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Nail Prep - one size does not fit all

Nail Prep, one size does NOT fit all!

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There are so many questions along the lines of: I do the same nail prep for all but a couple of my clients keep getting chips or lifting.

The answer to that problem is in the question. That is the same prep for all. This does not work as every ones nails and lifestyle are different.

This starts with a very educated understanding of the nail condition and lifestyle.

Building Strong Foundations for Enhancements and UV Gel Polish

If nails are thin and/or weak from previous damage, over buffing or naturally thin then that client may not be suitable for enhancements or UV gel polish. You cannot build a strong structure on weak foundations.

The client may need a course of treatment that strengthens the nail plate first. Most brands have a nail-strengthening treatment (this is different from a hardener as this will cause a different problem). Those that have keratin in an oil or one that penetrates the nail plate and strengthens from the inside.

It may be that a rubber base can work as it should be flexible enough to move with the weak nail and not against it. But a rubber base will not suit all clients and trying another brand will involve a new lamp so try using it much thinner or applying two thin layers. If you are using all the same brand it can sometimes work by putting a thin rubber base in between the colour layers giving more strength. If doing this beware of the thickness all around the edges of the coating as it can easily look unpleasantly thick.

Many Nail Prep Problems Involve the Need for Extra Adhesion

This has several causes:

  • some nails have cuticle much higher up the nail than expected, even as far as halfway up. Every particle of this must be removed gently for adhesion of any coating. With a cuticle remover tool (with experience) you will be able to feel what is skin and what is nail so start much further up the nail when removing but be careful not to dig into the nail plate and cause a ridge.
  • Every brand should have a cleanser and/or a dehydrator. You may use this on all 10 nails at the same time but sometimes, if the oil is especially oily, the answer is to dehydrate one nail at a time and apply the coating which will be applied to a perfectly dehydrated nail before natural oils and moisture have reached the surface again.

Some brands have additional adhesion enhancers such as a primer. Use this on the lifters but do not be tempted to use a product from another brand as it may not be compatible with the colour and will cause it to lift. Most primers need a minimal application and are allowed to air dry before moving on. Some may need curing. Always follow the instructions.

Nails that are excessively oily pose a challenge. The solution, as previously explained, is to dehydrate them one at a time.

Some nails are too hard especially when they have no surface damage. This type of nail may need extra buffing with a slightly harder grit (lower grit number) than other nails as they need a bit of help with the adhesion as all adhesives penetrate into the top couple of nail layers for a good grip. If this is needed be careful to buff or file any more than necessary as the nail will eventually become thin and weak and cause a different problem.

Using UV gel polish is a skill that is more similar to applying enhancements than using regular nail polish (which many have lost or not learned the skill of applying as it dries too quickly for them)

Perfecting the Nail Apex for Stronger Nails

Every coating needs an apex for strength to avoid breaking or bending (which happens often to weak nails with a free edge and causes lifting) Always create an apex. This is usually over the onychodermal band but maybe a little nearer the base of the nail for a longer nail. If you are not skilled at creating an apex, when you have applied the second colour coat, turn the clients hand over parallel to the desk top which allows gravity to pull the uncured coating from the sides and it into a natural apex over the centre of the nail.

Guiding Clients Towards Nail Length and Health

Some clients want the nails to be longer than is practical for their lifestyle. If they are too long they will break often and need to be shorter. If a client breaks  nail and the nail plate is torn from the nail bed this is because the coating is too thick and strong! The coating must break before the nail does.

If a client insists on nails too long for them remind them you are the professional in this relationship and you are advising them for the health of their nails. Even a crack in the nail plate can let pathogens in and cause long-term problems.

It is your professional duty to make an accurate assessment of every clients nails and provide the best nail prep treatment based on your knowledge and skill and not blame the product.

Related Terms:

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A cosmetic product designed to soften the thin layer of dead skin cells adhered to the nail plate to allow for safe and easy removal.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_519a81190b04808191db83dcdfbdfcff":"

Onychodermal band<\/div>
Onychodermal Band\n

A smile line showing through the Nail Plate which is caused by Nail Bed Epithelium squeezing past the Hyponychium.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_47ffca807399854a8cf9ed917af26471":"

Nail polish<\/div>
\n

A cosmetic product that coats the nails with a colour or clear film for strength and\/or an aesthetic quality. It is full of solvents that dry by evaporation.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_1246a1b7fb9bed3e4702bd0168f71114":"

Nail plate<\/div>
Nail Plate\n

Hard layers of modified and keratinised skin cells, bonded together, to form a protective plate on the end of each finger and toe, that prevents damage to the underlying bone and allows for manual dexterity.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_4e3b89a162dd8df8a9f8d5de4794ebba":"

Gel polish<\/div>
\n

Gel polish is a type of nail polish that is cured under UV or LED light to create a hard, durable and glossy coating. It is a two-step process that involves applying a base coat, followed by the gel polish color, and then finishing with a top coat. <\/p>\n
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The gel polish is composed of a mixture of monomers, oligomers, pigments, and other additives that polymerize when exposed to light. This creates a strong bond with the natural nail, making the manicure long-lasting and resistant to chipping, peeling and cracking. <\/p>\n
\n

Gel polish is typically removed by soaking the nails in acetone, and is a popular choice for people looking for a low-maintenance, high-shine manicure.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_6511e2627ae234623cc4d2f4d98fc27e":"

Dehydrator<\/div>
\n

A product used in nail preparation to remove excess moisture from the nail plate, allowing for better adhesion of nail products such as polish, gel, or acrylics.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_3862ec5812109e89f2ef491358667ded":"

Free edge<\/div>
\n

The free edge refers to the outermost part of the nail plate that extends beyond the fingertip or toe. It is the portion of the nail that is not attached to the nail bed or the surrounding skin. The free edge is typically trimmed and shaped during nail care routines and is susceptible to snapping or breaking off when subjected to excessive force or trauma.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_aa650fb4b85a7bb9963695f738120252":"

Nail prep<\/div>
\n

The process of preparing the natural nail for a nail enhancement service, such as a manicure, pedicure, or artificial nail application.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_feb4cb65d40ddf76f9b89f3b1d869a93":"

Structure<\/div>
\n

In the context of 'nails', the structure is the creation of an overlay or an enhancement that provides the strongest 'structure' that depends on the length, shape, and aesthetic.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_6dd080385fe32de95a67c57087d20c67":"

Cleanser<\/div>
\n

A cleanser in nail services usually refers to a product that removes oils and debris from the skin or, more relevantly, the nail plate. It will cleanse the skin or nail plate ready for other products to be used and become more effective as there will be no oil or debris barrier to the effectiveness of the subsequent products.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_c1a36df0013019a12f8f575de70e853d":"

Nail bed<\/div>
Nail Bed\n

An area of the nail unit under the nail plate consisting of Nail Bed Epithelium and Dermis.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_b1c0d6ac2b2d57b70735cc3036131694":"

Pathogen<\/div>
Pathogen\n

A pathogen is the term used to describe an organism (any organism) that can produce disease. <\/p>\n
\n

Viruses, Bacteria\u00a0and Fungi\u00a0are 3 typical pathogens that we can come into contact within the nail salon or podiatry practice.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_be33e2937f9f182702984fbbe290b775":"

Lifting<\/div>
\n

When adhesion of a nail coating to the nail plate breaks down because the nail coating has reached the end of its lifecycle.
When the nail coating has also been applied to the nail plate but touched the skin, the movement of the nail plate causes a fracture in the coating and water and or oil can get underneath the coating and lift it from the nail plate.
When the client has had some kind of accident \u2013 banged his\/her nail coating and caused it to fracture or break allowing water and or oil to get underneath.
When the nail plate is not properly cleaned or prepared before application then the nail coating will not adhere well to the nail plate and lift away.
It\u2019s important to spot this in time and replace or repair the nail coating to prevent infections from 'Pseudomonas Aeruginosa' or White Superficial Onychomycosis taking hold.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_d61ffd4b1e0feb3ae62068cdc8511042":"

Buffing<\/div>
Nail Buffing\n

This is a process using an abrasive. It could refer to using a buffer (usually with a high grit of around 240) to shape and refine a nail coating or overlay. Or it could refer to using a 3 or 4 way buffer (of increasing grit) to bring an overlay or a natural nail to a shine<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_009a2d458eaec92455bf8548da887936":"

Keratin<\/div>
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Keratin: a fibrous protein that makes up the structure of nails and hair.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_6e4b2c42b82604c2f739d01368901b8a":"

Cure \/ Curing<\/div>
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This is the term used to describe the polymerization process for the acrylics (whether uv gels or l&p systems) used in nail coatings. A 'proper cure' is what should be achieved which is when, at least, 80% of the coating has been polymerised. Anything less than this is considered to be 'under-cured' and can cause an allergic reaction. \"Over-curing\" would be when the nail coating is cured in a lamp that has a stronger output than what the manufacturer recommends, and it will make the nail coating brittle.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_4eb428598c1d8f289e6897779124e77d":"

UV Gel<\/div>
\n

A nail product that cures (or polymerizes) under a UV lamp.
There are various types of UV gels, categorized by the way they can be removed, or by the way they can be used.

<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_f94935a711b0f2d9c1ea8eb861281cd1":"

Polish<\/div>
\n

Polish, also known as nail polish or nail enamel, is a cosmetic product that is applied to the nails to add color and shine. It is typically made from a combination of nitrocellulose, a solvent, and pigments or dyes.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_be4f3ed4190c326680dcfaad66790282":"

Base<\/div>
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This is often what an alkaline substance is called but is commonly used as a term describing a nail coating that is a first layer adhering to the nail plate.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_6691b388036e2b193c090e89e5cfba47":"

Grit<\/div>
\n

This refers to an abrasive. Many different files and buffers are used by a nail professional for different purposes. The 'grit' denotes the level of abrasiveness. The lower the number the more abrasive the file or buffer; the higher the number the less abrasive. 100 or 180 grits is commonly used to shape and refine a coating or overlay. 240 is the lowest grit that should be used on a natural nail as any lower can cause too much damage. <\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_65613e97f2411bc5c33cf6caac8295d2":"

Nail file<\/div>
nail files\n

A\u00a0nail file\u00a0is an abrasive tool used to shape the edges of\u00a0natural nails or correct the shape of nail enhancements. It is often used in\u00a0manicures\u00a0and\u00a0pedicures\u00a0after the nail has been trimmed using appropriate\u00a0nail clippers. Nail files may either be emery boards, ceramic, glass, crystal, or metal files. <\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_078d229fa6f074e73ca07066b4a07e4b":"

Apex<\/div>
1<\/div>\n

This is the highest point of the structure of the enhanced nail (or even a natural nail with added strength) It is the meeting of the 'c' curve and the upper arch to create the strongest structure regardless of the actual shape. Its position will depend on the specific shape and length <\/p>\n

2<\/div>\n

The apex is the highest point of an artificial nail enhancement, commonly found in sculpted nails such as acrylics or gels. It is strategically placed to provide strength and structure to the nail, ensuring durability and reducing the risk of breakage. The apex is typically located in the center of the nail or slightly off-center towards the cuticle, creating a subtle arch that follows the natural curvature of the nail bed. This arch not only reinforces the nail but also enhances its aesthetic appearance by giving it a more natural and balanced look.<\/p>\n
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Importance:<\/strong> Proper placement and formation of the apex are crucial for the longevity and health of nail enhancements. It absorbs the stresses and impacts that the nails may encounter during daily activities, acting as a protective barrier against cracks and chips. A well-crafted apex is a hallmark of professional nail artistry and is essential for maintaining the overall integrity and beauty of the nail enhancement.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>"}}; -->