Nail Prep, um tamanho NÃO serve para todos!

Há muitas perguntas do tipo: I do the same nail prep for all but a couple of my clients keep getting chips or lifting.

A resposta a esse problema está na pergunta. Essa é a mesma preparação para todos. Isso não funciona, pois as unhas e o estilo de vida de cada um são diferentes.

Isso começa com um entendimento muito bem fundamentado da condição das unhas e estilo de vida.

Construindo bases sólidas para aprimoramentos e polimento com gel UV

Se as unhas são finas e/ou fracas from previous damage, over buffing or naturally thin then that client may not be suitable for enhancements or UV gel polish. You cannot build a strong structure on weak foundations.

The client may need a course of treatment that strengthens the nail plate first. Most brands have a nail-strengthening treatment (this is different from a hardener as this will cause a different problem). Those that have keratin in an oil or one that penetrates the nail plate and strengthens from the inside.

Pode ser que um base de borracha can work as it should be flexible enough to move with the weak nail and not against it. But a rubber base will not suit all clients and trying another brand will involve a new lamp so try using it much thinner or applying two thin layers. If you are using all the same brand it can sometimes work by putting a thin base de borracha entre as camadas de cor, o que dá mais resistência. Se fizer isso, tome cuidado com a espessura em torno das bordas do revestimento, pois ele pode facilmente parecer desagradavelmente espesso.

Muitos problemas de preparação das unhas envolvem a necessidade de adesão extra

Isso tem várias causas:

• algumas unhas têm cutícula much higher up the nail than expected, even as far as halfway up. Every particle of this must be removed gently for adhesion of any coating. With a cuticle remover tool (with experience) you will be able to feel what is skin and what is nail so start much further up the nail when removing but be careful not to dig into the nail plate and cause a ridge.
• Every brand should have a cleanser and/or a dehydrator. You may use this on all 10 nails at the same time but sometimes, if the oil is especially oily, the answer is to dehydrate one nail at a time and apply the coating which will be applied to a perfectly dehydrated nail before natural oils and moisture have reached the surface again.

Some brands have additional adhesion enhancers such as a primer. Use this on the lifters but do not be tempted to use a product from another brand as it may not be compatible with the colour and will cause it to lift. Most primers need a minimal application and are allowed to air dry before moving on. Some may need curing. Always follow the instructions.

As unhas que são excessivamente oleosas representam um desafio. A solução, como explicado anteriormente, é desidratá-las uma de cada vez.

Some nails are too hard especially when they have no surface damage. This type of nail may need extra buffing with a slightly harder grit (lower grit number) than other nails as they need a bit of help with the adhesion as all adhesives penetrate into the top couple of nail layers for a good grip. If this is needed be careful to buff or file any more than necessary as the nail will eventually become thin and weak and cause a different problem.

Using UV gel polish is a skill that is more similar to applying enhancements than using regular nail polish (which many have lost or not learned the skill of applying as it dries too quickly for them)

Aperfeiçoando o ápice da unha para obter unhas mais fortes

Every coating needs an apex for strength to avoid breaking or bending (which happens often to weak nails with a free edge and causes lifting) Always create an apex. This is usually over the onychodermal band but maybe a little nearer the base of the nail for a longer nail. If you are not skilled at creating an apex, when you have applied the second colour coat, turn the clients hand over parallel to the desk top which allows gravity to pull the uncured coating from the sides and it into a natural apex over the centre of the nail.

Orientando as clientes quanto ao comprimento e à saúde das unhas

Some clients want the nails to be longer than is practical for their lifestyle. If they are too long they will break often and need to be shorter. If a client breaks  nail and the nail plate is torn from the nail bed this is because the coating is too thick and strong! The coating must break before the nail does.

If a client insists on nails too long for them remind them you are the professional in this relationship and you are advising them for the health of their nails. Even a crack in the nail plate can let pathogens in and cause long-term problems.

É seu dever profissional fazer uma avaliação precisa das unhas de cada cliente e oferecer o melhor tratamento preparatório para as unhas com base em seu conhecimento e habilidade, e não culpar o produto.