Uso de dicas <\/li>\n\n\n\n - Incorrect size and fit of artificial nail tips
a. Old glue<\/li>\n\n\n\n - Coloca\u00e7\u00e3o incorreta do formul\u00e1rio
a. Prego plano, coloca\u00e7\u00e3o de forma curva
b. Prego curvo, coloca\u00e7\u00e3o de forma plana <\/li>\n\n\n\n - Contato do produto com a pele durante a aplica\u00e7\u00e3o <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Incorrect mix ratio L&P
a. Aplica\u00e7\u00e3o irregular
i. Deixar as soleiras das portas no PNF
ii. Product running into the lateral nail folds <\/li>\n\n\n\n - N\u00e3o usar o sistema correto para o tipo espec\u00edfico de unha <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Levantamento de bolso
a. Trauma
b. Belisc\u00e3o
c. Fraqueza da placa ungueal <\/li>\n\n\n\n - Nail plate affected by Hyperhidrosis (Commonly affected areas include the: armpits. palms of your hands, possibly nail units) <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Placing product underneath the eponychium (after excessive efile manicure) <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sistemas de mistura<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Let\u2019s have a Look at them in More Detail<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nCut\u00edcula na placa ungueal <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Cut\u00edcula](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Cuticle-on-nail-plate.jpg\")
Cut\u00edcula na placa ungueal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA cut\u00edcula<\/a> \u00e9 feito de tecido el\u00e1stico n\u00e3o vivo e fica preso ao placa ungueal<\/a> cells as they come through the eponychium. It is one of the four guardian seals. It protects the nail matrix from pathogens that we come across in our daily lives, and that\u2019s a good thing. However, when it comes to our artificial nail products, it can cause real problems. We need to remove it com cuidado<\/strong>! It doesn\u2019t need aggressive removal with a drill bit rotating at 20.000 RPM. If you think that\u2019s ok, try it on the bonnet of your neighbor\u2019s (new) car, and see what happens! Use your favorite good-quality nail oil & a curette, and you’re done in a couple of minutes. <\/p>\n\n\n\nFigura 2a <\/strong>shows a nail plate with cuticle on. There is no light reflection in the cuticle. We all work with lights so seeing it should be no problem. If you can\u2019t see it, buy a loupe or some glasses \ud83d\ude0a<\/p>\n\n\n\nFigura 2b<\/strong> shows a nail plate without cuticle \u2013 the light reflects through the whole length of the nail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Compara\u00e7\u00e3o](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Light-reflecting-on-nail-comparison-with-and-without-cuticle.jpg\")
Light reflecting on nail comparison – with and without cuticle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\u00d3leo, minerais ou sujeira (ainda) na placa ungueal<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nDurante os lockdowns da Covid-19, ficamos todos entusiasmados com o fato de podermos voltar ao trabalho. Em muitos pa\u00edses, grupos de especialistas em unhas cederam seu tempo gratuitamente para ajudar os sal\u00f5es a encontrar maneiras de trabalhar seguindo pr\u00e1ticas seguras. A pr\u00e1tica de higiene era alta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Washing hands with soap & water is one of the most effective ways to remove oil, minerals, and dirt from hands (feet) and nails. It takes almost no time at all \u2013 we should always do it, especially at the start of our service.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
When you have finished removing the cuticle, and shaped the free edge with your file, let your client wash their hands novamente<\/em> with soap, water, and a soft nail brush, dry them well, and continue with your favorite nail plate cleanser. 2 minutes now save 30 minutes of problem-solving in about a week’s time! Allow yourself those couple of minutes. I promise that you will be rewarded with much less product lifting \u2013 good for you, good for your client.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Unhas](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dirty-nails.jpg\")
Unhas sujas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n*Don\u2019t forget, nail dust or dust from filing off artificial nail products can cause lifting problems at the free edge too! All the more reason for a quick wash after filing.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"P\u00f3](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Nail-file-dust-under-free-edge.jpg\")
P\u00f3 de lixa de unha sob a borda livre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nRecontamina\u00e7\u00e3o da placa ungueal ap\u00f3s a limpeza<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nThis is an interesting one that we don\u2019t always realize is happening. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sometimes working with artificial nail products takes time. Maybe you need to place forms and you’re not fast at that yet. Or the form got stuck on the nail plate. Maybe you are taking your time creating the right structure with a builder base coat. Whatever it may be, it does not matter. We don\u2019t all work at the speed of light, and all of us work hard to improve our speed. Maybe our client is having an emotional day, maybe they rubbed their face after all your prep work. All these things can re-contaminate a nail plate after you have prepped it. If things take you a little longer, do one hand first. When it is complete, start the second hand. That way you greatly reduce the chances of it happening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Uso excessivo de primer<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nOs primers t\u00eam uma fun\u00e7\u00e3o no mundo das unhas: eles ajudam a aderir os produtos \u00e0s placas ungueais problem\u00e1ticas. De fato, alguns produtos para unhas artificiais precisam deles para aderir adequadamente. Tudo come\u00e7a com a condi\u00e7\u00e3o da unha natural. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Removing the upper layer of the nail plate before primer application will make the nail plate unstable & contribute to possible allergies.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- ALL primers contain acrylates or cyano-acrylates of some kind.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
Os problemas se agravam se curarmos os primers de forma incorreta ou se os usarmos em excesso.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alguns primers secam ao ar e outros s\u00e3o curados em uma estufa. L\u00e2mpada UV\/LED<\/a>. Certifique-se de sempre ler as instru\u00e7\u00f5es do fabricante antes de us\u00e1-los.<\/p>\n\n\n\nUsing too much primer or more than recommended, doesn\u2019t improve adhesion:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Inunda a placa ungueal, que fica muito \u00famida para a ades\u00e3o adequada.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Pode causar queimaduras.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Contribui para as alergias.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
Importante<\/strong>: If we remove the upper layers of the nail plate all of the time instead of just removing the shine, we start to place our product on the \u2018unstable\u2019 nail plate cells that are the middle layers of the nail plate. This will always result in product lifting.<\/p>\n\n\n\nUso incorreto da camada de base<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nA Base Coat \u00e9 a parte mais incompreendida e maltratada de nosso servi\u00e7o de unhas. Mais importante ainda, \u00e9 a parte mais importante de nosso servi\u00e7o de unhas!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Deixe-me explicar: <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The ONLY layer of your artificial nail product or nail coating, even nail varnish that touches the natural nail is the base coat. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nSe a camada de base n\u00e3o aderir bem \u00e0 unha natural, voc\u00ea poder\u00e1 dizer adeus a todo o revestimento ou aprimoramento da unha nos pr\u00f3ximos dias. O levantamento de produtos ser\u00e1 inevit\u00e1vel.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nIn the beginning, Base Gels were high-adhesion, smooth, thin viscosity products. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Bons promotores de ades\u00e3o s\u00e3o alguns dos componentes de base mais caros em nosso setor de unhas; se voc\u00ea adicion\u00e1-los a um gel de constru\u00e7\u00e3o, voc\u00ea os perder\u00e1 no processo. massa<\/a> Portanto, se voc\u00ea usar um revestimento de base de constru\u00e7\u00e3o multifuncional, ser\u00e1 essencial usar um primer ou um adesivo.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nBase Coat Gels<\/a> are an efficient way to create maximum adhesion to the natural nail. In 2022, you can apply a high-quality base coat without roughing up or buffing the natural nail plate. Just using a high-quality nail plate cleanser will ensure that the integrity of the natural nail is maintained when artificial nail product coatings are used.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSome base coats achieve better adhesion if you use a primer or bonder – sometimes using a primer will also make the soak-off process easier. Some primers can and will extend the life of your soak-off product. It\u2019s really important to not try and create your own recipe. Use the primer from the same company that provided your base coat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Primers are specially formulated to match a system. Don\u2019t be fooled into thinking the primer from company A will match the base coat from company B. You could end up cross-linking problem ingredients and end up with less adhesion instead of a better adhesion or, even worse, an allergy. Leave the chemistry to the chemists!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It\u2019s important to realize that all base coats are composed differently. Some are made to soak off, and some are made to stay on the natural nail for longer. Be aware if you do a cosmetic pedicure that you will need a more durable base coat since your client is not likely to return to have her toenails done in 14 days. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let\u2019s recap:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- If your base coat needs to be cured for 10 seconds, don\u2019t cure it for 30 seconds.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Your color coat will only adhere to the base coat, control your base coat application \u2013 use your light to check that you have coated the entire nail plate.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Use the color coat that matches the base coat. Otherwise, the inhibition layer in the base coat could adversely affect the color coat adhesion.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sempre cubra a borda livre da unha com a camada de base.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Mantenha sua camada de base longe da pele.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- If your base coat has a nail life of 14 days \u2013 remove the product after 14 days, even if it looks good to the human eye the product will already be breaking down. Infections from White Superficial Onychomycosis or Pseudomonas Aeruginosa become a real possibility since both are part of our natural microbiomes (they already exist on our hands & feet)and are opportunistic. This means that, given the chance, they will develop in or on the natural nail plate.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sempre lave as m\u00e3os com \u00e1gua e sab\u00e3o e seque bem antes da aplica\u00e7\u00e3o da camada de base (isso remover\u00e1 a maioria dos agentes patog\u00eanicos da superf\u00edcie, como WOS e PA)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Do your PREP and or PEP according to the manufacturer\u2019s instructions.\n
\n- Don\u2019t rough up the nail plate with a file before applying your base coat, use a good quality nail plate cleanser instead, nail plate integrity is everything for a long-lasting service.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- If you want a longer-lasting base coat \u2013 buy one.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Quando sua cliente tiver placas ungueais flex\u00edveis, use um revestimento flex\u00edvel para unhas tamb\u00e9m como camada de base.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- If your client has (open) beaded ridge nail plates a soak-off product might not be smart. Use a thin layer of Liquid & Powder that you can rebalance instead \u2013 or a thin layer of an Acrygel that you can rebalance – your client will thank you for it.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- If you want a soak-off product, make sure you soak it off in time and according to the manufacturer\u2019s instructions. 10 mins = not 5 mins \ud83d\ude0a if your base coat adheres well to the natural nail, the only thing you will gain from saving 5 mins is 5 months of adhesion problems.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Certifique-se de que voc\u00ea sabe o que o cliente espera que o revestimento ou o aprimoramento de suas unhas aguente e escolha a camada de base de acordo com as expectativas e o estilo de vida dele.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Produto n\u00e3o curado<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nUncured product is a problem because we don\u2019t often see the problem it can cause until later (24\/48hrs later). Also, I have yet to meet a colleague that has x-ray vision! Sometimes it takes a few hours for the upper layer of your nail coating to collapse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let\u2019s have a look at the problems that can occur from under-curing: <\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Rugas e bolhas<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Descascamento<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Rugas e bolhas<\/strong>: Geralmente acontece com cores escuras, preto, azul escuro, verde escuro etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Enrugamento](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Wrinkling-uv-gel-polish.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- O produto \u00e9 aplicado com muita espessura\n
\n- A luz UV\/LED n\u00e3o consegue penetrar na cor. Quando isso acontece, a camada superior do produto \u00e9 curada, mas, como a energia UV n\u00e3o consegue penetrar mais profundamente, a metade inferior do produto permanece fluida. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Apply 2 thin layers instead of 1 thick layer \u2013 don\u2019t worry about blotching, the 2nd<\/sup>O casaco cobrir\u00e1 isso. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Check that your UV\/LED lamp still works as well as it should. You can test this by placing some product on a form, curing it, then lifting it to see that the product is hard all the way through.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A l\u00e2mpada UV\/LED n\u00e3o \u00e9 compat\u00edvel com o produto\n
\n- Use a luz UV\/LED adequada ao seu produto.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Your UV\/LED light is one of the most critical pieces of equipment in your salon. Nanometers are everything when it comes to product cure but even the best UV energy has trouble penetrating thick, dark colors, leading to product lifting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Um dos melhores investimentos que voc\u00ea faz \u00e9 na l\u00e2mpada que combina com seu produto. O pr\u00f3ximo melhor investimento \u00e9 em suas pr\u00f3prias habilidades de controle do produto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Descascamento ou lascamento: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Lascas](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Chipping-nail-enhancement.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- O posicionamento da m\u00e3o na l\u00e2mpada n\u00e3o \u00e9 como deveria ser\n
\n- Check to see if the placement of your client\u2019s hand is as it should be. Thumbs have always been a problem, but nowadays manufacturers create UV\/LED lights with extra Light Emitting Diodes (the little lights) where the thumb should be. <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A placa ungueal n\u00e3o foi preparada adequadamente antes da aplica\u00e7\u00e3o do produto\n
\n- \u00c0s vezes, esquecemos de limpar a borda livre com nosso limpador. Tamb\u00e9m pode ser que haja algum p\u00f3 de lima sob a borda livre. Reserve um minuto para virar a m\u00e3o de cabe\u00e7a para baixo antes da aplica\u00e7\u00e3o do produto, s\u00f3 para ter certeza. Quando sua cliente lavar as m\u00e3os com \u00e1gua e sab\u00e3o antes do PEP ou PREP, d\u00ea a ela uma escova de unhas para limpar bem a borda livre. Seque bem e certifique-se de cobrir a borda livre n\u00e3o apenas com a camada de base, mas tamb\u00e9m com a cor.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Placas de pregos inst\u00e1veis<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- L\u00e2mina ungueal muito fina\n
\n- Isso cria uma placa ungueal inst\u00e1vel na borda livre, mas tamb\u00e9m um grande problema quando a unha cresce.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"Placa](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Overfiled-nail-plate.png\")
Fig. 5A Observa-se um anel de lima na l\u00e2mina ungueal com uma l\u00e2mina ungueal estriada atr\u00e1s dele e uma l\u00e2mina ungueal mais fina na frente. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Seta amarela: Uma crista normal na placa ungueal, n\u00e3o \u00e9 bonita, mas podemos lidar com ela.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Seta azul: Placa ungueal arrancada (as setas mostram a mesma posi\u00e7\u00e3o em um \u00e2ngulo diferente). O problema aqui n\u00e3o \u00e9 apenas o fato de o produto se levantar, mas tamb\u00e9m o fato de estar desfiado. Tamb\u00e9m \u00e9 poss\u00edvel levantar a bolsa aqui se colocarmos o produto nela agora.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Seta laranja: Placa ungueal arrancada (as setas mostram a mesma posi\u00e7\u00e3o em um \u00e2ngulo diferente) <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Seta vermelha: A quantidade de placa ungueal preenchida e fina que precisa crescer antes que voc\u00ea possa fazer qualquer coisa com produtos para unhas artificiais.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Product lifting is almost guaranteed and worse still, this client probably wants these ugly nails covered so the look amazing even if they are not. Explain how you\u2019re going to solve the problem and why putting product on this nail plate is not a smart thing to do. The chances of a nail plate infection caused by WSO or PA is waiting to happen and any product you do apply will likely lift. That would be a waste of your time and a waste of your client’s money.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Rings-of-fire-on-fingernails.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Seta verde: Danos de arquivamento antigos crescendo<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Seta amarela: Dano de arquivo mais antigo crescendo<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Seta vermelha: A quantidade de tempo entre as manuten\u00e7\u00f5es das unhas \u00e9 vis\u00edvel. Se essa placa ungueal cresce a uma taxa de 1 mm a cada 10 dias, ent\u00e3o houve um intervalo de aproximadamente 25 dias entre as visitas ao sal\u00e3o de beleza.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Roedores de unhas<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- A melhor coisa que voc\u00ea pode fazer por um mordedor de unhas \u00e9 dar a ele um frasco de \u00f3leo para unhas e pele. Fa\u00e7a com que ele o use sempre que o dedo estiver na boca\n
\n- Nail biters only have minimal layers of nail plate left \u2013 remember the nail plate is in perpetual motion 24\/7. If you have been to the seaside arcade with the penny machines that push the top coin into the drop tray \u2013 the nail plate cells work in the same way. Like an escalator in a store. Your product will always lift somewhere, and your client will always rip the rest off with their teeth. <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"Unhas](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Nail-biter-nails-treated.jpg\")
Figura 5: <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe nails in Fig 5 took 11 months to treat with lots of quality oil & lotion. But now these nail plates are ready for any product or no product.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/nail-biters.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Placa ungueal insuficiente para colocar o produto
- Os roedores de unhas n\u00e3o param de roer <\/li><\/ul><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Fig. 5c: tentar colocar produtos para unhas em alguns mil\u00edmetros da placa ungueal resultar\u00e1 em rasgos e em um trabalho de reparo intermin\u00e1vel.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Fig 5d: recovered nail plate ready for product, the client can still use more oil to help the proximal nail folds recover from keratinization, but the progress is obvious, now you won\u2019t have a problem with product lifting, and the client can see the advantages of not biting \ud83d\ude0a<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Usar dicas em seu roedor de unhas:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nI know a lot of nail techs do use tips on nail biting clients but try to resist the pressure, don\u2019t be afraid he\/she will go to another salon, explain the advantages of not doing it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As pontas s\u00e3o uma \u00f3tima ferramenta no mundo das unhas, mas quando o roedor de unhas coloca os dentes embaixo delas, elas simplesmente as arrancam, o que causa ainda mais danos \u00e0 unha natural que voc\u00ea est\u00e1 tentando deixar linda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Tips need glue to adhere to the natural nail, glue contains cyano-acrylates that are allergens if they come into contact with the skin and the chances of that happening with 1\/3 of a nail plate to work with is high.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Also, all that damaged stratum corneum around the proximal nail fold \u2013 nightmare for perfect product placement with lifting being the inevitable result.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Oil, oil, and more oil \u2013 give it 6 weeks then strut your nail stuff!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Remember – A temporary fix may look good for a day or 2 but is not a real fix. Solve the nail plate problem first and you will have a client in your salon for life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Tamanho e ajuste incorretos das pontas das unhas artificiais<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nIt’s important to choose the right size of tip for the nail of your client, but If in doubt use a flexible nail tip that is straight. Apply it only to the free edge of the nail (unless of course it\u2019s a full cover tip \u2013 even then fit is really important). <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Nail-tip-application.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIf the tip is too big, you will create a flat C curve; if it’s too small, you will create a \u2018staircase\u2019 effect at the lateral nail fold and the free edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
I\u2019m going to keep this simple \u2013 Look for perfection training, all respectable brands have educators that do this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cola de ponta<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nTodas as colas ou resinas de ponta s\u00e3o feitas de ou cont\u00eam cianoacrilato de etila ou cianoacrilatos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Cyanoacrylates are a family of strong, fast-acting adhesives with industrial, medical, and household uses. They are derived from ethyl cyanoacrylate and related esters. The cyanoacrylate group in the monomer rapidly polymerizes in the presence of water to form long, strong chains. They have some minor toxicity.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Ethyl cyanoacrylates are also used in forensics for lifting fingerprints when traditional fingerprint powder cannot be used, for instance on very delicate items. This happens in an enclosed chamber that is heated to allow the ethyl cyanoacrylate to turn into fumes and so show the hidden fingerprint.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- As colas de consumo prontas para uso n\u00e3o s\u00e3o adequadas para aplica\u00e7\u00f5es cosm\u00e9ticas ou m\u00e9dicas para m\u00e3os\/p\u00e9s, pois n\u00e3o s\u00e3o de grau cosm\u00e9tico ou m\u00e9dico, o que significa que suas formula\u00e7\u00f5es de solvente e cianoacrilato n\u00e3o foram avaliadas e otimizadas para reduzir a toxicidade e evitar rea\u00e7\u00f5es al\u00e9rgicas ou a corpos estranhos.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Basically, they are all super glues, and all contain allergens \u2013 Tenha muito cuidado para n\u00e3o deix\u00e1-los entrar em contato com a pele<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nEthyl cyanoacrylate and cyanoacrylates have a limited shelf life. Solvents are added to the mix to help the adhesive solidify quickly. When you open a bottle of nail tip adhesive the solvents are evaporating, and the quality of the adhesive will reduce very quickly. If you don\u2019t use it often, buy smaller bottles of 5ml and that will reduce wastage and frustration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cola antiga<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nNail glue has a limited shelf life. The older it gets, the less likely it is to form a sufficient bond to hold the nail tip in place. This affects its \u2018stickiness\u2019, and your nail tip extension will not last.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Tamb\u00e9m \u00e9 importante lembrar que os adesivos de unha t\u00eam uma vida \u00fatil limitada, mesmo quando s\u00e3o novos. Esse \u00e9 o motivo pelo qual voc\u00ea deve aplicar as pontas de unha somente na borda livre da unha, 2 mm = 2 semanas de crescimento para uma unha natural m\u00e9dia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
A estrutura do produto para unhas artificiais \u00e9 o que manter\u00e1 o aprimoramento da extens\u00e3o no lugar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Depois de aplicar as pontas, n\u00e3o remova o excesso de p\u00f3 com \u00e1lcool ou limpador de unhas, pois isso acelerar\u00e1 a quebra do adesivo e\/ou enfraquecer\u00e1 a ponta de unha de pl\u00e1stico. \u00c9 melhor simplesmente escov\u00e1-la.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Se voc\u00ea n\u00e3o preparar a unha natural corretamente, sempre ocorrer\u00e1 o levantamento da bolsa que, por sua vez, se tornar\u00e1 o local perfeito para a reprodu\u00e7\u00e3o de pat\u00f3genos residentes ou transit\u00f3rios, como a pseudomonas aeruginosa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Certifique-se de que sua cliente entenda que, com as extens\u00f5es de pontas de unhas, ela sempre precisar\u00e1 usar luvas ao realizar qualquer tarefa que envolva outros solventes e\/ou \u00e1gua. \u00c9 por isso que as pontas de unhas n\u00e3o s\u00e3o ideais para clientes que trabalham em bares ou em outros setores de servi\u00e7os.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Coloca\u00e7\u00e3o incorreta do formul\u00e1rio<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nA coloca\u00e7\u00e3o da forma \u00e9 algo que voc\u00ea precisa praticar e aperfei\u00e7oar. Depois de domin\u00e1-la, voc\u00ea nunca mais usar\u00e1 uma ponta de unha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Nail-form.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nForms have wings and lines. These are to ensure a perfect fit. Most brands have their own forms, all a little different in shape but all with the same goal in mind. Perfect form fitting creates a stable enhancement that fits the nail and the nail unit of your client. You can then place the artificial nail or extension with perfect alignment and balance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Os problemas come\u00e7am quando voc\u00ea come\u00e7a com uma unha plana e n\u00e3o ajusta a forma para corresponder. A forma precisa se encaixar perfeitamente sob<\/strong> the free edge of the natural nail, and you should create the C-Curve with the nail product. (See Picture E) If you leave a gap (because you are trying to create the C-Curve with your form) and the nail product leaks through the gap, even water from something simple like your client taking a shower will cause the product to lift in a matter of hours. (See picture D) <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Coloca\u00e7\u00e3o](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Improper-form-fitting.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIf you start with a curved nail and the form does not properly fit, the product will not cure as well as it should. Apply the product in thinner layers, and cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
With practice you will achieve this \u2013 see picture E<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Posicionamento](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Proper-form-fitting.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nA aplica\u00e7\u00e3o da forma requer pr\u00e1tica. Pergunte ao fornecedor da marca sobre o treinamento de perfei\u00e7\u00e3o e a coloca\u00e7\u00e3o da forma. Quando voc\u00ea acertar, n\u00e3o ter\u00e1 problemas com o levantamento do produto nas dobras das unhas ou na borda livre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Contato do produto com a pele durante a aplica\u00e7\u00e3o<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nAs c\u00e9lulas da l\u00e2mina ungueal s\u00e3o formadas na matriz e seguem seu caminho ao longo do epon\u00edquio (onde a cut\u00edcula est\u00e1 presa). Em seguida, elas saem sob o PNF, onde s\u00e3o vistas como a l\u00e2mina ungueal normal. (A figura F mostra essa a\u00e7\u00e3o em movimento)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Isso acontece 24 horas por dia, 7 dias por semana! Doen\u00e7as ou gravidez podem desacelerar ou acelerar esse movimento.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If our product application is not as secure as it should be, maybe you\u2019re in a hurry, maybe you didn\u2019t bring your glasses to work or maybe the product you are using has a thin viscosity \u2013 the product might then drip into the lateral nail fold and become attached to your skin. (Figure G shows this)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Na MasterClass 1.2, voc\u00ea pode refrescar sua mem\u00f3ria sobre esse assunto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let\u2019s have a look at pictures F & G<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Crescimento](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Nail-Growth-and-product-lifting.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIn picture F, you see 2 blue arrows; In picture G, two red arrows. So now imagine that they are in the same place in the lateral nail fold. F is in perpetual motion and G is static, the gel polish is hard and can only move with the nail plate. The gel polish that is in the nail grove will come loose and lift away, creating an opening. Water, oil, lotion, pathogens… Anything and everything can get between your gel polish and the nail plate! Product lifting will happen, and possibly an infection to boot!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u00c9 preciso muita pr\u00e1tica para colocar o produto perfeitamente ao redor do PNF e das dobras laterais das unhas. Portanto, invista em si mesmo e dedique um tempo para aprender. Se voc\u00ea conseguir dominar as linhas retas com verniz para unhas, voc\u00ea se tornar\u00e1 um especialista em linhas retas com esmalte em gel. Dominar isso far\u00e1 com que voc\u00ea seja mais eficiente no sal\u00e3o.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Propor\u00e7\u00e3o incorreta de mistura de l\u00edquido e p\u00f3 (sistema de unhas de acr\u00edlico) <\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nO mon\u00f4mero l\u00edquido e o p\u00f3 acr\u00edlico combinados formam o sistema perfeito de aprimoramento de unhas. Uma vez dominado, \u00e9 um produto realmente incr\u00edvel.
Voc\u00ea pode us\u00e1-lo para: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Reconstru\u00e7\u00e3o da unha do p\u00e9<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Reconstru\u00e7\u00e3o da placa ungueal<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Extens\u00f5es<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Reequil\u00edbrio <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- It\u2019s a reliable soak-off base for any system<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A camada de base perfeita para placas de unhas com sulcos <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Esculpindo a perfei\u00e7\u00e3o<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Endless possibilities in nail art <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Ele tem desvantagens: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Odores de mon\u00f4meros l\u00edquidos <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A falta de ventila\u00e7\u00e3o pode causar coriza, nariz e dores de cabe\u00e7a<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Too wet \u2013 can trigger allergies<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Too dry \u2013 your enhancement will not adhere well to the natural nail<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- In the old days \u2013 it was hard to file<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Part\u00edculas finas de poeira <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
If you haven\u2019t mastered L&P, product lifting becomes a problem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Arquivamento excessivo<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Basicamente, a aplica\u00e7\u00e3o desigual do L&P sempre resultar\u00e1 em eleva\u00e7\u00e3o do produto ou da bolsa. Voc\u00ea dever\u00e1 lixar at\u00e9 que fique uniforme. Eventualmente, a limagem atrav\u00e9s do realce \u00e9 uma possibilidade real, e a limagem atrav\u00e9s da placa ungueal tamb\u00e9m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using an acrylic brush you are not in control of, and a product that is too dry, may leave \u2018doorsteps\u2019 at the PNF. (see the red arrow in picture L)
A l\u00e2mina ungueal no PNF \u00e9 a mais macia e as c\u00e9lulas da l\u00e2mina ungueal precisam sobreviver intactas por 5 meses. O lixamento excessivo nesse local n\u00e3o s\u00f3 danificar\u00e1 o seu aumento, mas tamb\u00e9m a l\u00e2mina ungueal, e o produto se levantar\u00e1. Da mesma forma, se a forma n\u00e3o se encaixar bem, a parede lateral do aumento n\u00e3o ser\u00e1 forte (consulte a figura L, a seta amarela) e a borda livre ser\u00e1 irregular e fraca (consulte a figura L, a seta laranja)<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"erros](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/msitakes-in-application.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/proper-sculpting-will-help-avoid-product-lifting.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhen the form is placed well and you have control of your L&P, you will not need to file excessively at the nail folds and your apex will be so strong the nail will last and last. (see figure K red, yellow and orange arrow)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Produto muito \u00famido<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Se o cord\u00e3o de L&P estiver muito \u00famido, o produto que escorrer para as dobras laterais da unha (como no exemplo do esmalte em gel na figura F) far\u00e1 com que o L&P se levante. Como os sistemas de L&P secam ao ar livre em vez de curar em uma l\u00e2mpada, voc\u00ea tem mais tempo para puxar e segurar suavemente a pele nas dobras das unhas durante a coloca\u00e7\u00e3o do produto e manter o controle do produto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
One more important reason for product lifting with L&P systems is shrinkage. L&P that is too wet will air dry at the wrong speed. When this happens, the excess monomer evaporates, the remaining polymer chains get pulled together, and the product tightens on the natural nail. This will not only cause pocket lifting that will be the perfect place for nasty pathogens, but it can actually be painful and heat will be generated by the chemical reaction caused by the polymers as they dry. Your client will experience this as uncomfortable pressure, maybe even intense heat hours later, and the enhancement will not last.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Practice, practice, a little patience, and lots of \u2018bead making\u2019 on practice sheets will ensure that you can create the perfect enhancement that will last longer than any other. A natural nail overlay with L&P will not only look stunning but, when placed well, it will wear as no other, and the rebalance will be done in 30mins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
N\u00e3o usar o sistema correto para o tipo espec\u00edfico de unha<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nLet\u2019s go back to figure F. Remember the nail plate cells and their movement?<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/nail-plate-cells-and-their-movement.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMarian Newman fala na Masterclass One sobre como a espessura da placa ungueal \u00e9 determinada pelo comprimento da matriz. As c\u00e9lulas mais novas da l\u00e2mina ungueal s\u00e3o mais macias, n\u00e3o muito maduras, se voc\u00ea preferir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Agora imagine que voc\u00ea tenha uma unha amarga, com placas de unhas finas para come\u00e7ar, que n\u00e3o resiste a mastigar o restante da placa ungueal. N\u00e3o h\u00e1 nada de bom em colocar um produto de escultura duro nessa base muito fraca! O motivo pelo qual n\u00e3o vai dar certo \u00e9 que a base (a placa ungueal) tem camadas incompletas mastigadas e est\u00e1 sempre em movimento. O levantamento da bolsa ser\u00e1 inevit\u00e1vel, com todas as coisas desagrad\u00e1veis que v\u00eam com ele. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Uma placa ungueal fraca precisa de um produto flex\u00edvel aplicado em uma camada fina (se<\/em> you are going to use a product). I would recommend first recovering the nail biter’s nail plate before considering any product application. But, if you must, maybe for a wedding or a special occasion, use a clear fiber gel (figure J:)<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Fiber-gel.png\")
Figure J: Fiber gel really does contain fibers \ud83d\ude0a<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nYou can create simple small nails with a special effect nail varnish topcoat and your client will love you forever. He or she will have great looking nails with no problems, and you will be able to see through the product spotting any problems with lifting before things get out of hand. Get him or her to come back after the occasion \u2013 check that the nail coating is still intact, and no problems are occurring – if it\u2019s not remove it!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
O treinamento, bem como a manuten\u00e7\u00e3o das m\u00e3os e das unhas, \u00e9 importante aqui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Levantamento de bolso<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Trauma<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Belisc\u00e3o<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Fraqueza da placa ungueal<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Infec\u00e7\u00f5es<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Levantamento de produtos<\/strong>No contexto dos cuidados com as unhas, refere-se \u00e0 separa\u00e7\u00e3o ou descolamento de produtos para unhas, como acr\u00edlico ou gel, da placa ungueal natural. Esse problema ocorre quando o produto aplicado na unha perde a ader\u00eancia \u00e0 unha natural, resultando em lacunas entre o produto e a unha natural ou at\u00e9 mesmo no descolamento total. O levantamento do produto pode ser causado por diferentes fatores, alguns dos quais podem ser causados (n\u00e3o intencionalmente) por n\u00f3s mesmos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Pocket-lifting-nails.jpg\")
Nosso revestimentos de unhas<\/a> pode se levantar nas bordas e no meio da unha.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/pocket-lifting-on-a-nail.jpg\")
Levantamento de bolso<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nTrauma<\/strong>
If you knock the enhancement or nail coating while shopping, or while cleaning (even if you are wearing gloves) then the impact can cause the product to lift, and you won\u2019t always see it from the outside. This pocket of air between the enhancement & the nail plate creates the perfect place for opportunistic pathogens. The problem is that because we have created gorgeous nails we don\u2019t always see on time whats going on underneath \u2013 so a good rule would be, when in doubt, if you know you have knocked your nail remove the product to check if and what damage has been done and repair it as soon as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\nLevantamento de bolso<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nPocket lifting occurs when the nail product separates from the nail plate but not around the edge. If you are wearing a clear product its visible but if you have created something amazing or using dark colors \u2013 you can miss it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/nail-pocket-lifting.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIf it\u2019s a natural overlay or a long extension \u2013 the result is the same, the nail enhancement is detached from the nail plate in the center \u2013 we can see it on the left nail because the enhancement is clear, on the right nail we only see it because we are rebalancing the enhancement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Belisc\u00e3o<\/strong>
\u2018Pinching\u2019 is something we do in competition to create the perfect C-Curve, it needs to be done well and with care because if we \u2018pinch\u2019 an artificial nail product and the nail product is too hard, product lifting becomes a real possibility. 30 years ago, pinching was the \u2018norm\u2019 and in competition is still a useful tool if you have been trained well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Competition-French-in-Progress.jpg\")
Concurso franc\u00eas em andamento<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe C-Curve is pinched after product placement of the white to produce the perfect \u2018C\u2019 (This is done after the cover color is cured).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Today our products are more controllable and \u2018building\u2019 an apex and producing a C-Curve is easier if your coloca\u00e7\u00e3o de formul\u00e1rios<\/em> is well done but here also the rule is \u2018product control is everything\u2019 Done well you can produce gorgeous, long lasting nail extensions in the salon.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWhen you put the two side by side you see the difference but more importantly both effects are achieved without any pocket lifting \u2013 Product control, control of your pinching tool and good instructions are so important, you cannot achieve this kind of artificial nail without a good education and hours of training \u2013 but when you have mastered it, there is no looking back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Franch-Manicure.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nInstabilidade ou fraqueza da placa ungueal<\/strong>
If you \u2018buff\u2019 the natural nail before applying nail coatings of any sort, then, per definition, you are weakening the nail plate. If you also remove the skin from around the nail plate in the lateral nail folds & proximal nail fold, then you destabilize the entire nail plate. This creates an instability, a bit like building a house on sand instead of a solid foundation. Built on sand, the house will show signs of weakness or collapse, build on proper strong foundations the house will remain standing for as long as the building materials allow. The same is true for the nail plate when it \u2018carries\u2019 a nail coating. When the nail is intact and its surrounding seals are still in place the nail coating will remail attached to the nail plate for as long as the nail coating is made to last, if we remove any or all of the essential parts the nail plate becomes unstable and our nail coating will per definition become instable and weak.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSometimes we get a little too enthusiastic when we are told to \u2018remove the shine\u2019 from our nail plate with a file. It\u2019s better to think about replacing the buffer<\/a> lixe com um bom limpador de placa ungueal. Seu produto aderir\u00e1 bem \u00e0 unha natural e a placa ungueal permanecer\u00e1 forte. Lembre-se de que a placa ungueal tem, em m\u00e9dia, apenas 0,380 mm de espessura. N\u00e3o \u00e9 necess\u00e1rio lixar muito para remover n\u00e3o apenas a camada superior, mas remover muito influenciar\u00e1 definitivamente sua estabilidade e convidar\u00e1 os agentes patog\u00eanicos a entrar!<\/p>\n\n\n\nTamb\u00e9m \u00e9 poss\u00edvel que voc\u00ea tenha aplicado um revestimento em uma unha que foi danificada por um roedor ou removedor de unhas, a base est\u00e1 inst\u00e1vel e o revestimento da unha est\u00e1 vulner\u00e1vel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are professional products on the market that create an \u2018interpenetrating polymer network, em<\/em> the nail plate. Strengthening the nail plate while maintaining a healthy flexibility is important, however, you should make a plan to completely recover the nail plate before applying any product at all. Care & maintenance with oil & lotion is essential but your client may want an \u2018instant result\u2019 and of course, we understand that, but sometimes taking a little more time to recover the nail unit first is better for you and your client. If you understand why its important to take a little time to recover the nail unit first, you can explain this to your client and he or she will love you for it.<\/p>\n\n\n\nFor \u2018special occasions\u2019 its possible to create gorgeous nails that stay in place for the occasion but that can be easily removed so that nail plate recovery or nail maintenance can continue after the fact \u2013 Using \u2018Full Cover Tips\u2019 or \u2018Press on Show Tips\u2019 could be a temporary option if you place them with care & remove them in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Infec\u00e7\u00f5es<\/strong>
As infec\u00e7\u00f5es podem ocorrer com qualquer pessoa, a qualquer momento, seja voc\u00ea um t\u00e9cnico de unhas profissional ou amador, ou esteja fazendo suas pr\u00f3prias unhas, e as infec\u00e7\u00f5es dentro ou ao redor do local onde o produto foi levantado s\u00e3o simplesmente uma consequ\u00eancia do levantamento do produto.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWe always have pathogens and microbiomes with us, they are a part of our normal daily life, most are essential to our wellbeing but sometimes, circumstances happen that create the perfect surroundings for them to allow their \u2018nasty side\u2019 to develop. Where your product is lifted from the natural nail becomes a cozy place for pseudomonas aeruginosa or WSO (white superficial onicomicose<\/a>) to develop and cause a riot. The problem is we can\u2019t always see this happening because they are developing underneath our nail coatings.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSe voc\u00ea perceber que algo causou um problema, talvez suspeite de uma infec\u00e7\u00e3o, remova o revestimento, limpe bem, use os protocolos de primeiros socorros, obtenha um diagn\u00f3stico e resolva o problema antes de reaplicar o produto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Nail-Infections.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nFig D: Pseudomonas Aeruginosa after nail coating removal \u2013 the blue dots & arrows show where the edge of your nail coating was. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Fig E: White Superficial Onychomycosis after nail coating removal \u2013 again hidden under the nail coating.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Both of these infections are caused by our own body\u2019s microbiome because we made it possible for them to develop. Hand & Nail maintenance with oil & lotion should be standard practice when artificial nail coatings or Nail Polish has been applied and we should be able to communicate this to our clients and to understand it ourselves whether we are DIY, students, or nail professionals \u2013 follow the same basic rules & the same hand & nail maintenance plan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Placas ungueais afetadas pela hiperidrose<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Palmar-Hyperhidrosis-or-Sweaty-palms.png\")
Hiperidrose palmar ou palmas das m\u00e3os suadas <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nExcessive sweating or uncontrolled sweating (Palmer Hyperhidrosis) affects you\u2019re the \u2018cushioned\u2019 part of your hands. Sweating occurs uncontrollably. Your hands may feel clammy or wet most of the time, it can happen at any temperature or during any season. The symptoms can increase in times of stress or anxiety. Socially it makes you feel uncomfortable shaking hands with someone, handing out papers at a meeting, or typing on a keyboard. Sweating happens without a trigger, not due to any external factor like exercising or an increase in body temperature. It can run in families, and it can be associated with other forms of hyperhidrosis or with certain medical conditions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Isso pode afetar as placas ungueais porque a umidade excessiva formada no leito ungueal e ao redor da unha pode fazer com que a placa ungueal permane\u00e7a mole. Se sua cliente sofre de hiperidrose, isso pode ser uma contraindica\u00e7\u00e3o para a aplica\u00e7\u00e3o de revestimentos de unhas devido ao risco de criar as condi\u00e7\u00f5es perfeitas para isso. Somente o verniz para unhas \u00e9 recomendado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ref: 1. (veja o final da p\u00e1gina)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Coloca\u00e7\u00e3o de produto sob o PNF<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nEssa pr\u00e1tica, sem saber onde o epon\u00edquio come\u00e7a ou termina (durante uma Arquivo eletr\u00f4nico<\/a> manicure), \u00e9 irrespons\u00e1vel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Touching any of the skin around the nail plate during product application<\/strong> This is one of the main problems we see, in the salon and at home, this will always cause \u2018lifting\u2019 because the nail plate is in perpetual motion 24\/7 and the skin moves in the opposite direction, it sloofs off in a vertical direction this stops the product being sealed on the nail plate, water & oils get underneath and the nail enhancement lifts off of the nail plate, this tempts you or your client to pick at it and this in turn creates the perfect environment for pathogens to settle and reproduce and the recovery of that nail can take months!<\/p>\n\n\n\n It’s important to distinguish product lifting from other nail-related concerns, such as chipping, peeling, or breakage. Product lifting specifically refers to the detachment of the enhancement from the nail bed, while other issues might involve issues with the enhancement itself or the natural nail structure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ao compreender esses aspectos, os t\u00e9cnicos de unhas podem implementar estrat\u00e9gias preventivas durante os processos de prepara\u00e7\u00e3o e aplica\u00e7\u00e3o das unhas. As se\u00e7\u00f5es subsequentes deste artigo se aprofundar\u00e3o no reconhecimento dos sinais de eleva\u00e7\u00e3o do produto, na compreens\u00e3o de suas causas e na explora\u00e7\u00e3o de t\u00e9cnicas para prevenir e controlar esse problema de forma eficaz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Mas o que causa isso?<\/p>\n\n\n\n Cut\u00edcula na placa ungueal <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n A cut\u00edcula<\/a> \u00e9 feito de tecido el\u00e1stico n\u00e3o vivo e fica preso ao placa ungueal<\/a> cells as they come through the eponychium. It is one of the four guardian seals. It protects the nail matrix from pathogens that we come across in our daily lives, and that\u2019s a good thing. However, when it comes to our artificial nail products, it can cause real problems. We need to remove it com cuidado<\/strong>! It doesn\u2019t need aggressive removal with a drill bit rotating at 20.000 RPM. If you think that\u2019s ok, try it on the bonnet of your neighbor\u2019s (new) car, and see what happens! Use your favorite good-quality nail oil & a curette, and you’re done in a couple of minutes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Figura 2a <\/strong>shows a nail plate with cuticle on. There is no light reflection in the cuticle. We all work with lights so seeing it should be no problem. If you can\u2019t see it, buy a loupe or some glasses \ud83d\ude0a<\/p>\n\n\n\n Figura 2b<\/strong> shows a nail plate without cuticle \u2013 the light reflects through the whole length of the nail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Durante os lockdowns da Covid-19, ficamos todos entusiasmados com o fato de podermos voltar ao trabalho. Em muitos pa\u00edses, grupos de especialistas em unhas cederam seu tempo gratuitamente para ajudar os sal\u00f5es a encontrar maneiras de trabalhar seguindo pr\u00e1ticas seguras. A pr\u00e1tica de higiene era alta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Washing hands with soap & water is one of the most effective ways to remove oil, minerals, and dirt from hands (feet) and nails. It takes almost no time at all \u2013 we should always do it, especially at the start of our service.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When you have finished removing the cuticle, and shaped the free edge with your file, let your client wash their hands novamente<\/em> with soap, water, and a soft nail brush, dry them well, and continue with your favorite nail plate cleanser. 2 minutes now save 30 minutes of problem-solving in about a week’s time! Allow yourself those couple of minutes. I promise that you will be rewarded with much less product lifting \u2013 good for you, good for your client.<\/p>\n\n\n\n *Don\u2019t forget, nail dust or dust from filing off artificial nail products can cause lifting problems at the free edge too! All the more reason for a quick wash after filing.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n This is an interesting one that we don\u2019t always realize is happening. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Sometimes working with artificial nail products takes time. Maybe you need to place forms and you’re not fast at that yet. Or the form got stuck on the nail plate. Maybe you are taking your time creating the right structure with a builder base coat. Whatever it may be, it does not matter. We don\u2019t all work at the speed of light, and all of us work hard to improve our speed. Maybe our client is having an emotional day, maybe they rubbed their face after all your prep work. All these things can re-contaminate a nail plate after you have prepped it. If things take you a little longer, do one hand first. When it is complete, start the second hand. That way you greatly reduce the chances of it happening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Os primers t\u00eam uma fun\u00e7\u00e3o no mundo das unhas: eles ajudam a aderir os produtos \u00e0s placas ungueais problem\u00e1ticas. De fato, alguns produtos para unhas artificiais precisam deles para aderir adequadamente. Tudo come\u00e7a com a condi\u00e7\u00e3o da unha natural. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Os problemas se agravam se curarmos os primers de forma incorreta ou se os usarmos em excesso.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Alguns primers secam ao ar e outros s\u00e3o curados em uma estufa. L\u00e2mpada UV\/LED<\/a>. Certifique-se de sempre ler as instru\u00e7\u00f5es do fabricante antes de us\u00e1-los.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Using too much primer or more than recommended, doesn\u2019t improve adhesion:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Importante<\/strong>: If we remove the upper layers of the nail plate all of the time instead of just removing the shine, we start to place our product on the \u2018unstable\u2019 nail plate cells that are the middle layers of the nail plate. This will always result in product lifting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A Base Coat \u00e9 a parte mais incompreendida e maltratada de nosso servi\u00e7o de unhas. Mais importante ainda, \u00e9 a parte mais importante de nosso servi\u00e7o de unhas!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Deixe-me explicar: <\/p>\n\n\n\n The ONLY layer of your artificial nail product or nail coating, even nail varnish that touches the natural nail is the base coat. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Se a camada de base n\u00e3o aderir bem \u00e0 unha natural, voc\u00ea poder\u00e1 dizer adeus a todo o revestimento ou aprimoramento da unha nos pr\u00f3ximos dias. O levantamento de produtos ser\u00e1 inevit\u00e1vel.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n In the beginning, Base Gels were high-adhesion, smooth, thin viscosity products. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Bons promotores de ades\u00e3o s\u00e3o alguns dos componentes de base mais caros em nosso setor de unhas; se voc\u00ea adicion\u00e1-los a um gel de constru\u00e7\u00e3o, voc\u00ea os perder\u00e1 no processo. massa<\/a> Portanto, se voc\u00ea usar um revestimento de base de constru\u00e7\u00e3o multifuncional, ser\u00e1 essencial usar um primer ou um adesivo.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Base Coat Gels<\/a> are an efficient way to create maximum adhesion to the natural nail. In 2022, you can apply a high-quality base coat without roughing up or buffing the natural nail plate. Just using a high-quality nail plate cleanser will ensure that the integrity of the natural nail is maintained when artificial nail product coatings are used.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Some base coats achieve better adhesion if you use a primer or bonder – sometimes using a primer will also make the soak-off process easier. Some primers can and will extend the life of your soak-off product. It\u2019s really important to not try and create your own recipe. Use the primer from the same company that provided your base coat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Primers are specially formulated to match a system. Don\u2019t be fooled into thinking the primer from company A will match the base coat from company B. You could end up cross-linking problem ingredients and end up with less adhesion instead of a better adhesion or, even worse, an allergy. Leave the chemistry to the chemists!<\/p>\n\n\n\n It\u2019s important to realize that all base coats are composed differently. Some are made to soak off, and some are made to stay on the natural nail for longer. Be aware if you do a cosmetic pedicure that you will need a more durable base coat since your client is not likely to return to have her toenails done in 14 days. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Let\u2019s recap:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Uncured product is a problem because we don\u2019t often see the problem it can cause until later (24\/48hrs later). Also, I have yet to meet a colleague that has x-ray vision! Sometimes it takes a few hours for the upper layer of your nail coating to collapse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Let\u2019s have a look at the problems that can occur from under-curing: <\/p>\n\n\n\n Rugas e bolhas<\/strong>: Geralmente acontece com cores escuras, preto, azul escuro, verde escuro etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Your UV\/LED light is one of the most critical pieces of equipment in your salon. Nanometers are everything when it comes to product cure but even the best UV energy has trouble penetrating thick, dark colors, leading to product lifting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Um dos melhores investimentos que voc\u00ea faz \u00e9 na l\u00e2mpada que combina com seu produto. O pr\u00f3ximo melhor investimento \u00e9 em suas pr\u00f3prias habilidades de controle do produto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Descascamento ou lascamento: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Product lifting is almost guaranteed and worse still, this client probably wants these ugly nails covered so the look amazing even if they are not. Explain how you\u2019re going to solve the problem and why putting product on this nail plate is not a smart thing to do. The chances of a nail plate infection caused by WSO or PA is waiting to happen and any product you do apply will likely lift. That would be a waste of your time and a waste of your client’s money.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The nails in Fig 5 took 11 months to treat with lots of quality oil & lotion. But now these nail plates are ready for any product or no product.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Usar dicas em seu roedor de unhas:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n I know a lot of nail techs do use tips on nail biting clients but try to resist the pressure, don\u2019t be afraid he\/she will go to another salon, explain the advantages of not doing it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As pontas s\u00e3o uma \u00f3tima ferramenta no mundo das unhas, mas quando o roedor de unhas coloca os dentes embaixo delas, elas simplesmente as arrancam, o que causa ainda mais danos \u00e0 unha natural que voc\u00ea est\u00e1 tentando deixar linda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tips need glue to adhere to the natural nail, glue contains cyano-acrylates that are allergens if they come into contact with the skin and the chances of that happening with 1\/3 of a nail plate to work with is high.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Also, all that damaged stratum corneum around the proximal nail fold \u2013 nightmare for perfect product placement with lifting being the inevitable result.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Oil, oil, and more oil \u2013 give it 6 weeks then strut your nail stuff!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Remember – A temporary fix may look good for a day or 2 but is not a real fix. Solve the nail plate problem first and you will have a client in your salon for life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It’s important to choose the right size of tip for the nail of your client, but If in doubt use a flexible nail tip that is straight. Apply it only to the free edge of the nail (unless of course it\u2019s a full cover tip \u2013 even then fit is really important). <\/p>\n\n\n\n If the tip is too big, you will create a flat C curve; if it’s too small, you will create a \u2018staircase\u2019 effect at the lateral nail fold and the free edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n I\u2019m going to keep this simple \u2013 Look for perfection training, all respectable brands have educators that do this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Todas as colas ou resinas de ponta s\u00e3o feitas de ou cont\u00eam cianoacrilato de etila ou cianoacrilatos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Basically, they are all super glues, and all contain allergens \u2013 Tenha muito cuidado para n\u00e3o deix\u00e1-los entrar em contato com a pele<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ethyl cyanoacrylate and cyanoacrylates have a limited shelf life. Solvents are added to the mix to help the adhesive solidify quickly. When you open a bottle of nail tip adhesive the solvents are evaporating, and the quality of the adhesive will reduce very quickly. If you don\u2019t use it often, buy smaller bottles of 5ml and that will reduce wastage and frustration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nail glue has a limited shelf life. The older it gets, the less likely it is to form a sufficient bond to hold the nail tip in place. This affects its \u2018stickiness\u2019, and your nail tip extension will not last.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tamb\u00e9m \u00e9 importante lembrar que os adesivos de unha t\u00eam uma vida \u00fatil limitada, mesmo quando s\u00e3o novos. Esse \u00e9 o motivo pelo qual voc\u00ea deve aplicar as pontas de unha somente na borda livre da unha, 2 mm = 2 semanas de crescimento para uma unha natural m\u00e9dia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n A estrutura do produto para unhas artificiais \u00e9 o que manter\u00e1 o aprimoramento da extens\u00e3o no lugar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Depois de aplicar as pontas, n\u00e3o remova o excesso de p\u00f3 com \u00e1lcool ou limpador de unhas, pois isso acelerar\u00e1 a quebra do adesivo e\/ou enfraquecer\u00e1 a ponta de unha de pl\u00e1stico. \u00c9 melhor simplesmente escov\u00e1-la.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Se voc\u00ea n\u00e3o preparar a unha natural corretamente, sempre ocorrer\u00e1 o levantamento da bolsa que, por sua vez, se tornar\u00e1 o local perfeito para a reprodu\u00e7\u00e3o de pat\u00f3genos residentes ou transit\u00f3rios, como a pseudomonas aeruginosa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Certifique-se de que sua cliente entenda que, com as extens\u00f5es de pontas de unhas, ela sempre precisar\u00e1 usar luvas ao realizar qualquer tarefa que envolva outros solventes e\/ou \u00e1gua. \u00c9 por isso que as pontas de unhas n\u00e3o s\u00e3o ideais para clientes que trabalham em bares ou em outros setores de servi\u00e7os.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A coloca\u00e7\u00e3o da forma \u00e9 algo que voc\u00ea precisa praticar e aperfei\u00e7oar. Depois de domin\u00e1-la, voc\u00ea nunca mais usar\u00e1 uma ponta de unha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Forms have wings and lines. These are to ensure a perfect fit. Most brands have their own forms, all a little different in shape but all with the same goal in mind. Perfect form fitting creates a stable enhancement that fits the nail and the nail unit of your client. You can then place the artificial nail or extension with perfect alignment and balance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Os problemas come\u00e7am quando voc\u00ea come\u00e7a com uma unha plana e n\u00e3o ajusta a forma para corresponder. A forma precisa se encaixar perfeitamente sob<\/strong> the free edge of the natural nail, and you should create the C-Curve with the nail product. (See Picture E) If you leave a gap (because you are trying to create the C-Curve with your form) and the nail product leaks through the gap, even water from something simple like your client taking a shower will cause the product to lift in a matter of hours. (See picture D) <\/p>\n\n\n\n If you start with a curved nail and the form does not properly fit, the product will not cure as well as it should. Apply the product in thinner layers, and cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n With practice you will achieve this \u2013 see picture E<\/p>\n\n\n\n A aplica\u00e7\u00e3o da forma requer pr\u00e1tica. Pergunte ao fornecedor da marca sobre o treinamento de perfei\u00e7\u00e3o e a coloca\u00e7\u00e3o da forma. Quando voc\u00ea acertar, n\u00e3o ter\u00e1 problemas com o levantamento do produto nas dobras das unhas ou na borda livre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As c\u00e9lulas da l\u00e2mina ungueal s\u00e3o formadas na matriz e seguem seu caminho ao longo do epon\u00edquio (onde a cut\u00edcula est\u00e1 presa). Em seguida, elas saem sob o PNF, onde s\u00e3o vistas como a l\u00e2mina ungueal normal. (A figura F mostra essa a\u00e7\u00e3o em movimento)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Isso acontece 24 horas por dia, 7 dias por semana! Doen\u00e7as ou gravidez podem desacelerar ou acelerar esse movimento.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If our product application is not as secure as it should be, maybe you\u2019re in a hurry, maybe you didn\u2019t bring your glasses to work or maybe the product you are using has a thin viscosity \u2013 the product might then drip into the lateral nail fold and become attached to your skin. (Figure G shows this)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Na MasterClass 1.2, voc\u00ea pode refrescar sua mem\u00f3ria sobre esse assunto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Let\u2019s have a look at pictures F & G<\/p>\n\n\n\n In picture F, you see 2 blue arrows; In picture G, two red arrows. So now imagine that they are in the same place in the lateral nail fold. F is in perpetual motion and G is static, the gel polish is hard and can only move with the nail plate. The gel polish that is in the nail grove will come loose and lift away, creating an opening. Water, oil, lotion, pathogens… Anything and everything can get between your gel polish and the nail plate! Product lifting will happen, and possibly an infection to boot!<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00c9 preciso muita pr\u00e1tica para colocar o produto perfeitamente ao redor do PNF e das dobras laterais das unhas. Portanto, invista em si mesmo e dedique um tempo para aprender. Se voc\u00ea conseguir dominar as linhas retas com verniz para unhas, voc\u00ea se tornar\u00e1 um especialista em linhas retas com esmalte em gel. Dominar isso far\u00e1 com que voc\u00ea seja mais eficiente no sal\u00e3o.<\/p>\n\n\n\n O mon\u00f4mero l\u00edquido e o p\u00f3 acr\u00edlico combinados formam o sistema perfeito de aprimoramento de unhas. Uma vez dominado, \u00e9 um produto realmente incr\u00edvel. Ele tem desvantagens: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n If you haven\u2019t mastered L&P, product lifting becomes a problem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Basicamente, a aplica\u00e7\u00e3o desigual do L&P sempre resultar\u00e1 em eleva\u00e7\u00e3o do produto ou da bolsa. Voc\u00ea dever\u00e1 lixar at\u00e9 que fique uniforme. Eventualmente, a limagem atrav\u00e9s do realce \u00e9 uma possibilidade real, e a limagem atrav\u00e9s da placa ungueal tamb\u00e9m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Using an acrylic brush you are not in control of, and a product that is too dry, may leave \u2018doorsteps\u2019 at the PNF. (see the red arrow in picture L) When the form is placed well and you have control of your L&P, you will not need to file excessively at the nail folds and your apex will be so strong the nail will last and last. (see figure K red, yellow and orange arrow)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Se o cord\u00e3o de L&P estiver muito \u00famido, o produto que escorrer para as dobras laterais da unha (como no exemplo do esmalte em gel na figura F) far\u00e1 com que o L&P se levante. Como os sistemas de L&P secam ao ar livre em vez de curar em uma l\u00e2mpada, voc\u00ea tem mais tempo para puxar e segurar suavemente a pele nas dobras das unhas durante a coloca\u00e7\u00e3o do produto e manter o controle do produto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One more important reason for product lifting with L&P systems is shrinkage. L&P that is too wet will air dry at the wrong speed. When this happens, the excess monomer evaporates, the remaining polymer chains get pulled together, and the product tightens on the natural nail. This will not only cause pocket lifting that will be the perfect place for nasty pathogens, but it can actually be painful and heat will be generated by the chemical reaction caused by the polymers as they dry. Your client will experience this as uncomfortable pressure, maybe even intense heat hours later, and the enhancement will not last.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Practice, practice, a little patience, and lots of \u2018bead making\u2019 on practice sheets will ensure that you can create the perfect enhancement that will last longer than any other. A natural nail overlay with L&P will not only look stunning but, when placed well, it will wear as no other, and the rebalance will be done in 30mins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Let\u2019s go back to figure F. Remember the nail plate cells and their movement?<\/p>\n\n\n\n Marian Newman fala na Masterclass One sobre como a espessura da placa ungueal \u00e9 determinada pelo comprimento da matriz. As c\u00e9lulas mais novas da l\u00e2mina ungueal s\u00e3o mais macias, n\u00e3o muito maduras, se voc\u00ea preferir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Agora imagine que voc\u00ea tenha uma unha amarga, com placas de unhas finas para come\u00e7ar, que n\u00e3o resiste a mastigar o restante da placa ungueal. N\u00e3o h\u00e1 nada de bom em colocar um produto de escultura duro nessa base muito fraca! O motivo pelo qual n\u00e3o vai dar certo \u00e9 que a base (a placa ungueal) tem camadas incompletas mastigadas e est\u00e1 sempre em movimento. O levantamento da bolsa ser\u00e1 inevit\u00e1vel, com todas as coisas desagrad\u00e1veis que v\u00eam com ele. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Uma placa ungueal fraca precisa de um produto flex\u00edvel aplicado em uma camada fina (se<\/em> you are going to use a product). I would recommend first recovering the nail biter’s nail plate before considering any product application. But, if you must, maybe for a wedding or a special occasion, use a clear fiber gel (figure J:)<\/p>\n\n\n\n You can create simple small nails with a special effect nail varnish topcoat and your client will love you forever. He or she will have great looking nails with no problems, and you will be able to see through the product spotting any problems with lifting before things get out of hand. Get him or her to come back after the occasion \u2013 check that the nail coating is still intact, and no problems are occurring – if it\u2019s not remove it!<\/p>\n\n\n\n O treinamento, bem como a manuten\u00e7\u00e3o das m\u00e3os e das unhas, \u00e9 importante aqui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Levantamento de produtos<\/strong>No contexto dos cuidados com as unhas, refere-se \u00e0 separa\u00e7\u00e3o ou descolamento de produtos para unhas, como acr\u00edlico ou gel, da placa ungueal natural. Esse problema ocorre quando o produto aplicado na unha perde a ader\u00eancia \u00e0 unha natural, resultando em lacunas entre o produto e a unha natural ou at\u00e9 mesmo no descolamento total. O levantamento do produto pode ser causado por diferentes fatores, alguns dos quais podem ser causados (n\u00e3o intencionalmente) por n\u00f3s mesmos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Trauma<\/strong> Levantamento de bolso<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Pocket lifting occurs when the nail product separates from the nail plate but not around the edge. If you are wearing a clear product its visible but if you have created something amazing or using dark colors \u2013 you can miss it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If it\u2019s a natural overlay or a long extension \u2013 the result is the same, the nail enhancement is detached from the nail plate in the center \u2013 we can see it on the left nail because the enhancement is clear, on the right nail we only see it because we are rebalancing the enhancement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Belisc\u00e3o<\/strong> The C-Curve is pinched after product placement of the white to produce the perfect \u2018C\u2019 (This is done after the cover color is cured).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Today our products are more controllable and \u2018building\u2019 an apex and producing a C-Curve is easier if your coloca\u00e7\u00e3o de formul\u00e1rios<\/em> is well done but here also the rule is \u2018product control is everything\u2019 Done well you can produce gorgeous, long lasting nail extensions in the salon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When you put the two side by side you see the difference but more importantly both effects are achieved without any pocket lifting \u2013 Product control, control of your pinching tool and good instructions are so important, you cannot achieve this kind of artificial nail without a good education and hours of training \u2013 but when you have mastered it, there is no looking back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Instabilidade ou fraqueza da placa ungueal<\/strong> Sometimes we get a little too enthusiastic when we are told to \u2018remove the shine\u2019 from our nail plate with a file. It\u2019s better to think about replacing the buffer<\/a> lixe com um bom limpador de placa ungueal. Seu produto aderir\u00e1 bem \u00e0 unha natural e a placa ungueal permanecer\u00e1 forte. Lembre-se de que a placa ungueal tem, em m\u00e9dia, apenas 0,380 mm de espessura. N\u00e3o \u00e9 necess\u00e1rio lixar muito para remover n\u00e3o apenas a camada superior, mas remover muito influenciar\u00e1 definitivamente sua estabilidade e convidar\u00e1 os agentes patog\u00eanicos a entrar!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tamb\u00e9m \u00e9 poss\u00edvel que voc\u00ea tenha aplicado um revestimento em uma unha que foi danificada por um roedor ou removedor de unhas, a base est\u00e1 inst\u00e1vel e o revestimento da unha est\u00e1 vulner\u00e1vel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are professional products on the market that create an \u2018interpenetrating polymer network, em<\/em> the nail plate. Strengthening the nail plate while maintaining a healthy flexibility is important, however, you should make a plan to completely recover the nail plate before applying any product at all. Care & maintenance with oil & lotion is essential but your client may want an \u2018instant result\u2019 and of course, we understand that, but sometimes taking a little more time to recover the nail unit first is better for you and your client. If you understand why its important to take a little time to recover the nail unit first, you can explain this to your client and he or she will love you for it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For \u2018special occasions\u2019 its possible to create gorgeous nails that stay in place for the occasion but that can be easily removed so that nail plate recovery or nail maintenance can continue after the fact \u2013 Using \u2018Full Cover Tips\u2019 or \u2018Press on Show Tips\u2019 could be a temporary option if you place them with care & remove them in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Infec\u00e7\u00f5es<\/strong> We always have pathogens and microbiomes with us, they are a part of our normal daily life, most are essential to our wellbeing but sometimes, circumstances happen that create the perfect surroundings for them to allow their \u2018nasty side\u2019 to develop. Where your product is lifted from the natural nail becomes a cozy place for pseudomonas aeruginosa or WSO (white superficial onicomicose<\/a>) to develop and cause a riot. The problem is we can\u2019t always see this happening because they are developing underneath our nail coatings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Se voc\u00ea perceber que algo causou um problema, talvez suspeite de uma infec\u00e7\u00e3o, remova o revestimento, limpe bem, use os protocolos de primeiros socorros, obtenha um diagn\u00f3stico e resolva o problema antes de reaplicar o produto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Fig D: Pseudomonas Aeruginosa after nail coating removal \u2013 the blue dots & arrows show where the edge of your nail coating was. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Fig E: White Superficial Onychomycosis after nail coating removal \u2013 again hidden under the nail coating.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Both of these infections are caused by our own body\u2019s microbiome because we made it possible for them to develop. Hand & Nail maintenance with oil & lotion should be standard practice when artificial nail coatings or Nail Polish has been applied and we should be able to communicate this to our clients and to understand it ourselves whether we are DIY, students, or nail professionals \u2013 follow the same basic rules & the same hand & nail maintenance plan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Excessive sweating or uncontrolled sweating (Palmer Hyperhidrosis) affects you\u2019re the \u2018cushioned\u2019 part of your hands. Sweating occurs uncontrollably. Your hands may feel clammy or wet most of the time, it can happen at any temperature or during any season. The symptoms can increase in times of stress or anxiety. Socially it makes you feel uncomfortable shaking hands with someone, handing out papers at a meeting, or typing on a keyboard. Sweating happens without a trigger, not due to any external factor like exercising or an increase in body temperature. It can run in families, and it can be associated with other forms of hyperhidrosis or with certain medical conditions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Isso pode afetar as placas ungueais porque a umidade excessiva formada no leito ungueal e ao redor da unha pode fazer com que a placa ungueal permane\u00e7a mole. Se sua cliente sofre de hiperidrose, isso pode ser uma contraindica\u00e7\u00e3o para a aplica\u00e7\u00e3o de revestimentos de unhas devido ao risco de criar as condi\u00e7\u00f5es perfeitas para isso. Somente o verniz para unhas \u00e9 recomendado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ref: 1. (veja o final da p\u00e1gina)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Coloca\u00e7\u00e3o de produto sob o PNF<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Essa pr\u00e1tica, sem saber onde o epon\u00edquio come\u00e7a ou termina (durante uma Arquivo eletr\u00f4nico<\/a> manicure), \u00e9 irrespons\u00e1vel.<\/p>\n\n\n\nV\u00e1rios outros fatores podem contribuir para a eleva\u00e7\u00e3o do produto para unhas<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
Diferenciando o levantamento de produtos de outros problemas<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Nail Product lifting \u2013 Sounds Simple Enough, Right?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
a. roedor de unhas
b. placa ungueal lixada muito fina <\/li>\n\n\n\n
a. Placa ungueal insuficiente para colocar o produto
b. Uso de dicas <\/li>\n\n\n\n
a. Old glue<\/li>\n\n\n\n
a. Prego plano, coloca\u00e7\u00e3o de forma curva
b. Prego curvo, coloca\u00e7\u00e3o de forma plana <\/li>\n\n\n\n
a. Aplica\u00e7\u00e3o irregular
i. Deixar as soleiras das portas no PNF
ii. Product running into the lateral nail folds <\/li>\n\n\n\n
a. Trauma
b. Belisc\u00e3o
c. Fraqueza da placa ungueal <\/li>\n\n\n\nLet\u2019s have a Look at them in More Detail<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\u00d3leo, minerais ou sujeira (ainda) na placa ungueal<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Recontamina\u00e7\u00e3o da placa ungueal ap\u00f3s a limpeza<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Uso excessivo de primer<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Uso incorreto da camada de base<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Produto n\u00e3o curado<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n
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\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n
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Placas de pregos inst\u00e1veis<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n
Roedores de unhas<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n
Tamanho e ajuste incorretos das pontas das unhas artificiais<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nCola de ponta<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Cola antiga<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Coloca\u00e7\u00e3o incorreta do formul\u00e1rio<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nContato do produto com a pele durante a aplica\u00e7\u00e3o<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPropor\u00e7\u00e3o incorreta de mistura de l\u00edquido e p\u00f3 (sistema de unhas de acr\u00edlico) <\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Voc\u00ea pode us\u00e1-lo para: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
\n
Arquivamento excessivo<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
A l\u00e2mina ungueal no PNF \u00e9 a mais macia e as c\u00e9lulas da l\u00e2mina ungueal precisam sobreviver intactas por 5 meses. O lixamento excessivo nesse local n\u00e3o s\u00f3 danificar\u00e1 o seu aumento, mas tamb\u00e9m a l\u00e2mina ungueal, e o produto se levantar\u00e1. Da mesma forma, se a forma n\u00e3o se encaixar bem, a parede lateral do aumento n\u00e3o ser\u00e1 forte (consulte a figura L, a seta amarela) e a borda livre ser\u00e1 irregular e fraca (consulte a figura L, a seta laranja)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nProduto muito \u00famido<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
N\u00e3o usar o sistema correto para o tipo espec\u00edfico de unha<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLevantamento de bolso<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
If you knock the enhancement or nail coating while shopping, or while cleaning (even if you are wearing gloves) then the impact can cause the product to lift, and you won\u2019t always see it from the outside. This pocket of air between the enhancement & the nail plate creates the perfect place for opportunistic pathogens. The problem is that because we have created gorgeous nails we don\u2019t always see on time whats going on underneath \u2013 so a good rule would be, when in doubt, if you know you have knocked your nail remove the product to check if and what damage has been done and repair it as soon as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\u2018Pinching\u2019 is something we do in competition to create the perfect C-Curve, it needs to be done well and with care because if we \u2018pinch\u2019 an artificial nail product and the nail product is too hard, product lifting becomes a real possibility. 30 years ago, pinching was the \u2018norm\u2019 and in competition is still a useful tool if you have been trained well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
If you \u2018buff\u2019 the natural nail before applying nail coatings of any sort, then, per definition, you are weakening the nail plate. If you also remove the skin from around the nail plate in the lateral nail folds & proximal nail fold, then you destabilize the entire nail plate. This creates an instability, a bit like building a house on sand instead of a solid foundation. Built on sand, the house will show signs of weakness or collapse, build on proper strong foundations the house will remain standing for as long as the building materials allow. The same is true for the nail plate when it \u2018carries\u2019 a nail coating. When the nail is intact and its surrounding seals are still in place the nail coating will remail attached to the nail plate for as long as the nail coating is made to last, if we remove any or all of the essential parts the nail plate becomes unstable and our nail coating will per definition become instable and weak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As infec\u00e7\u00f5es podem ocorrer com qualquer pessoa, a qualquer momento, seja voc\u00ea um t\u00e9cnico de unhas profissional ou amador, ou esteja fazendo suas pr\u00f3prias unhas, e as infec\u00e7\u00f5es dentro ou ao redor do local onde o produto foi levantado s\u00e3o simplesmente uma consequ\u00eancia do levantamento do produto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPlacas ungueais afetadas pela hiperidrose<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/PNF.jpg\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nailknowledge.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Eponychium-lies-under-the-proximal-nail-fold.png\")