The cuticle is created by the eponychium on the ventral (on underside) surface of the proximal nail fold.  The cuticle is formed of sticky dead skin cells that are shed by the living skin of the PNF just like the skin cells are from any surface of epidermis but instead of falling off in flakes, they are bound together with a very sticky substance, that sticks them firmly to the emerging nail plate beneath them and the frame of keratinised epidermis above them. This important part of the nail seal (or guardian) at the base of the nail is curated by the eponychium which ‘sticks’ the dead skin cells together.

Essa fina camada de pele morta adere rapidamente à placa ungueal e à prega ungueal proximal, forming an important seal that protects the important matrix that is behind and below the PNF. This is non-living skin, though, and is safely removed prior to manicures and pedicures, to avoid any lifting of artificial nails, for example. 

Pergunte aos especialistas

Você deve empurrar suas cutículas para trás?

The answer to this is NO! The cuticle that is exposed and on the nail plate can be safely removed as it is non-living tissue, however to prevent infection of the finger, stop when you reach the frame of keratinised epidermis at the edge of the proximal nail fold. If you go further, and push deep under the proximal nail fold, you open the area up to infection.
Na realidade, a cutícula precisa ser levantada da placa ungueal quando estiver amolecida e depois removida.

Qual é a função da cutícula?

With the proximal nail fold and the nail plate sealed together with the sticky cuticle in the middle, there is a very efficient first line of defense against all types of invaders from pathogens to chemicals to fungus spores. Any of these that reach the delicate matrix can very easily interrupt the growth of the nail plate and even stop growth altogether. 

De que é feita a cutícula?

A cutícula é formada por células incolores e não vivas da pele.

Como você remove a cutícula?

Idealmente, antes de fazer qualquer coisa na cutícula da placa ungueal, ela precisa ser amolecida. Historicamente, isso tem sido feito por meio de deixar as unhas de molho em água amolecida. Isso amolecerá a cutícula de forma muito eficaz, MAS também criará um efeito indesejado na placa ungueal.

The nail plate is hydrophilic, meaning it loves water and is very porous due to the time air spaces within it. If it is soaked in water for 1 minute or more, it will allow water to penetrate the structure, change the shape, temporarily, and make it very soft until the excess water has evaporated. Then it will return to its original shape and regain its hardness. 

If an overlay of any kind is applied to a ‘water logged’ nail plate there is a good chance of lifting when the nail returns to its original shape. 

Os produtos e as técnicas modernas deixaram de usar a imersão em água e passaram a usar produtos muito mais eficientes para amolecer as cutículas.

These can be an alkaline based product such as sodium hydroxide. This is very efficient at breaking the bonds between dead skin cells and softening the layer. It should, however, NOT be left on the nail nor skin as it will continue to work and will also soften the nail plate and make it very susceptible to damage during the nail service. It needs to be neutralised by a mild solution of soapy water that can be applied via a water spray and drying with a disposable wipe or by washing the hands with liquid soap and running water.

Como alternativa, a aplicação de um bom óleo para unhas no início do serviço, mas depois que as unhas tiverem sido removidas e limpas. Isso pode amolecer com eficiência a pele morta da cutícula enquanto as unhas estão sendo modeladas. Em seguida, a pele amolecida pode ser removida com segurança por uma boa ferramenta de cutícula, tomando cuidado para não danificar a superfície da unha nem o PNF.

This process can also be safely achieved using an e-file. This technique needs education, a slow e-file speed, suitable e-file bit and, preferably oil to minimise any nail plate damage. 

There are some e-file techniques that are very extreme in the removal of skin in this area. If you understand the structure and purpose of the PNF it is very clear that this area must be protected at all costs. The ‘seal’ must NOT be broken and therefor opening the matrix to pathogens. 

Those nail pros and, indeed, respected educators, who carry out and teach the extreme version of this technique, clearly have no real understanding of the physiology and pathology of the area! (Maybe link to all or any of Vitaly or Doug’s articles on this topic)

Em conclusão:

• A cutícula é uma fina camada de pele morta na superfície da placa ungueal.
• Ela é criada pelo eponíquio na parte inferior da dobra ungueal proximal.
• The cuticle is the middle layer of the proximal nail fold and nail plate, and it forms a crucial seal at the base of the nail, safeguarding the delicate matrix.
• Ele pode ser removido com segurança e eficácia sem danificar a vedação.
• A remoção da cutícula é necessária para facilitar a adesão das sobreposições à placa ungueal e para obter uma borda limpa e organizada na sobreposição.

Galeria de imagens