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Informações gerais

Entendendo as lâmpadas de cura com flash e o gel sensível ao toque

With nail allergies on the rise, particularly contact dermatitis, it’s crucial to understand the tools and products available in the market, especially those marketed for DIY use. Flash cure lamps and touchable gel products are gaining popularity, often advertised by non-professional nail companies as superior to salon alternatives. This introduction aims to shed light on what flash cure lamps and touchable gels are, their benefits, and the considerations to keep in mind to ensure safe and effective use.

Limitações e usos das lâmpadas Flash Cure no tratamento de unhas

As lâmpadas de cura com flash não foram projetadas para curar adequadamente qualquer material de gel UV. Elas servem apenas para iniciar o processo de cura. polimerização mas isso deve ser feito em uma lâmpada de cura completa.

These are useful when applying fully covered tips so the tip is held in place until other fingers are done and the whole hand can go into a UV lamp for a proper cure. It can be seen that this is a long way away from a proper cure as the tip can be easily removed so the gel is still soft.

They are also useful for nail art when a design needs to be kept in place when using a low viscosity (runny) to stop it moving.

It should never be used for a full cure as virtually all UV cured material needs a minimum of 30 seconds, if not 60-90 seconds. It is very rare that cure time is less and if one is and the manufacturer says so it shouldn’t be viewed with suspicion.

Gel sensível ao toque: Manuseio e aplicações de gel curado por UV dobrável

Esse material curado por UV pode ser dobrado, o que o torna útil para determinadas aplicações, como a intrincada arte em 3D para unhas. Entretanto, como continua sendo um gel não curado, deve-se evitar o contato direto com a pele para evitar possíveis reações alérgicas. Devido ao seu estado não curado e ao risco de exposição da pele, não é adequado para pontas com cobertura total.

Esse gel também é útil para criar nail art em 3D. Os géis coloridos de alta viscosidade podem ser dobrados em formas complexas, mas esse processo deve ser feito sempre com o uso de luvas para evitar o contato com a pele. Devido à espessura e à opacidade desses géis, eles exigem um tempo de cura mais longo do que o normal para garantir que sejam curados adequadamente.

The term ’touchable’ is not a good term as it must not be touched with unprotected skin

Arquivado em: Informações gerais, Serviços para unhas, Gel UV

Entendendo as vedações protetoras do leito ungueal

We are constantly asked about the various protective features of the nail bed, particularly the roles of the hyponychium and the onychodermal band. Many wonder why there are two types of seals and how they differ from the solehorn.

Essa confusão geralmente decorre de ilustrações e explicações pouco claras.

Neste artigo, nosso objetivo é esclarecer esses conceitos explorando as intrincadas estruturas e funções dessas camadas protetoras. Entendendo as hiponíquioA faixa onicodérmica e o frequentemente incompreendido solehorn fornecerão uma visão mais clara de como eles contribuem para a saúde geral e a proteção do leito ungueal.

Esclarecendo o papel do epitélio do leito ungueal

Vedações protetoras do leito ungueal

I know this is confusing because many of the current illustrations are unclear and clarity is what is needed. Sandwiched between the nail plate and nail bed is an important, but very thin layer of tissue called the nail bed epithelium. 

Many don’t understand, but this paper-thin layer of tissue helps to guide the nail plate as it grows.  Interestingly, the bed epithelium adheres only to the underside of the nail plate and not to the nail bed itself. This allows the plate to glide smoothly across the nail bed allowing it to eventually reach the free edge and beyond. 

As the nail plate moves, the bed epithelium continues to tightly adhere to the underside of the nail plate, even as it moves past the finger and can be seen on the underside of the nail, still firmly attached. This tissue is usually removed during a manicure when cleaning up under the free edge. The tightly adhered tissue on the underside of the nail plate is still the “bed epithelium”, but some feel a need to give it a new name and they call it “solehorn”. 

Reevaluating the Term “Solehorn”: Why Proper Naming Matters

I don’t agree that this old-fashioned name should be used. Why?

Esse termo existia antes que a verdadeira origem desse tecido fosse devidamente compreendida. O solehorn não surge simplesmente do nada nem vem do hiponíquio, então por que deveria receber um nome diferente? Esse ainda é um tecido epitelial do leito e deve ser chamado por seu nome próprio.

Epitélio do leito aderido à parte inferior da borda livre.

Entendendo a faixa onicodérmica: Um efeito visual do epitélio do leito

The onychodermal band is NOT another kind of tissue even though it does form a distinct region. The onychodermal band is also created by the bed epithelium. How? As the bed epithelium moves with the nail plate, it must somehow squeeze past the hyponychium, which is the seal under the free edge that prevents pathogens from infecting the nail bed. It’s a tight squeeze getting past this seal, but the bed epithelium manages to squeeze past. In doing so, it becomes bunched up and doesn’t flow smoothly past the hyponychium. This “bunching” causes a rippling effect which creates a barrier that prevents penetration of substances from seeping past the hyponychium, so this helps to protect the nail bed.

In the zone preceding the hyponychium is where this bunch up of the bed epithelium occurs. This bunched up, rippled tissue produces a greyish zone called the onychodermal band.  Therefore, this is only a visual effect caused by the bunching up of the bed epithelium as it grows past the hyponychium.  You can’t see the onychodermal band by looking under the free edge, it’s not there. It is located underneath the nail plate and on the nail bed and can only be seen by looking though the nail plate and observing the grayish band that occurs just before the hyponychium.

Arquivado em: Informações gerais, Serviços para unhas

O impacto das bases removíveis na saúde das unhas

As bases removíveis oferecem uma solução conveniente para quem muda a cor das unhas com frequência, mas qual é o custo real dessa conveniência para a saúde de suas unhas?

Este artigo analisa os equívocos comuns e os riscos potenciais associados às camadas de base removíveis.

Revelando a verdade sobre os revestimentos de base removíveis

We are receiving a lot of questions from nail professionals regarding the safety of peel-off basecoats. A common inquiry concerns the correct method of removal: “Are peel-off basecoats safe as long as they are peeled from the base of the nail plate toward the tips, supposedly going with the grain of the keratin cells?”

If they did as you described, then they would be going “against the grain”, since any so-called grain in the nail would run across the width of the nail plate. Keratin fibers inside the nail cells lays across the width of the nail plate, which is why the nail plate typically splits across the width of the plate and not down the length. Therefore, the grain doesn’t seem to make a difference, at least when it comes to nail surface damage. People with healthy nail plates may not see damage when these base coats are used according to directions.  Even so, if the nail plate is already damaged, these peelable nail coatings can worsen existing damage. If the nail plates become dry-appearing or small white spots develop on the surface of the plate, then I would recommend that the wearer should discontinue use and/or reevaluate how they are using and removing these products. 

Como o uso inadequado de bases peel-off pode afetar a saúde das unhas

These types of peel-off basecoats are more likely to worsen existing nail surface damage, but it is very common that people ignore directions and do it “their way” and then blame the product when it doesn’t work.  Users will likely notice decreased wear time. In other words, they won’t get the same wear.  These basecoats are likely to shorten wear time by as much as 50%.  Often those who use these types of products are people who want to change their nail color often and doing so can also increase nail damage.

Arquivado em: Informações gerais, Loções, poções e esmaltes, Serviços para unhas

Entendendo as alegações de produtos para unhas no setor de beleza

O setor de beleza está repleto de produtos que prometem resultados milagrosos, desde o crescimento mais rápido das unhas até a força inquebrável. Mas até que ponto essas afirmações de marketing são verdadeiras?

Frequentemente recebemos perguntas sobre a eficácia dos produtos para unhas, especialmente aqueles que afirmam fortalecer as unhas ou evitar a quebra.

A typical example of a query we encounter a lot is: “I read in your book that nothing you can apply to the nails will make them grow faster or stronger, as this is determined by the nail matrix. However, some nail products claim to fuse together the nail plate layers to protect the nail and prevent cracking and breaking, stating that when they are used, the nail plate is stronger and grows longer. Is this a false claim? How could they possibly work?

We’ll also provide tips on how to interpret these claims accurately and when it might be worth reaching out to manufacturers for clarity. Let’s clear up the confusion on the above question and ensure that you’re fully informed about what you’re applying to your nails.

Decodificando as alegações de cosméticos: Força vs. Crescimento em Produtos para Cuidados com as Unhas

Ouço muito essa pergunta e ela é uma fonte constante de confusão. Os produtos cosméticos NÃO podem alegar legalmente que fazem com que a placa ungueal cresça mais rapidamente, mas não é isso que esses produtos alegam fazer.

When you carefully read the claims, and take the time to understand what is really being said, this becomes clear. These products don’t claim to make the nail grow faster. But they do claim to make the nail stronger.  These products reinforce the nail plates making them stronger which prevents them from breaking, so they can naturally grow longer.  Grow is the key word here.

Cosmetics can’t and don’t affect the way the nail plate grows. But they can reinforce the existing nail plate to make it stronger, so it can naturally grow longer. That is hugely different than saying the product makes the nail grow faster, which would be a false claim. Instead, these products claim to make the nail plate stronger, so it won’t break and can therefore naturally grow longer.

I think this is a valid claim. It pays to carefully read marketing claims to make sure you properly understand what’s being said and if you don’t understand, I suggest contacting the manufacturers to ask for a better explanation that you can understand.

Arquivado em: Informações gerais, Serviços para unhas

Natural vs. Nutrido: O Bare é melhor para suas unhas?

Exploring the realm of nail care often prompts many individuals to consider whether they should embellish their nails with the latest colors or maintain them in their natural state. With various care strategies at your disposal, choosing the optimal approach for maintaining healthy nails can sometimes feel overwhelming. In this blog, we’ll delve into the advantages and disadvantages of leaving your nails bare compared to using protective products like ridge fillers or base coats. Whether you’re a fan of a minimalistic look or thinking about adding a layer of protection, this guide will help you make an informed decision about your nail care routine.

 We frequently receive questions about whether it’s better to leave nails bare or use products like ridge fillers or base coats. It’s a common concern for many who want to maintain healthy and attractive nails without excessive use of products. Let’s break down the options to help you understand what might work best for you.

Os benefícios de manter as unhas sem maquiagem e bem hidratadas

Keeping your nails bare is a straightforward approach that avoids potential exposure to chemicals found in many nail products. These are not a problem if used according to the manufacturer’s instructions but it’s important to remember that after we reach the age of 21, our bodies ability to maintain moisture levels starts to decrease – so even when choosing no nail coating it’s important to focus on maintaining your nails’ natural state and ensuring they are well-moisturized and cared for. Regular use of a good quality nail oil and hand cream, as you’ve been doing, is excellent for keeping your nails and surrounding skin hydrated, which is crucial for healthy nails and healthy nail units. So that’s all fine just as long as you are consequent with that essential maintenance.

Vantagens de usar Ridge Fillers e Base Coats para proteção das unhas

However, there are benefits to using products like ridge fillers or base coats. These products do not inhibit any necessary physiological processes as nails do not “breathe.” Instead, they can provide a protective layer that guards against physical damage, enhance the appearance of your nails, and can even contribute to a more effective moisture level for the nail and the nail unit depending on the formulation.

For those considering using a protective product, it’s important to select formulas that are suited to your needs. This ensures you’re not trading one issue for another. That’s sometimes like looking for a needle in a haystack. Let’s put a few things in a row and see if it helps.

Escolhendo os produtos certos para a saúde ideal das unhas

O ressecamento da pele e das unhas é a razão número um para o agravamento das deformidades nas unhas e nas unidades ungueais. O problema é que o ressecamento pode ser causado por uma série de coisas, mas se deixarmos esse pensamento de lado por um minuto, podemos oferecer algumas soluções.

  • If your nails are weak – the cause could be that you have a short nail matrix, we can’t change that but a strengthener of some kind could be beneficial. Even then, cuidados com as unhas A manutenção é essencial.
  • If you nails split – the cause could be a weakness in the nail matrix that we cannot change but a soak off gel polish base and top coat with a piece of silk may be an option if you don’t mind wearing a nail coating. If you want to avoid a nail coating IBX would be the perfect solution as it works a bit like a support stocking, holding the nail plate cells together as the nail continues to grow. In both cases nail care maintenance is important. If none of those are an option nail care maintenance is essential.
  • If you have ridges in the nail plate these will be likely caused by mini defects of nail plate cells when they leave the nail matrix, you can use a ridge filler but not all of the time unless the ridge filler is flexible. If the ridge filler just makes your natural nail harder your nails will become brittle and you will experience a different kind of problem, your nail plates will just split and shatter – again, nail maintenance is important. The supplier of the ridge filler should be able to advise about how long the product should be used if not, don’t purchase it. Again, IBX could be the solution as this works IN the nail plate and NOT ON the nail plate.

For any or all of these problems an artificial nail product could be the solution – and if your salon of choice understand the products that they use they will match you and the product for a happy resolution but all of it will be a temporary fix – nails grow and our skin is in perpetual motion – again maintenance is paramount.

As opções são infinitas, mas os fatos permanecem os mesmos.

Etapas eficazes para gerenciar doenças crônicas das unhas

As condições crônicas que causam defeitos na placa ungueal ou problemas de pele não podem ser resolvidas, apenas podemos melhorar a aparência.

Etapa 1 When trying to improve ANY nail or skin conditions it’s essential to improve or maintain moisture levels – with something simple like a quality nail and skin oil and lotion to boot, the improvement can be lifechanging. If natural is important to you find a product containing allantoïne or urea and of course jojoba oil or avocado oil.

Etapa 2 Is knowing your habit’s.

Etapa 3 Faça a escolha certa para você.

Nail varnish can be a solution for dry nails as it also provides a coating over the natural nail, but not without nail maintenance and it will need to be replaced on a regular basis, but for weak nails it’s not an effective solution.

A clear soak off gel polish base and top coat could be a solution, but needs to be removed every 2-3 weeks depending on the condition of the natural nail and the recommended wear time of the product, maybe a couple of hrs. a month are needed to apply and remove and again nail care and maintenance are essential.

Using a nail coating that needs ‘filling’ could be a solution if your nail plates have pitting from psoriasis – in this case prep of the natural nail is paramount and filing of the nail plate before product application needs to be avoided as this will weaken the entire nail structure and this is when I go against the main stream and say acryl liquid and powder can be your best friend – by a correct and professional application – it will make a difference but remember that this is cosmetic, we didn’t cure the psoriasis – we just make the nails look better.

When it comes to removing any nail products, choosing an acetone-free remover will not solve the dryness problem. All solvents used to remove artificial nail coatings and or nail varnish will dry out the natural nail and or the nail unit. It may even take longer to remove or soak the nail coating off!

A nail polish remover containing acetone will remove your nail polish well. Wash your hands after with a neutral soap and water and apply a good quality nail and skin oil followed by a good lotion and your nail and skin moisture levels will be recovered – dryness from acetone is temporary and will not affect the health of your natural nail if you replenish it after.

Escolhendo entre unhas nuas e revestimentos protetores: Uma decisão pessoal

Ultimately, the decision to keep your nails bare or use a ridge filler or base coat depends on your personal preference, lifestyle, and the specific needs of your nails.

Ambas as abordagens têm seus méritos e, com os produtos e as práticas corretas, é possível manter unhas saudáveis e bonitas, quer você opte por usar as unhas nuas ou um produto protetor, desde que sua rotina de cuidados e manutenção faça parte de sua rotina diária.

Arquivado em: Informações gerais, Serviços para unhas

Efiles em pedicures: Equilíbrio entre eficiência e segurança

In the evolving landscape of pedicure techniques, the use of electronic files (efiles) for hard skin removal has sparked a significant shift in how professionals approach foot care. With the promise of efficiency and precision, efiles offer a modern alternative to traditional methods.

However, this technological advancement also raises questions about safety and best practices. As more nail technicians and spas adopt this tool, it’s crucial to understand the right techniques to ensure a safe and effective treatment. In this article, we’ll delve into the safe use of efiles for hard skin removal during pedicures, providing professional insights and tips to help both practitioners and clients achieve optimal results without compromising safety.

Identificação de causas de pele dura nos pés e diretrizes seguras para pedicure

It’s important to realize that there could be more than one reason for hard skin on the bottom of a foot. Several factors might contribute to this common condition, ranging from natural body mechanics to external environmental influences. For instance, repetitive pressure and friction, often caused by regular walking or ill-fitting shoes, can lead to the development of thickened skin as a protective response.

Additionally, underlying health issues such as diabetes or skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis might also manifest as hard skin on the feet.

Os elementos do estilo de vida, inclusive a hidratação insuficiente ou o excesso de tempo em pé, complicam ainda mais o quadro. Compreender as causas multifacetadas da pele dura é fundamental para abordar o problema de forma eficaz e escolher o tratamento ou as medidas preventivas adequadas.

I think its easier to say IF the client has a contra indication ie Diabetes, Chemotherapy, immunotherapy, Reuma or Rheumatoid arthritis that NO cosmetic service should be undertaken simply because the complications of going to far with an efile are realistic and should not be ignored.

As desvantagens de usar um arquivo eletrônico para pedicure: Uma perspectiva cautelosa

A vantagem de um arquivo eletrônico não está clara para mim. Uma lixa de pés de qualidade deve ser mais do que suficiente para um serviço cosmético, desde que você tenha usado um amaciante de calosidades conforme indicado pelo fabricante e, mesmo assim, é necessário deixar uma camada de pele endurecida no local para evitar a produção excessiva de mais células queratinizadas pelo corpo para se proteger, criando ainda mais problemas no serviço seguinte.

Com um arquivo eletrônico, se for aplicada muita pressão, o dano ao pé, mesmo que não seja intencional, pode causar extremo desconforto ao cliente e, pior ainda, infecção com todas as complicações que isso pode acarretar.

Just because everyone is doing it doesn’t mean it’s a good thing.

Gerenciamento eficaz de calosidades: Entendendo e tratando as causas básicas

When addressing issues of excessive callous or hard skin on a client’s feet, it’s essential to investigate and treat the underlying causes, rather than merely addressing the symptoms. This approach ensures that you’re not caught in a cycle of recurring problems.

The many questions we get on this subject highlights the need for a deeper understanding of the foot’s anatomy and the complexities of its skin layers before performing any procedures.

My advice to fellow professionals is straightforward: opt for a high-quality hand file coupled with an effective callous softener. This method not only maintains the integrity of the foot’s skin but also keeps your clients satisfied and healthy.

Arquivado em: Informações gerais, Serviços para unhas

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