A large part of the nail sector is aware of the ‘allergy epidemic’ that we and our clients are suffering from. (Surprisingly, there are still many that are not aware of it).
Acrylate-based nail coatings have been available and used since, at least, the late ’70s. There were, of course, incidences of allergies that will naturally occur in some people. Plus the occasional incidence due to ‘overexposure’ (a situation that should be included in EVERY training course for beginners and how to avoid it). We would expect these to be lower than 10% for all users. This has been the case up until around the mid 2010s. Then………..wow!
The British Association of Dermatologists identified the situation in 2018, mostly due to the rise in allergies in consumers of retail UV cured products (aka UV gel polish). This situation had, of course, spilled over into the professional sector. Nail professionals and their clients were experiencing unusual and, often, very severe symptoms. The symptoms were puzzling but, with some recent research, the situation is becoming clearer.
(Há um vídeo gratuito sobre algumas dessas pesquisas e a mecânica de como as alergias ocorrem em www.nailknowledge.org)
The Federation of Nail Professionals is in many conversations at Government level to look at the type of products that are causing problems. Trading Standards have a lot of reported information on unwanted symptoms.
However, anecdotal information is one thing but the authorities need ‘numbers’! With this in mind, #thefeds decided to create an ‘allergy survey’ to understand, in some way, the numbers that as alergias estão acontecendo com as unhas profissionais e seus clientes. Realizamos a pesquisa durante o mês de fevereiro e a compartilhamos da forma mais ampla possível. Tivemos cerca de 600 participantes no total (embora nem todos tenham respondido a todas as perguntas).
A pesquisa foi anônima e o relatório completo foi enviado ao Office of Product Safety and Standards (parte do BEIS). Devido aos fundos disponíveis, o #thefeds não conseguiu criar uma pesquisa e um relatório profissionais, portanto, o que temos é o melhor que pudemos fazer.
The biggest problem is the fact that so few with symptoms were able to get a dermatological patch test, as the NHS waiting list is 12-24 months, and a private consultation costs several £100’s.
A situação de pandemia piorou as coisas. Mas devo enfatizar que o problema era pré-pandêmico.
Com a dificuldade de descobrir exatamente quais ingredientes estavam causando os problemas (além de uma desastrosa falta de educação e compreensão), muitos continuaram experimentando marcas diferentes que, na verdade, apenas exacerbaram o problema.
However, I am able to share a lot of our findings. It isn’t easy reading!!
Fizemos muitas perguntas, primeiro sobre os profissionais de unhas e depois sobre seus clientes. Estes são alguns dos resultados:
Das 584 respostas, 28% tiveram reações indesejadas.
Mas apenas 12% receberam resultados dermatológicos (de 313 respostas).
This mostly is due to either lack of availability, private costs, or no inclination or time! This also means that allergic reactions are, largely, self-diagnosed!! Not only that, there is no information on exactly which ingredient/s are the cause! How can anyone without that diagnosis know what the way forward is? Trying out different brands is NOT the answer.
O tempo que levou para apresentar uma reação indesejada é maior entre menos de 6 meses e 6-12 meses! O 49% se enquadrou nessa faixa. Isso demonstra a rapidez com que isso pode acontecer! 18% levaram mais de 2 anos e 15% mais de 5 anos.
According to our survey, 74% used a matching UV lamp. This is a good result. However, it must be said that those taking the survey are mostly those that care about their career and clients, and are well educated. There are so many that are unreachable or are in total denial that matching systems MUST be used.
From the messages I receive, it is clear that both regulated and accredited courses have teachers who are also in denial about this important fact! (The new NOS addresses this massive issue).
Another interesting response is that, out of 247 responses, a massive 64% have changed brands! But have they changed to a brand that suits them and their clients? Hypoallergenic is good but there is no guarantee that no allergies will occur.
Of 487 responses, it is half that uses a HEMA-free brand. HEMA is NOT the ‘evil child’! It is the % that is key! BUT 89% have not experienced any unwanted reactions to HEMA free (323 responses).
Agora, vamos aos clientes. Um número enorme de 38% sofreram reações indesejadas!!! (de 591 respostas) Sem dúvida, são 30% a mais e, potencialmente, 38% de clientes perdidos! Infelizmente, muitos deles não passaram por testes de correção.
With regard to ‘home use’ or DIY’ers, from 314 responses, 24% have been those clients.
Assim como no caso dos profissionais de unhas, o período de tempo em que os clientes apresentaram sintomas, a maioria (48%) estava entre 0 e 12 meses.
There are a lot of responses on what symptoms have been exhibited. But in the absence of medically diagnosed symptoms, the majority are ‘recognised’ rather than diagnosed. Suffice to say that onycholysis, hyperkeratosis, irritated skin, blistered, itchy, dry, and cracked skin are the most common. Usually more than one of these together. The extreme reactions have been a totally destroyed nail plate.
O que é uma pena é que 63% (265 respostas) não entraram em contato com a marca. 94% (286 respostas) não entraram em contato com nenhuma autoridade. Parece que muitos leram muitas publicações nas mídias sociais e perceberam que essa ação não terá muito apoio. Infelizmente, isso também significa que as autoridades não têm ideia da extensão do problema para que possam agir!
Em outro projeto de pesquisa recente (disponível apenas para as autoridades), a conclusão é que:
– Isobornyl Acrylate (IBOA) and Hydroxymethyl Methacrylate (HEMA) in high percentages are the most common problems in the ingredients.
– Applying a coating too thickly causes an undercuring of the product.
– Using a mismatched UV lamp can cause undercuring.
– A high percentage of monomers has been proved to cause ‘leeching’ during the wearing of a coating if undercured. (Leeching is where unreacted monomers in the coating are escaping the coating onto the skin during normal wear, causing unwanted reactions.)
In conclusion, this epidemic can be pinpointed to a ‘perfect storm’ of imports (in the mid 2010s) that have a high percentage of monomers in their formulas PLUS a total lack of good education with the proliferation of ‘not fit for purpose’ short courses.
So many of these short courses are NOT qualifications. At best they are CPD (Continued Personal Development) that should follow a robust beginner course, whether regulated or accredited. Insurance underwriters and their brokers have made the whole situation much worse by purporting to insure the ‘CPD’ courses as ‘qualifications’ but not supporting claimants if needed. A few have blatantly admitted that, while people pay them, they will continue with this totally unethical practice.
Regulations for our sector WILL be coming in! It will take a while but it will involve regulated qualifications. Let us hope, by that time, the regulated qualifications Awarding Organisations will get their “houses in order” and provide qualifications that the sector can be confident in. They are NOT there yet!
The FNP is working tirelessly to make sure all of this will be ‘fit fr purpose’ for our sector. But we do need you to join! AND brands to financially support us! Do you want an industry in 10 years’ time??
This report deals with products and allergies. Please keep your eyes open for a video that will deal with the personal aspect of this situation. Those that have experienced mental health problems, lost their careers and £1000’s. Plus the perspective of a client. All of these interviews will be assessed by a medical health practitioner to explain the personal impact and how to deal with it. It isn’t all about the money. There are real people in real situations that are suffering from this situation.
Obrigado por ler. Estes são todos os fatos, e não há opiniões envolvidas.
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