Informações gerais

As a seasoned expert in cosmetic chemistry and nail product safety, I often encounter queries from professionals in the nail industry who are eager to understand how to ensure their products are not only effective but also compliant with stringent safety and regulatory standards.

One such question recently highlighted the challenges of developing a nail art paint using an airbrush medium labeled as non-toxic, yet lacking in transparency concerning its ingredients. This medium, combined with FDA-approved pigments, raises important considerations about the term “cosmetic grade” and what it truly entails for product safety and market readiness.

Neste artigo, abordarei os aspectos críticos da transparência dos ingredientes, da conformidade regulatória e dos desafios específicos associados à formulação e à rotulagem de produtos cosméticos no setor de unhas. O foco será ajudar os profissionais a navegar no complexo cenário regulatório, garantindo que seus produtos atendam aos padrões de segurança exigidos nos EUA e no exterior, e entender por que o conhecimento abrangente dos ingredientes e das regulamentações é essencial para o sucesso nesse campo. Ao esclarecer esses elementos, meu objetivo é capacitar os técnicos e fabricantes de unhas com o conhecimento necessário para produzir e vender com confiança produtos cosméticos seguros e em conformidade com as normas.

Navegando pela transparência dos ingredientes na rotulagem de produtos para unhas

This question covers a lot of territory, so I couldn’t tell you all that you need to know, but I’ll do my best to answer. I’m sure others have similar questions about this. 

First, “non-toxic” is a marketing term with no real definition, so don’t be impressed by this claim. Anyone who sells a cosmetic product is required to know the ingredients, so they can list them on the label and on the product’s Safety Data Sheet or SDS (aka MSDS). They also must make sure the ingredients are not prohibited and determine the proper ingredient name to place on the label. This information is obtained from the International Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI Dictionary) it’s a list of names for cosmetic ingredients. 

Product manufacturers must ensure that all ingredients used are listed on the label and the correct INCI name is used for all ingredients. It is unlikely that any cosmetic product would be allowed to avoid listing the ingredients by claiming that it’s a proprietary blend unless you have trade secret status and that is a hard claim to make if you don’t know the ingredients. Even so, without the ingredient listing, the product couldn’t be sold outside the US, because Europe, Canada, Australia, and Japan will all insist on knowing the ingredients. Also, anyone who brings a new cosmetic product to market is expected to ensure all ingredients are safe for cosmetic use and not restricted from use in cosmetics.

A importância da aprovação da FDA para corantes de grau cosmético em produtos para unhas

Since the nail technician who asked this question is in the USA, it would be very important for her to ensure the colorants and pigments are FDA approved for use, specifically in cosmetics. That’s what is meant when the term “cosmetic grade” is used. To keep from being repetitive, I’ll use the word “colorants” to mean anything that is intended to impart color, including liquid dyes and solid pigments. It is very important to understand that the FDA and other agencies in different countries have approved a large number of colorants, but most are not approved for cosmetic uses. They represent a different “grade of material” that is considered non-cosmetic grade.

This is usually due to the chemical composition of the substance and how it is intended to be used. Non-cosmetic colorants may not be safe for use in nail products, so they should be avoided. For instance, if a non-cosmetic pigment which is based on nickel were used in nail products, it could trigger allergic reactions in those with nickel allergies. It’s estimated that 1 in 10 women in the US have nickel allergies, largely from wearing inexpensive jewelry that is plated with nickel… so you see how this could be a problem.

Apenas alguns poucos corantes são considerados seguros para uso em cosméticos e muitos países regulamentam e controlam rigorosamente o uso de todos os corantes cosméticos. Somente aqueles especificamente aprovados para uso em cosméticos podem ser adicionados a qualquer produto cosmético, inclusive produtos para unhas artificiais. Aqueles que não são especificamente aprovados para cosméticos NÃO podem ser adicionados a cosméticos. A UE e outros países também têm requisitos semelhantes aos dos EUA, portanto, esse é um conceito universalmente aceito.

Garantia de conformidade com os padrões de segurança e rotulagem de produtos para unhas

Product sellers are also required to develop and actively distribute product Safety Data Sheets to nail professionals who use their products and to update these sheets regularly. Those are the basic requirements, but it is also important to know that all seller are responsible to provide safe product, as well as to provide safe usage directions, and any warnings or precautions.

As advertências e precauções DEVEM ser exibidas com destaque, o que significa que devem ser criadas de forma que os técnicos de unhas possam vê-las e lê-las. Todos nos EUA que vendem cosméticos devem embalá-los de acordo com a Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, que é a lei federal de rotulagem. Outros países têm seus próprios padrões de embalagem semelhantes. Mais informações sobre essa lei podem ser encontradas no site US Federal Trade Commission’s website and you use the handy search box feature search for the “Fair Packaging and Labeling Act”.

O papel crucial dos consultores regulatórios no setor de cosméticos para unhas

Minha recomendação para qualquer pessoa que esteja pensando em vender um produto cosmético no setor de unhas é encontrar um bom consultor regulatório para garantir que seus produtos e embalagens atendam aos requisitos de cada local/região onde seus produtos serão vendidos. Isso é muito importante. 

Você pode consultar uma das muitas associações de cosméticos, como a ICMAD ou a PCPC, para obter uma indicação. ICMAD é um acrônimo para Fabricantes e distribuidores independentes de cosméticos. O PCPC é o Conselho de Produtos de Cuidados Pessoais. Ambos têm sites e podem encaminhá-lo a especialistas em regulamentação com conhecimento.

There are rules and regulations in every country which must be adhered to.  Now you can see it’s a myth that cosmetics aren’t regulated. Ha!  There are so many regulations, some think too many, but for some there are never enough regulations.  Some are constantly trying to force unnecessary regulations on top of the existing ones, which in my view is a foolish waste of time and resources.

Complexidade das regulamentações de cosméticos e sua importância para a segurança do produto

Cosmetics are more heavily regulated than some activist’s groups would like you to believe.  I’m sure some of you are saying, I had no idea it was so complicated. And I’ll tell you the process is far more complicated that it seems. That’s why I recommend that anyone selling cosmetic products to seek the help of a professional who specializes in cosmetic regulations and make sure you are doing things right.  Regulations and standards for arts and crafts products are entirely different from cosmetic requirements. Some confuse the two and this should be avoided.  

Here’s what I mean- some have asked me why it isn’t safe to use art and craft colorants or glitters when the product’s website and literature and Safety Data Sheet say they are “safe” for use.  Some don’t understand that this means the colorants are safe for the “intended use” arts and crafts and that does NOT include cosmetic use. Just because these are safe for use in a craft project, doesn’t mean they are safe for nail products or other cosmetics.

A inalação de limalhas e poeiras que contêm corantes não cosméticos pode causar problemas para os técnicos de unhas. E a superexposição pode levar a reações alérgicas bastante graves. Sempre que um ingrediente é comprado para uso em um produto cosmético, o fabricante deve esclarecer a todas as empresas que o ingrediente é para uso em um cosmético e explicar a finalidade pretendida, para que o fabricante do ingrediente possa informá-las se ele foi aprovado para esse uso.  

Qualquer pessoa que fabrique ou venda cosméticos é obrigada a fazer muitas coisas, a maioria das quais ajuda a garantir que os produtos sejam seguros quando usados conforme as instruções. A fabricação e/ou venda de cosméticos é um negócio sério, com sérias responsabilidades, e é por isso que recomendo que todos os envolvidos garantam a conformidade com todos os requisitos.

In the ever-evolving world of nail care, the line between fact and fiction can often seem as fine as a freshly filed nail. One of the recurring challenges that both professionals and enthusiasts face is the abundance of misinformation swirling through the industry, from fellow nail technicians to the very manufacturers of our tools and products. A common concern, expressed poignantly by a reader, captures the essence of this struggle: ‘I do my research, but there is so much incorrect information coming from other nail technicians and even from manufacturers. How am I supposed to separate the facts from the myths?’

No NailKnowledge, abordamos continuamente os mitos e esclarecemos dúvidas por meio de uma infinidade de perguntas feitas por nossos leitores. Hoje, vamos nos aprofundar em alguns dos mitos mais arraigados para revelar as verdades escondidas sob o verniz brilhante da superfície.

Eliminando os mitos: O método socrático no cuidado com as unhas

Determining fact from fiction is an age-old problem that has existed since the beginning of civilization.  In other words, misinformation has always been a problem. The best solution to this dilemma was discovered about 2500 years ago by a Greek philosopher named Socrates. Socrates and the people living in his time didn’t have to deal with the all the baloney circulated on the Internet or by the news media, but they sure did have their own fair share of myths and misinformation to deal with. So, Socrates developed a method to help him get the facts and he taught this method to his followers.

Seu método foi tão bem-sucedido que as pessoas o utilizam regularmente até hoje! Esse método é usado por juízes, advogados, repórteres, detetives e cientistas que procuram fatos e pistas sobre os fatos, mas qualquer pessoa pode usar esse método porque ele é muito simples, mas altamente eficaz.

Socrates’s method can be boiled down to just these two words, “Question Answers”.  Yes, it is that simple, yet it is powerful! Don’t just accept what you are told. That is how nail technicians are often fooled. Instead, ask lots of questions, and keep asking until you are satisfied you fully understand. It’s all about the questions you ask.  Here are some examples for you to try.

Polimento da verdade: o poder das perguntas abertas no cuidado com as unhas

The best way to get answers is to ask open ended questions. Start with the simplest question of all…  Ask “Why”? Quando alguém lhe disser algo que você suspeita estar incorreto, faça a seguinte pergunta, “Why do you believe this is true?” E ouça atentamente a resposta para obter pistas sobre o que eles realmente estão dizendo.

Ou pergunte “How do you know this?” Outra pergunta interessante é, “Where does your information come from?” e “What does this mean?” Ou meu favorito, “Please help me understand why I should believe this?” Ou, “Why is this information important?” If you don’t understand their explanation say, “Explain that to me in a different way so that I can understand.”  Ou “What does that mean?”  Esses são apenas alguns exemplos do tipo de perguntas abertas que podem ajudá-lo a fazer uma pesquisa melhor e a obter um entendimento mais profundo sobre qualquer assunto.

Revelando camadas: O Poder Revelador das Perguntas Persistentes no Cuidado das Unhas

Those who don’t know what they are talking about will have a hard time answering such questions. Those who want to deceive you, will not like being questioned. In either case, if someone doesn’t know the facts, it will be obvious when these types of questions are asked.  And those who don’t want you to know the facts, will become uncomfortable.

When people ask me questions like this, I love it!  This provides an opportunity to explain in greater detail and lets me know the questioner is interested.  It’s an opportunity to provide more detailed information, which I always appreciate. Don’t stop asking “why” and “how” until you get to the root of the issue and feel you understand the facts. You’ll learn that some don’t know why they believe, they just do and will have no clear answer to your questions.

Além da superfície: A importância do questionamento no cuidado com as unhas

Finally, don’t just accept what you hear or read and don’t just look at the headlines and expect you know the facts. Headlines are often intended to fool people, since those writing the headlines know most won’t take the time to read the article and won’t ask questions. Many are afraid to ask questions, but now you understand the tricks used by professionals who ask questions for a living.

With practice, you’ll find it’s easy.  Take the time to Question Answers! And you’ll be the wiser for it. Like anything, it takes practice- so dig in and don’t give up until you get the answers to your questions.