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Información general

¿Confundido sobre el papel del pH en la adherencia de las uñas?

Let’s clear things up!

As I stated previously, only water has pH.

Exploración del papel del pH y los rayos UV en los promotores de la adhesión ungueal

When nail plate adhesion promoters are mixed with water, it is their effect on the water’s pH that is measured. When this is done the water can become alkaline, acidic or neutral. HEMA is well known for its adhesion promoting ability produces a neutral pH in water. Other adhesion promoters can make the water alkaline, some acidic. So, clearly pH does not determine if something is an adhesion promoter.

Yes, in some cases pH can play a small role, but so does UV. UV causes polymerization of the gel which certainly promotes adhesion, but UV has no pH. So, obviously, there is much more to adhesion, than pH.

Comprender la química de la adhesión del gel UV a las placas ungueales


La adherencia se debe a los ingredientes del gel UV. Muchos ingredientes son repelidos por la superficie de la lámina ungueal. Sin embargo, algunos son fuertemente atraídos por la superficie de la placa de la uña. ¿Por qué? Estos ingredientes crean enlaces químicos con la superficie de la placa de la uña, que es la razón de su atracción. Los enlaces químicos con la superficie de la placa de la uña es lo que causa la atracción y la adhesión, no el pH.

There are three main types of bonds, which I’ve listed in order of their adhesive strength.

1. Enlaces de hidrógeno son los más débiles, pero muchos de ellos pueden trabajar juntos para crear una cantidad significativa de fuerza de adhesión. Sin embargo, el calor, la humedad y la tensión mecánica pueden alterarlos fácilmente. Estos enlaces cambian constantemente de posición, por lo que no suelen ser muy fuertes, pero siguen teniendo una gran influencia y siempre desempeñan un papel útil.

2. Enlaces iónicos are stronger than hydrogen bonds and form by an attraction between opposite positive and negative charges on the ingredient and the nail plate’s surface. The strength of these can be influenced pH, in this way pH plays a small indirect role. These bonds, like hydrogen bonds can still be reversible.

3. Covalent bonds son, con diferencia, los más fuertes de los tres tipos de enlaces. Los enlaces covalentes son muy estables y resistentes a factores externos, por lo que proporcionan la adhesión más duradera y prolongada. Generalmente se consideran irreversibles, ya que requieren una energía significativa para romperlos.

Factores que influyen en la adherencia de los productos ungueales

Other factors also affect adhesion, such as how well the product can flow into small nooks and crannies, which is a property called “wetting”. This important property is improved by properly cleaning the nail plate. So, you can see many things, including the cleanliness and condition of the nail plate, affect adhesion. A well-designed nail product will often use a combination of these bonds to achieve the best possible adhesion.

Riesgos de las bases de gel ácidas en los productos para uñas

What about the so-called “acidic gel bases?

Algunos de ellos contienen ácido acrílico. Este ingrediente utiliza estos tres tipos de enlaces para mejorar la adherencia, aun así NO recomiendo utilizar productos que contengan este ingrediente. Es un fuerte irritante de la piel y probablemente es responsable de muchas reacciones alérgicas en la industria de las uñas. De hecho, estimo que es más probable que cause problemas en la piel que el HEMA.

Atención Evite el contacto con la piel y nunca lo utilice sobre una uña rota o agrietada.

Publicado en: Información general, Lociones, pociones y abrillantadores, Acabar con los mitos, Química del producto

Garantizar la seguridad y la conformidad de los productos cosméticos para las uñas

As a seasoned expert in cosmetic chemistry and nail product safety, I often encounter queries from professionals in the nail industry who are eager to understand how to ensure their products are not only effective but also compliant with stringent safety and regulatory standards.

One such question recently highlighted the challenges of developing a nail art paint using an airbrush medium labeled as non-toxic, yet lacking in transparency concerning its ingredients. This medium, combined with FDA-approved pigments, raises important considerations about the term “cosmetic grade” and what it truly entails for product safety and market readiness.

En este artículo, abordaré los aspectos críticos de la transparencia de los ingredientes, el cumplimiento de la normativa y los retos específicos asociados a la formulación y el etiquetado de productos cosméticos en el sector de las uñas. Me centraré en ayudar a los profesionales a navegar por el complejo panorama normativo, garantizando que sus productos cumplen las normas de seguridad exigidas en EE.UU. y en el extranjero, y comprendiendo por qué un conocimiento exhaustivo tanto de los ingredientes como de la normativa es esencial para tener éxito en este campo. Al aclarar estos elementos, mi objetivo es dotar a los técnicos y fabricantes de uñas de los conocimientos necesarios para producir y vender con confianza productos cosméticos seguros y conformes a la normativa.

La transparencia de los ingredientes en el etiquetado de los productos para las uñas

This question covers a lot of territory, so I couldn’t tell you all that you need to know, but I’ll do my best to answer. I’m sure others have similar questions about this. 

First, “non-toxic” is a marketing term with no real definition, so don’t be impressed by this claim. Anyone who sells a cosmetic product is required to know the ingredients, so they can list them on the label and on the product’s Safety Data Sheet or SDS (aka MSDS). They also must make sure the ingredients are not prohibited and determine the proper ingredient name to place on the label. This information is obtained from the International Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI Dictionary) it’s a list of names for cosmetic ingredients. 

Product manufacturers must ensure that all ingredients used are listed on the label and the correct INCI name is used for all ingredients. It is unlikely that any cosmetic product would be allowed to avoid listing the ingredients by claiming that it’s a proprietary blend unless you have trade secret status and that is a hard claim to make if you don’t know the ingredients. Even so, without the ingredient listing, the product couldn’t be sold outside the US, because Europe, Canada, Australia, and Japan will all insist on knowing the ingredients. Also, anyone who brings a new cosmetic product to market is expected to ensure all ingredients are safe for cosmetic use and not restricted from use in cosmetics.

La importancia de la aprobación de la FDA para los colorantes cosméticos en los productos para las uñas

Since the nail technician who asked this question is in the USA, it would be very important for her to ensure the colorants and pigments are FDA approved for use, specifically in cosmetics. That’s what is meant when the term “cosmetic grade” is used. To keep from being repetitive, I’ll use the word “colorants” to mean anything that is intended to impart color, including liquid dyes and solid pigments. It is very important to understand that the FDA and other agencies in different countries have approved a large number of colorants, but most are not approved for cosmetic uses. They represent a different “grade of material” that is considered non-cosmetic grade.

This is usually due to the chemical composition of the substance and how it is intended to be used. Non-cosmetic colorants may not be safe for use in nail products, so they should be avoided. For instance, if a non-cosmetic pigment which is based on nickel were used in nail products, it could trigger allergic reactions in those with nickel allergies. It’s estimated that 1 in 10 women in the US have nickel allergies, largely from wearing inexpensive jewelry that is plated with nickel… so you see how this could be a problem.

Sólo unos pocos colorantes se consideran seguros para su uso en cosméticos y muchos países regulan y controlan estrechamente el uso de todos los colorantes cosméticos. Sólo los aprobados específicamente para su uso en cosmética pueden añadirse a cualquier producto cosmético, incluidos los productos para uñas artificiales. Los que no están específicamente aprobados para cosméticos NO pueden añadirse a los cosméticos. La UE y otros países también tienen requisitos similares a los de EE.UU., por lo que se trata de un concepto universalmente aceptado.

Garantizar el cumplimiento de las normas de seguridad y etiquetado de los productos para las uñas

Product sellers are also required to develop and actively distribute product Safety Data Sheets to nail professionals who use their products and to update these sheets regularly. Those are the basic requirements, but it is also important to know that all seller are responsible to provide safe product, as well as to provide safe usage directions, and any warnings or precautions.

Las advertencias y precauciones DEBEN figurar en un lugar destacado, lo que significa que deben crearse de forma que los técnicos de uñas puedan verlas y leerlas. En EE.UU., todo el que venda cosméticos debe envasarlos de acuerdo con la Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (Ley de envasado y etiquetado justos), que es una ley federal de etiquetado. Otros países tienen sus propias normas de envasado similares. Para más información sobre esta ley, visite la página web US Federal Trade Commission’s website and you use the handy search box feature search for the “Fair Packaging and Labeling Act”.

El papel crucial de los asesores reguladores en el sector de los cosméticos para uñas

Mi recomendación a cualquiera que esté pensando en vender un producto cosmético en el sector de las uñas es que busque un buen asesor en materia de reglamentación para asegurarse de que sus productos y envases cumplen los requisitos de cada lugar/región donde se vendan sus productos. Esto es muy importante. 

Puedes consultar a una de las muchas asociaciones de cosméticos, como la ICMAD o la PCPC, para que te recomienden a alguien. ICMAD es el acrónimo de Fabricantes y distribuidores independientes de cosméticos. El PCPC es el Consejo de Productos de Cuidado Personal. Ambos tienen sitios web y pueden remitirle a especialistas en normativa.

There are rules and regulations in every country which must be adhered to.  Now you can see it’s a myth that cosmetics aren’t regulated. Ha!  There are so many regulations, some think too many, but for some there are never enough regulations.  Some are constantly trying to force unnecessary regulations on top of the existing ones, which in my view is a foolish waste of time and resources.

La complejidad de la normativa sobre cosméticos y su importancia para la seguridad de los productos

Cosmetics are more heavily regulated than some activist’s groups would like you to believe.  I’m sure some of you are saying, I had no idea it was so complicated. And I’ll tell you the process is far more complicated that it seems. That’s why I recommend that anyone selling cosmetic products to seek the help of a professional who specializes in cosmetic regulations and make sure you are doing things right.  Regulations and standards for arts and crafts products are entirely different from cosmetic requirements. Some confuse the two and this should be avoided.  

Here’s what I mean- some have asked me why it isn’t safe to use art and craft colorants or glitters when the product’s website and literature and Safety Data Sheet say they are “safe” for use.  Some don’t understand that this means the colorants are safe for the “intended use” arts and crafts and that does NOT include cosmetic use. Just because these are safe for use in a craft project, doesn’t mean they are safe for nail products or other cosmetics.

La inhalación de limaduras y polvos que contienen colorantes no cosméticos puede causar problemas a los técnicos de uñas. Y la sobreexposición puede provocar reacciones alérgicas bastante graves. Siempre que se compre un ingrediente para utilizarlo en un producto cosmético, el fabricante debe aclarar a todas las empresas que el ingrediente se va a utilizar en un cosmético y explicar el fin previsto para que el fabricante del ingrediente pueda informarles de si está aprobado para ese uso.  

Cualquiera que fabrique o venda cosméticos está obligado a hacer muchas cosas, la mayoría de las cuales contribuyen a garantizar la seguridad de los productos cuando se utilizan según las indicaciones. Fabricar y/o vender un cosmético es un negocio serio con responsabilidades serias, por lo que recomiendo a todos los implicados que se aseguren de cumplir todos los requisitos.

Publicado en: Información general, Acabar con los mitos

Clavar la verdad: cómo separar la realidad de la ficción en el cuidado de las uñas

In the ever-evolving world of nail care, the line between fact and fiction can often seem as fine as a freshly filed nail. One of the recurring challenges that both professionals and enthusiasts face is the abundance of misinformation swirling through the industry, from fellow nail technicians to the very manufacturers of our tools and products. A common concern, expressed poignantly by a reader, captures the essence of this struggle: ‘I do my research, but there is so much incorrect information coming from other nail technicians and even from manufacturers. How am I supposed to separate the facts from the myths?’

En NailKnowledge, abordamos continuamente los mitos y aclaramos las dudas a través de un sinfín de preguntas planteadas por nuestros lectores. Hoy nos adentramos en algunos de los mitos más arraigados para revelar las verdades que se esconden bajo el brillante barniz de la superficie.

Acabar con los mitos: El método socrático en el cuidado de las uñas

Determining fact from fiction is an age-old problem that has existed since the beginning of civilization.  In other words, misinformation has always been a problem. The best solution to this dilemma was discovered about 2500 years ago by a Greek philosopher named Socrates. Socrates and the people living in his time didn’t have to deal with the all the baloney circulated on the Internet or by the news media, but they sure did have their own fair share of myths and misinformation to deal with. So, Socrates developed a method to help him get the facts and he taught this method to his followers.

¡Su método fue tan extremadamente exitoso que la gente lo utiliza regularmente hasta el día de hoy! Este método es utilizado por jueces, abogados, reporteros, detectives y científicos en busca de hechos y pistas sobre los hechos, pero cualquiera puede utilizar este método porque es muy simple, pero muy eficaz.

Socrates’s method can be boiled down to just these two words, “Question Answers”.  Yes, it is that simple, yet it is powerful! Don’t just accept what you are told. That is how nail technicians are often fooled. Instead, ask lots of questions, and keep asking until you are satisfied you fully understand. It’s all about the questions you ask.  Here are some examples for you to try.

Pulir la verdad: el poder de las preguntas abiertas en el cuidado de las uñas

The best way to get answers is to ask open ended questions. Start with the simplest question of all…  Ask “Why”? Cuando alguien te diga algo que sospechas que es incorrecto, hazle esta pregunta, “Why do you believe this is true?” Y escucha atentamente su respuesta en busca de pistas sobre lo que realmente están diciendo.

O pregunta “How do you know this?” Otra pregunta interesante es, “Where does your information come from?” y “What does this mean?” O mi favorito personal, “Please help me understand why I should believe this?” O, “Why is this information important?” If you don’t understand their explanation say, “Explain that to me in a different way so that I can understand.”  O “What does that mean?”  Éstos son sólo algunos ejemplos del tipo de preguntas abiertas que pueden ayudarle a investigar mejor y a profundizar en cualquier tema.

Descubriendo capas: El poder revelador de las preguntas persistentes en el cuidado de las uñas

Those who don’t know what they are talking about will have a hard time answering such questions. Those who want to deceive you, will not like being questioned. In either case, if someone doesn’t know the facts, it will be obvious when these types of questions are asked.  And those who don’t want you to know the facts, will become uncomfortable.

When people ask me questions like this, I love it!  This provides an opportunity to explain in greater detail and lets me know the questioner is interested.  It’s an opportunity to provide more detailed information, which I always appreciate. Don’t stop asking “why” and “how” until you get to the root of the issue and feel you understand the facts. You’ll learn that some don’t know why they believe, they just do and will have no clear answer to your questions.

Más allá de la superficie: La importancia del cuestionamiento en el cuidado de las uñas

Finally, don’t just accept what you hear or read and don’t just look at the headlines and expect you know the facts. Headlines are often intended to fool people, since those writing the headlines know most won’t take the time to read the article and won’t ask questions. Many are afraid to ask questions, but now you understand the tricks used by professionals who ask questions for a living.

With practice, you’ll find it’s easy.  Take the time to Question Answers! And you’ll be the wiser for it. Like anything, it takes practice- so dig in and don’t give up until you get the answers to your questions.

Publicado en: Información general, Acabar con los mitos

Cianoacrilato: Su doble función como pegamento y gel en los productos para uñas

Terminology can often become a point of confusion among professionals and clients alike. A common query we encounter pertains to the use of the term “gel” in relation to products containing cyanoacrylate. A compound traditionally recognized as a type of glue. This issue underscores a broader challenge in the industry: understanding the distinctions and overlaps between different product categories.

Este artículo pretende aclarar estos matices, explorando cómo un ingrediente puede encajar en múltiples definiciones de producto, y por qué un lenguaje preciso es crucial en la industria de la belleza para mejorar la profesionalidad y reducir los malentendidos.

Usos versátiles de los cianoacrilatos en la industria de la belleza

Cyanoacrylates are monomers from the acrylic family that are used for many purposes in the beauty industry. For instance, they are used as tip adhesives for nails, used to adhere rhinestones and other accessories to nails, they’re also used to create fiberglass and silk wraps, and they are regularly used as eyelash adhesives.  They are also sold as “no-light nail gels” and for so-called “dip” systems. 

In all cases, they are considered adhesives, since they stick to the nail plate and more commonly they are called “glue”.  Cyanoacrylates can be thin and watery or thickened to a gel-like consistency.  Some mistake the term “gel” to mean only UV-curing gels. UV curing gels are called “gels” because of their gel-like consistency. In other words, not all gels are UV-curing.  The word “gel” describes the consistency of the product, not its chemistry or composition.

Hair gels for instance are thickened to a high viscosity, which is why they’re called gels. Therefore, it is entirely proper to refer to a thickened cyanoacrylate as a gel.  Nail professionals should understand that not all gels are UV curing gels. That’s why when referring to UV gels, they should not just be called “gels”- which is an overly simplistic name. 

La importancia de una terminología precisa en el cuidado profesional de las uñas

Este es un buen ejemplo de por qué es importante utilizar términos más descriptivos cuando se habla de productos para las uñas, aunque sólo sea para reducir la confusión.

Another example of this are the sophisticated, high tech monomer blends used to create artificial nail products.  These products are among the most scientifically advanced products in the beauty industry, yet nail professionals refer to them as “liquid”. The polymer powders are equally sophisticated and complex, yet they are simply called “powders”.

If nail techs want clients to recognize them as professionals, they would be wise to use more professional terms, such as UV gel, monomers and polymers.

Publicado en: Información general, Lociones, pociones y abrillantadores

Manicuras antes que mejoras: Construir una base sólida

No es buena idea saltarse la obtención de un título de manicura y pasar directamente al esmalte de gel UV o a las mejoras.

Es como aprender a teñir el pelo sin entender de pelo.

Por qué es esencial la formación en manicura

Una cualificación en manicura no es un curso de un día. Hay mucha anatomía y fisiología que aprender (y no sólo leer), condiciones de las uñas y la piel, incluidas las que se consideran contraindicaciones. También hay que practicar mucho la manicura, incluida la pintura. Lo ideal sería realizar varios casos prácticos, ya que cada persona es diferente. Los casos prácticos deben seguir un plan de tratamiento que pueda modificarse en caso necesario. Las horas lectivas recomendadas para la cualificación regulada de Realización de un tratamiento de manicura son 50 horas o más.

Colmar las lagunas de la formación tradicional en manicura

It is becoming obvious from questions being asked on SM platforms that manicure training is being skipped. Many nail professionals don’t know how to use traditional nail polish (it dries too quickly when they are used to using UV gel polish), they are unaware of common nail and skin conditions and do not know how to give good home care advice.

La manicura es la base de todos los servicios de uñas. No se salte este importante primer paso.

Publicado en: Información general, Servicios de uñas

Las verdaderas causas del amarilleamiento de las uñas

Desvelar el misterio del amarilleamiento de las uñas

We often receive questions about nail care issues that both perplex and frustrate professionals and clients alike. One recurring topic that sparks a lot of curiosity and concern revolves around nail plate yellowing. Many believe that this discoloration is primarily caused by the pigments in nail polish. However, recent inquiries and expert insights suggest that other elements, such as nitrocellulose and various colorants, might play a significant role.

Este artículo se adentra en los entresijos de las causas reales del amarilleamiento de las placas de las uñas, con el respaldo de análisis de expertos y conocimientos del sector, para arrojar luz sobre este problema común pero mal entendido.

Comprender la decoloración de las uñas: Colorantes y su impacto

Pigments are not likely to stain the nail plate. They are too large to penetrate. Dyes and Lakes are other types of colorants that are often used, and many can and DO stain the nail plate. There are three different reds and one yellow colorant that have been reported as the most likely to stain the nail plate. The reds colorants are listed on product ingredient label as Red no. 6, Red no. 7, or Red no. 34.  In the European Union, all three of these red colorants would be sold under their color index number “15850”. The yellow that is reported to cause a lot of staining is Yellow #5 Lake, which in the European Union is labelled as “19140”.

El papel de la nitrocelulosa en el amarilleamiento de las uñas: La calidad importa

It is true that some grades of nitrocellulose can stain as well.  But the more expensive, higher quality grades are much less likely to discolor. Smaller companies that don’t sell much nail polish often use these inferior grades, since the best grades are too expensive when purchased in low quantities and the larger companies buy up all the high-quality nitrocellulose. When it does stain, nitrocellulose tends to be a more brownish-yellow stain, while discoloration caused by colorants tend to be the light yellowish tones or other odd shades, such as green.

Examen de las capas base: Nitrocelulosa y vulnerabilidad de la placa ungueal

If this base coat contained nitrocellulose and no colorants, the nitrocellulose is a possible suspect. However, a high-quality base coat should not stain the nail plate, unless its surface is damaged. Damaged nail plates are much more likely to pick up stains, even from some foods stains or clothing. Damaged nail plates will absorb stains more easily than healthy nail plates. To say the nitrocellulose is responsible for nail yellowing is an over simplification. Marketers tend to oversimplify things for three reasons,

  • They don’t understand the issues, so instead of giving the facts they just keep it simple to hide their lack of understanding.
  • Many nail techs often don’t understand these issues, so the message must be kept simple.
  • Los profesionales del marketing se centran sólo en lo que les ayuda a vender sus productos y a menudo exageran la información.

It is definitely an over simplification to say that nitrocellulose is what stains the nail plate. More likely the causes are “dyes” and “lakes”.

Publicado en: Información general, Afecciones de las uñas

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