Informações gerais

Nail Prep, um tamanho NÃO serve para todos!

Há muitas perguntas do tipo: I do the same nail prep for all but a couple of my clients keep getting chips or lifting.

A resposta a esse problema está na pergunta. Essa é a mesma preparação para todos. Isso não funciona, pois as unhas e o estilo de vida de cada um são diferentes.

Isso começa com um entendimento muito bem fundamentado da condição das unhas e estilo de vida.

Construindo bases sólidas para aprimoramentos e polimento com gel UV

Se as unhas são finas e/ou fracas from previous damage, over buffing or naturally thin then that client may not be suitable for enhancements or UV gel polish. You cannot build a strong structure on weak foundations.

The client may need a course of treatment that strengthens the nail plate first. Most brands have a nail-strengthening treatment (this is different from a hardener as this will cause a different problem). Those that have keratin in an oil or one that penetrates the nail plate and strengthens from the inside.

Pode ser que um base de borracha can work as it should be flexible enough to move with the weak nail and not against it. But a rubber base will not suit all clients and trying another brand will involve a new lamp so try using it much thinner or applying two thin layers. If you are using all the same brand it can sometimes work by putting a thin base de borracha entre as camadas de cor, o que dá mais resistência. Se fizer isso, tome cuidado com a espessura em torno das bordas do revestimento, pois ele pode facilmente parecer desagradavelmente espesso.

Muitos problemas de preparação das unhas envolvem a necessidade de adesão extra

Isso tem várias causas:

algumas unhas têm cutícula much higher up the nail than expected, even as far as halfway up. Every particle of this must be removed gently for adhesion of any coating. With a cuticle remover tool (with experience) you will be able to feel what is skin and what is nail so start much further up the nail when removing but be careful not to dig into the nail plate and cause a ridge.
Every brand should have a cleanser and/or a dehydrator. You may use this on all 10 nails at the same time but sometimes, if the oil is especially oily, the answer is to dehydrate one nail at a time and apply the coating which will be applied to a perfectly dehydrated nail before natural oils and moisture have reached the surface again.

Some brands have additional adhesion enhancers such as a primer. Use this on the lifters but do not be tempted to use a product from another brand as it may not be compatible with the colour and will cause it to lift. Most primers need a minimal application and are allowed to air dry before moving on. Some may need curing. Always follow the instructions.

As unhas que são excessivamente oleosas representam um desafio. A solução, como explicado anteriormente, é desidratá-las uma de cada vez.

Some nails are too hard especially when they have no surface damage. This type of nail may need extra buffing with a slightly harder grit (lower grit number) than other nails as they need a bit of help with the adhesion as all adhesives penetrate into the top couple of nail layers for a good grip. If this is needed be careful to buff or file any more than necessary as the nail will eventually become thin and weak and cause a different problem.

Using UV gel polish is a skill that is more similar to applying enhancements than using regular nail polish (which many have lost or not learned the skill of applying as it dries too quickly for them)

Aperfeiçoando o ápice da unha para obter unhas mais fortes

Every coating needs an apex for strength to avoid breaking or bending (which happens often to weak nails with a free edge and causes lifting) Always create an apex. This is usually over the onychodermal band but maybe a little nearer the base of the nail for a longer nail. If you are not skilled at creating an apex, when you have applied the second colour coat, turn the clients hand over parallel to the desk top which allows gravity to pull the uncured coating from the sides and it into a natural apex over the centre of the nail.

Orientando as clientes quanto ao comprimento e à saúde das unhas

Some clients want the nails to be longer than is practical for their lifestyle. If they are too long they will break often and need to be shorter. If a client breaks nail and the nail plate is torn from the nail bed this is because the coating is too thick and strong! The coating must break before the nail does.

If a client insists on nails too long for them remind them you are the professional in this relationship and you are advising them for the health of their nails. Even a crack in the nail plate can let pathogens in and cause long-term problems.

É seu dever profissional fazer uma avaliação precisa das unhas de cada cliente e oferecer o melhor tratamento preparatório para as unhas com base em seu conhecimento e habilidade, e não culpar o produto.

A ciência por trás do óleo para cutículas de unhas

The science behind nail cuticle oil is as intriguing as it is essential for maintaining healthy, beautiful nails. This seemingly simple product plays a crucial role in nail & hand care routines, and its effectiveness goes beyond its pleasant scent and moisturizing properties. Let’s delve into the fascinating science behind nail & skin óleo.

Nail Cuticle & Skin Oil and Hydration

At its core, nail oil is all about hydration. The skin surrounding your nails, including the nail bed, is much more important than you might think. It acts as a natural barrier, preventing bacteria and other foreign invaders from infiltrating your nails’ matrix, the place where nail growth originates. The 4 Guardian Seals (cuticle (non-living tissue), 2 lateral nail folds and the hiponíquio) are the most, but not the only important skin barrier in and around the nail unit.

TCiência: Skin and nails require moisture to maintain their health and integrity. Dehydrated skin is more prone to splitting which creates microscopic openings for opportunistic pathogens but also to sunburn and other forms of UV damage. Hydration can help protect your skin from the sun’s harmful rays and possible negative effects of the UV LED lights that we use when curing our artificial nail products.

Também é importante reconhecer que todos nós temos nosso próprio conjunto de microbiomas exclusivos e que encontramos microbiomas transitórios em e de outras pessoas ao nosso redor. Esses microbiomas incríveis fazem parte de nossa proteção, nossa pele e unhas são seu ambiente de vida e também precisam ser protegidos para que eles possam nos proteger.

Nail & Skin oil typically contains a blend of nourishing oils like jojoba, almond, and avocado but can also contain ingredients such as y-Tocopherol (a natural non synthetic form of vitamin E). These oils are rich in essential fatty acids that not only penetrate the nail plate & skin but also provide a protective layer sealing in moisture and preventing dehydration that can lead to brittle nails and unsightly hangnails. Avoid nail & skin oils with synthetic preservatives, scents or colouring.

A ciência aqui é simples, mas eficaz: Prevenir a perda de água transepidérmica é a chave: unhas e pele hidratadas significam unhas e pele mais saudáveis. A pele e as unhas saudáveis podem se defender contra microorganismos invasivos.

Estimular a circulação sanguínea

Um dos aspectos intrigantes de um produto de boa qualidade óleo para unhas e pele é sua capacidade de penetrar the nail plate, helping the bed epithelium (also non-living tissue) to remain flexible, ensuring proper transport of the nail plate along the nail bed but also helping to keep our very special nail beds in optimal condition. It’s important to remember that the nail bed has to reabsorb the old skin cells as they cannot sloth off, this makes the nail bed react quickly when all is not as it should be causing nasty problems such as hyperkeratosis which can also be painful.

A ciência: When you massage nail & skin oil into your nails and skin, you’re not only delivering nourishing ingredients but also stimulating blood circulation. Improved blood flow means more nutrients and oxygen reaching a matriz de unhas, where new nail cells are formed. This enhanced circulation can help nail growth and make your nails appear healthier and more vibrant. It’s like giving your nails a mini spa treatment, all thanks to the science behind the oil.

Proteção contra fatores de estresse ambiental

Our nails face numerous challenges in their daily lives, from exposure to harsh chemicals to the wear and tear of everyday activities. Nail & skin oil acts as a protective shield, guarding your nails against these external stressors.

A ciência: The oils and ingredients in oil form a barrier just below the surface of your skin and penetrates your nails, shielding them from environmental pollutants, water, and chemicals found in cleaning products. Think of it as a protective force field for your nails, helping to prevent the penetration of water, damage and breakage. This protection is an essential aspect of nail care that often goes unnoticed but is crucial for maintaining strong, beautiful nails, but especially nails that are crowned with gorgeous artificial nail products or your favourite nail polish.

Flexibilidade e prevenção de quebras

As unhas precisam ser flexíveis para suportar as atividades diárias sem se quebrar como um galho frágil. Óleo para cutículas de unhas contribui para a flexibilidade e a resistência de suas unhas, reduzindo o risco de quebra.

A ciência: Um óleo de boa qualidade pode penetrar nas placas das unhas, tornando-as mais flexíveis e menos propensas a rachar ou quebrar. Imagine isso como um exercício de fortalecimento das unhas, ajudando-as a se curvar sem quebrar.

Melhorando a adesão do esmalte de unha

Assim como um a camada de base é essencial para um esmalte de unha adequado adhesion, oil plays a role in ensuring your manicure lasts longer. Your well-hydrated nails will provide a better surface for nail polish application, leading to smoother and more durable results.

A ciência: When you apply nail polish or your favourite artificial nail product on hydrated nails, it adheres better and spreads evenly. This means fewer streaks and chips in your manicure. Oil’s moisturizing properties create an ideal foundation for your nail polish or artificial nail products, enhancing their longevity. It’s like providing a smooth, moisturized canvas for a masterpiece.

Don’t forget to wash your hands first and to use a good quality nail plate cleanser that removes surface minerals that can affect adhesion but also ingredients that remove surface oils and other fluids so that your product of choice adheres well.

Dica: After soaking off your artificial nails or removing nail polish with nail polish remover your nails and skin will look dry because acetone or other solvents in the remover have broken down or removed your product, a dose of oil here now will help replenish any lost moisture and or oil in your nails and your skin.

Nutrindo beleza e força

The science behind nail & skin oil involves a harmonious blend of hydration, protection, stimulation, and strengthening. This unassuming product packs a punch when it comes to nail & skin care, working behind the scenes to keep your nails healthy, flexible, and beautiful. So, the next time you indulge in a relaxing oil massage, remember that you’re not just pampering your nails; you’re embracing the science that keeps them in top-notch condition. Your nails will thank you with strength, resilience, and a stunning appearance that lasts.

A ciência por trás do revestimento superior para unhas

Nail care goes beyond simply choosing the right nail polish color; it’s a captivating blend of science and art that produces incredible results. And in this exciting world of nail products, the unsung hero is none other than the humble nail top coat. Shall we have a look at the fascinating science behind this unassuming yet essential finishing touch.

O acabamento brilhante do revestimento superior para unhas

We all adore that mirror-like shine that a good top coat provides. But have you ever wondered how it works its magic? At its core, a top coat is designed to deliver a high-gloss finish that not only enhances the manicure but also offers protection.

A ciência: Top coats contain film-forming ingredients that create a transparent shield over your nail polish. These ingredients are usually quick-drying and formulated to produce a gleaming surface. Think of it as a protective glass layer, made to preserve and enhance the colours beneath.

Durabilidade e resistência a lascas

The last thing we want is for our perfect nail art or vibrant colour to chip or fade prematurely. A top coat plays a pivotal role in extending the life of your manicure, ensuring it stays intact for longer.

A ciência: The formulation of a top coat often includes hardening agents like acrylic or polymer resins. These substances provide strength and resilience to your nail polish, making it more resistant to the wear and tear of daily life. It’s like giving your nails an invisible suit of armor.

Aceleração do tempo de secagem do Nail Top Coat

Esperar que suas unhas sequem pode parecer uma eternidade, mas uma cobertura pode ajudar a acelerar o processo.

A ciência: Muitos top coats são projetados com fórmulas de secagem rápida que fazem sua mágica evaporando rapidamente. Isso não apenas economiza seu precioso tempo, mas também reduz as chances de borrar ou amassar as unhas recém-pintadas.

Prevenção de desbotamento e descoloração

A luz solar e as atividades diárias podem fazer com que o esmalte das unhas desbote ou mude de cor com o tempo. Uma boa cobertura para unhas pode ajudar.

A ciência: Some top coats include UV filters or colour stabilisers that help shield your manicure from the harmful effects of sunlight. They act as a barrier against the elements, preserving the vibrancy of your nail polish. This is true for gel top coats too!

Nail Top Coat Smoothing Imperfections (Top Coat para Unhas que Suaviza Imperfeições)

If you’ve ever had a slightly uneven nail polish application, a top coat can be your saviour. It helps in smoothing out minor imperfections, giving your manicure a polished look.

A ciência: As camadas superiores podem conter ingredientes autonivelantes para suavizar superfícies irregulares, garantindo que suas unhas pareçam perfeitas e bem acabadas.

Longevidade e brilho do revestimento superior para unhas

A top coat isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about making your manicure last.

A ciência: The chemistry of a top coat involves the careful selection of ingredients to achieve not only a high-gloss finish but also long-lasting wear. It’s the science of balance, combining elements that deliver both shine and durability.

In conclusion, the seemingly simple nail top coat is a masterpiece of science and artistry. It enhances the beauty of your nails, protects your manicure, and ensures your nail art stays flawless. The next time you apply a top coat, you’ll have a deeper appreciation for the science that transforms your nails into dazzling works of art.

Passo a passo: Como consertar um amassado em seu esmalte de unha

The key is to ‘float’ the new color over the dent
When applying top coat, load your brush just enough that you dont have to go back over it – this will give the perfect finish.

Reaplicar suavemente, sem pressão no pincel — Revestimento colorido danificado

FAQ’s

1. Qual é a finalidade de uma cobertura para unhas?
A nail top coat serves several essential purposes in nail care. It provides a glossy finish, enhances the longevity of your manicure, protects nail polish from chipping, and can also add strength to your nails. Essentially, it’s the final step that seals and perfects your nail look.

2. Como aplico uma cobertura de unhas para obter os melhores resultados?
Para obter os melhores resultados com uma cobertura para unhas, siga estas etapas:

Espere até que o esmalte esteja quase seco (mas não totalmente) antes de aplicar a camada superior.
Apply a thin, floaty layer of top coat, starting from the base and ending with a gentle swipe along the tips of your nails to seal the edges.
Deixe a camada superior secar completamente para obter um acabamento brilhante e resistente a lascas.

3. Posso usar um esmalte transparente comum como cobertura?
While regular clear nail polish can provide some protection and shine, it’s not as effective as a dedicated nail top coat. Top coats are specifically formulated with ingredients like quick-drying resins and UV filters to provide superior gloss, durability, and protection. Using a specialized top coat will yield better results.

4. Com que frequência devo reaplicar uma cobertura de unhas?
To maintain the longevity and shine of your manicure, it’s a good practice to reapply a nail top coat every few days. This helps refresh the gloss and adds an extra layer of protection to prevent chipping and fading. You can also apply a fresh top coat as part of your regular nail maintenance routine when you notice signs of wear and tear.

A ciência por trás das placas de unhas secas e rachadas em detalhes

First and foremost, let’s delve into the intricate science behind dry and split nail plates. Let’s understand the balance of oil and water within the nail plate and how it influences the health and strength of your nails.

A normal natural nail contains about 18% water and 5% oil. Optimal flexibility occurs when the nail plate holds around 25% moisture.

Porcentagem de água e óleo da unha natural — Proporção de água e óleo na unha natural

However, excessive water can weaken and damage the nail plate, similar to how a sponge shrinks as it dries out, leaving behind a dry and brittle nail plate. This process starts a vicious cycle that will only be stopped if we continue to add more moisture. It can take quite some time to recover the nail plate but as long as nail plate cells are being produced we will be successful.

Antes e depois da placa ungueal — Nail plate recovery – the lateral nail folds and the existence of the onychodermal band & hyponychium are now recovered and the difference is obvious, the proximal nail fold needs a little more time.

O ato de equilíbrio: Como a umidade mantém as placas ungueais fortes e flexíveis

Nail plates that are consistently exposed to water, especially with soap, become soft and weak due to this ongoing process. Remember, soap dissolves oil. It takes a few hours for the nail plate to fully recover its normal ‘oil & water’ levels

Without a doubt, maintaining a proper moisture balance is essential for healthy natural nails. When the moisture balance is right, your natural nails can better withstand trauma due to their flexibility. Think of it like shock absorbers in a car or on a bicycle—they absorb the bumps in the road, ensuring you arrive without any bruises. Flexibility in the nail plate serves a similar purpose.

Os óleos essenciais: Como Eles Nutrem e Protegem as Placas de Unhas

5% Oil – Where Does It Come From?

These oils are produced in the nail bed and slowly penetrate through the nail plate from bottom to top, where they may eventually be washed away. These oils keep both the nail plate and the bed epithelium flexible. These oils are composed of ‘lipids,’ including squaleen and cholesterol.

Oil and water don’t naturally mix, so how can both penetrate the nail plate? It doesn’t seem logical for both to use the same channel, so could it be that they each take a different route? The scientific community hasn’t reached a definitive conclusion, but it’s suspected that they indeed take different paths. Here’s one possible explanation:

– Water enters the nail plate cell directly through the cell wall.

– Oil cannot penetrate the cell wall and instead seeps through the remaining spaces between the nail plate cells.

O poder protetor dos óleos: Como eles fortalecem suas unhas secas e rachadas

Os óleos plastificam a placa ungueal; eles se movem muito mais lentamente e evaporam menos rapidamente. Como resultado, o óleo bloqueia as rotas de entrada e saída de água.

The outcome is less brittle, more flexible nails—stronger, in essence. Because the oil remains in the nail plate for a longer period, it has a significant effect on the overall condition of the nail plate.

But what if this balance is disrupted by trauma or conditions like eczema, psoriasis, lichen planus, or even a fungal infection? The nail plate and nail bed may become dehydrated. But what if everything seems normal otherwise?

Desvendando a Matriz: Como as células da placa ungueal são formadas e por que as imperfeições são importantes

For this, we need to examine the matrix where the nail plate cells are produced.

A matriz produz células da placa ungueal 24 horas por dia, 7 dias por semana. Quando temos 21 anos, ela está funcionando em sua capacidade máxima, mas depois disso fica mais lenta.

Think of a tennis ball machine continuously spitting out tennis balls—this is how the matrix works. If something isn’t quite right there, cells may still be produced but not as perfectly as they should be. This creates weaker nail plate cells that may appear normal but lack the strength of perfectly formed nail plate cells.

There are of course exceptions. You don’t have to be old to have abnormal nail plate cells—it can happen to young people too if they are suffering from psoriasis, lichen planus, Alopecia or Eczema. Babies are sometimes born with nail matrix’ that are not yet fully formed although these catch up quickly after birth.

Pressão na placa ungueal: como as imperfeições criam sulcos e vales

Once on the nail bed, the nail plate is under pressure from all sides—the lateral side walls, the nail bed, and the proximal nail fold all stabilize the nail plate as it moves along the nail bed. This pressure is significant, and if a cell isn’t perfect, it collapses, creating ranhuras na unha plate, with the weakest cells in the valley and the strongest cells on top of the hill, this is why buffing or filing the nail plate to make it even & shiny creates even more damage, you unwittingly remove the Links mais fortes.

Às vezes, pequenas estruturas semelhantes a contas são formadas, fazendo com que a placa ungueal se desfaça.

Ranhuras e vales para pregos — Placa de unha com ranhuras

Contas de unha na placa ungueal — Beaded Ridge nail plate (the ‘beads’ are visible at the top of the ridge as well as the groves)

O efeito dominó: como a negligência e as células anormais podem levar a unhas secas e rachadas

Imagine that the nail plate doesn’t receive extra care from external oils, and suppose truly abnormal cells are produced that are under the same pressure from the side walls, etc., then, just like anything that dries out, the nail plate cells start to separate— its pure stress from dryness (think of paint on a wooden window, for example—if the seal is broken, it’s a downhill slide). If water then penetrates and that water evaporates, it causes more dehydration, and the puzzle pieces that make up our nail plate cells simply come apart—resulting in a horizontal split in the nail plate.

Figura 6. 28-01-2023 – you can see here how the nail plate crumbles at its weakest point. After about 5 months of intensive nail care on the 10-5-2023 the nail plates still have groves (that’s the defect in the nail matrix that we can do nothing about) but the nail plate is whole again, its in good condition and now flexibility keeps the nail plate cells together.

Figura 7. On the left, the nail groves are dry and cause the nail plate cells to spit verticaly and the nail plate is not sitting in the paronichium cup as it should. After intensive nail care, the nail plate is now in the paronichium cup, the lateral nail folds can do their job and the onychodermal band is visibly doing its job and the nail plate is no longer fractured.

Entender como isso acontece e o que é necessário para resolver o problema fará com que seu salão seja um dos mais movimentados da região e você terá clientes para toda a vida.

It is however important to realize that non of these solutions are immediate – but – with time and goed nail unit care and maintenance you will achieve them.

Fotos: Tracy Anne Shelverton, Jozephine Frijters e Xuan Chu

A ciência por trás do crescimento mais rápido de suas unhas

Desmascarando mitos e revelando verdades sobre o crescimento rápido das unhas

Quando se trata de acelerar o crescimento das unhas, há inúmeros mitos e equívocos que circulam há anos. Algumas pessoas acreditam que tratamentos especiais, produtos ou até mesmo remédios caseiros podem acelerar magicamente o crescimento das unhas.

However, the truth is that the rate at which your nails grow is largely determined by genetics, and there’s no surefire way to make them grow significantly faster. In this article, we’ll debunk common myths and reveal the science behind healthy nail growth. While you can’t make your nails grow at lightning speed, you can certainly improve their overall health, strength, and appearance by following proper nail care practices and adopting a well-balanced lifestyle. Doing this, your nails will appear to grow faster, even though they are growing at your normal rate.

The key is in recognizing that a nail plate affected by disease, infection, dryness, cytostatica or nail biting grows per definition at a slower rate but it is also true that some nail unit diseases can cause nails to grow faster than normal.

I. Cuidados e higiene adequados com as unhas

Mantenha as unhas limpas lavando-as regularmente, seque-as bem e aplique óleo para unhas e pele.
Maintaining clean nails is essential for their overall health. Regularly washing your nails drying them well and keeping them well-oiled helps prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in or underneath the nail.
Avoid using harsh chemicals.
Os produtos químicos agressivos contidos nos produtos de limpeza podem enfraquecer suas unhas. Use luvas ao trabalhar com produtos químicos, ao trabalhar no jardim e, se possível, ao trabalhar com água.
Hidrate as mãos e as unhas para evitar o ressecamento.
Dry nails are more prone to breakage and infection. Applying a good quality nail and skin oil or a good lotion regularly can help keep your hands and nails hydrated and healthy.

II. Nutrição e dieta

A nail plate can only get its nutrients from your blood. So our blood supply to the nail matrix is also important, if this is diminished then a poorer quality nail plate cell will be produced, nail plate cells can also be influenced by skin diseases such as eczema or psoriasis.

Consuma uma dieta balanceada rica em nutrientes para a saúde das unhas.
Suas unhas precisam de nutrientes essenciais para crescerem fortes e saudáveis. Uma dieta balanceada que inclua uma variedade de vitaminas e minerais é fundamental.
Incorporate foods high in biotin, such as eggs, nuts, and leafy greens.
A biotina, também conhecida como vitamina B7, é frequentemente associada à saúde das unhas. Alimentos como ovos, nozes e folhas verdes são fontes ricas de biotina.
Ensure an adequate intake of vitamins and minerals like vitamin E, vitamin C, and zinc.
As vitaminas e os minerais desempenham um papel importante na saúde das unhas. A vitamina E ajuda a fortalecer as unhas, enquanto a vitamina C e o zinco promovem o crescimento saudável das unhas.

III. Hidratação

Beba bastante água para manter o corpo e as unhas hidratados.
Proper hydration is essential for nail health. Drinking enough water helps maintain moisture levels in your hands, nail unit and nails. (At 21 years of age, 18% of your natural nail is water)
Apply a moisturizing nail and cuticle cream regularly.
In addition to staying hydrated internally, using a good quality moisturizing nail and skin oil and or lotion can help keep your nails from becoming dry and brittle.

IV. Produtos para fortalecimento das unhas

Considere o uso de produtos ou tratamentos para fortalecer as unhas.
Os produtos para fortalecimento de unhas podem oferecer suporte extra para suas unhas, especialmente se elas forem propensas a quebrar. Existem muitos produtos no mercado, mas evite usar aqueles que apenas endurecem as unhas, pois as unhas duras quebram; o que você precisa é de força e flexibilidade, portanto, algo que fortaleça as unhas e mantenha a flexibilidade é perfeito. Em caso de dúvida, use um óleo de boa qualidade.
Usar um produto claro ou fortalecedor base antes de aplicar o esmalte.
Applying a clear or strengthening base coat before nail polish can help protect your nails and prevent staining from nail polish. A good ridge filler is a good place to start, apply 2 thin coats for best results.

Para os salões profissionais, existe um sistema incrível de fortalecimento de unhas que funciona NA placa ungueal, e não sobre ela. Lembre-se de que as unhas flexíveis são mais fortes do que as unhas duras, uma unha dura fratura quando é danificada, uma unha flexível se dobra e não quebra.

V. Evite roer as unhas ou usá-las como ferramentas.

Overuse of a nail file before product application.
If you wear nail polish, remove it on time and with a good nail polish remover. Hold the cotton pad or lint free wipe on the nail polish for 30 seconds before rubbing it off, this will help the remover penetrate the nail polish and make removal easier.

If you wear gel polish, choose a quality nail plate cleanser instead of roughing up the nail plate before product application and remove it according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Uso excessivo de uma lixa de unha antes da remoção do produto.
Take care if using an Efile during the removal process that you only break open the gel polish before soak off. Soak Off Gel Polish is softer than hard gel or acryl, filing the top coat open with a hand file (180grit) should be sufficient.

If you use an Efile to thin the product for an ‘in fill’ take care to leave a layer of product on the natural nail. Be careful not to accidently remove the upper layer of the nail plate.

Nail biting and using your nails as tools can lead to damage and hinder their growth. Learning or coaching yourself or your client not to bite your/their nails will make a huge difference in how your natural nail grows but also help to combat dryness – Dryness can cause the bed epithelium to no longer adhere to the nail bed causing onycholysis and can even prevent the nail plate cells forming the nail plate as it should. The elasticity of the bed epithelium is paramount to a healthy nail plate.

VI. Proteja suas unhas

Use luvas ao realizar tarefas domésticas ou ao trabalhar com produtos químicos agressivos.
As tarefas domésticas e a exposição a produtos químicos agressivos podem enfraquecer suas unhas. O uso de luvas proporciona uma camada extra de proteção.

Wear gloves when it’s extremely cold, oil your nails before you put them on and after you take them off.

Proteja suas unhas da exposição excessiva à água.
Prolonged exposure to water can cause your nails to become weak and prone to breakage. It’s important to realise, it’s not a problem when nails are wet, but water causes the nail plate to expand and when the water evaporates from those nail plates the nail plate will shrink back to their original size, this shrinkage will expose any small fractures and make them bigger.

Se estiver usando produtos para unhas artificiais, use luvas para proteger essas unhas deslumbrantes. Passe óleo antes de calçar as luvas, o mesmo se aplica ao limpar o carro ou lavar a louça.

VII. Corte regular

Apare suas unhas regularmente para evitar que elas fiquem muito longas e propensas a quebrar.
O corte regular das unhas ajuda a manter seu comprimento e evita que elas fiquem muito longas e frágeis.
Use um cortador de unhas afiado e limpo para aparar as unhas.
Using a sharp, clean nail clipper ensures a clean and even cut, reducing the risk of nail damage. If you use a nail file, 220 – 180 grit is better. Using a lower grit can cause damage to the free edge of the nail plate creating splitting and delamination.

IX. Paciência

Entenda que o crescimento das unhas leva tempo e varia de pessoa para pessoa.
There’s no instant solution for rocket-speed growth. Be patient; your nails are on their own journey.

For pregnant women it’s a little different.
Durante a gravidez, as unhas crescem mais rapidamente, o que se deve ao maior volume de sangue no corpo e aos hormônios de crescimento que são produzidos para que o bebê se desenvolva bem. Quando você dá à luz, essa aceleração cessa e o crescimento das unhas volta ao normal (seu normal).

Em geral, os homens têm unhas mais grossas do que as mulheres
Eles crescem em um ritmo um pouco mais rápido, o que os torna candidatos muito melhores para o esmalte de unha e o esmalte em gel.

It’s important to remember that everyone’s nails grow at different rates, and there’s no instant solution for faster growth. Dryness is the #1 enemy for nails and the nail unit and really can slow down your nail growth – using good quality oils and lotion really can make a difference – also for men.

Be patient and consistent with your nail care routine.
A consistência é fundamental quando se trata de cuidar das unhas. Ao seguir uma rotina regular e saudável, você pode manter a melhor saúde possível das unhas.

X. Consulte um profissional

If you have concerns about your nail health, consider consulting a dermatologist or nail technician for advice and guidance.

If you’re experiencing persistent issues with your nails, seeking professional guidance is a wise choice. Dermatologists and qualified, well-schooled nail technicians or medical hand specialists can provide special, personalized recommendations based on your specific needs.

It’s important to remember, nutrients come to the nail matrix via the blood if the blood can’t reach the nail matrix as it used too, slower growing or defect nail plates will be the result. Patients receiving chemotherapy can experience significant nail plate and or nail bed damage in the first hours of treatment or even for years after the treatment ends, it can also stop the nail plate cells from being released for a short time creating Beaus lines or onychomadesis – Gentle care and maintenance becomes significantly more important for these patients. It’s the last thing you want to hear before commencing chemotherapy, but it’s wise to remove all artificial nail products before hand so that early signs of damage of the capillaries of the nail bed and leakage from this damage, can be spotted in time.

Conclusão: Obtendo unhas saudáveis

Embora a ciência por trás do crescimento mais rápido das unhas possa (ainda) não produzir resultados milagrosos, a boa notícia é que você tem o poder de melhorar a saúde geral e a aparência das suas unhas, independentemente da condição delas.

O cuidado adequado com as unhas, uma dieta balanceada, hidratação e proteção são elementos fundamentais para manter as unhas fortes e bonitas.

Lembre-se de que a paciência e a consistência são suas aliadas em sua jornada rumo a unhas mais saudáveis e resistentes.

Seguindo essas diretrizes e desmascarando os mitos que cercam o crescimento das unhas, você pode desfrutar de unhas que não são apenas esteticamente agradáveis, mas que também estão na melhor condição possível.

Desvende os segredos da faixa onicodérmica

A faixa onicodérmica

We see it every day while we’re at work, but do we really know what it is? Let’s take a closer look at Doug Schoon’s illustration to get a better understanding.

If we attempt to view it from behind the free edge, it appears like this:

• The Onychodermal Band is non-living tissue. It’s an extension of the bed epithelium.
• It has a gray-brownish color.

A faixa onicodérmica: Uma barreira protetora oculta

Entre os placa ungueal and the nail bed lies the bed epithelium. When the bed epithelium reaches the end of the leito ungueal e se dobra sobre si mesmo, ele se torna a faixa onicodérmica. Esse tecido estreito e compactado atua como uma barreira patogênica extra sob a camada livre de borda da placa ungueal. Ela forma uma parceria com a hiponíquio and together they become a super seal – it often goes unnoticed and is nearly invisible. You have to look closely to perceive it.

A faixa onicodérmica é um pouco translúcida, uma fina camada abaixo da borda distal (borda livre) da placa unguealA cor da unha é a mesma que a do cotovelo, abrangendo toda a largura da placa ungueal e delimitando o branco visível da borda livre.

A faixa onicodérmica serve para evitar que os menores organismos infecciosos e contaminantes se infiltrem no leito ungueal. Se esse tecido protetor (barreira patogênica) for rompido, a unha A placa se separa do leito ungueal causing onycholysis and dramatically increasing the risk of infection.

Its partner in the nail unit is the Hyponychium and that hyponychium is one of the four guardian seals of the nail unit, designed to protect the leito ungueal from germs and other infections, such as fungus or yeast. While the hiponíquio is composed of living epidermal tissue. It’s important to note that the Onychodermal Band is non-living tissue and needs to remain elastic to perform its job effectively.

Aumentando a elasticidade: Aplicação de óleo atrás da borda livre para a saúde das unhas

Aplicação de óleo A aplicação de um adesivo de unha na parte de trás da borda livre, em vez de na parte superior da placa ungueal, pode ajudar a manter a elasticidade necessária, mesmo que a faixa onicodérmica já tenha se descolado.

Medidas de precaução e considerações autoimunes para o cuidado com as unhas

Cuidado ao usar um Efile para encurtar a unha que está saindo de um aprimoramento de unhas behind the free edge or if you use a sharp instrument to clean under the free edge, might accidentally damage it, and you’ll immediately see the consequences as onycholysis.

Algumas doenças autoimunes também podem ter um impacto:

• Psoriasis
• Lichen Planus
• Eczema

Todas essas são doenças que podem afetar a faixa onicodérmica, a matriz da unha, a placa ungueal ou o leito ungueal, o que faz com que o selo se rompa. A aplicação de óleo atrás da borda livre é fundamental, pois o óleo repele a água, mantém o selo de proteção elástico e não fornece uma fonte de nutrição para os germes, oferecendo excelente proteção.

In this image, you can clearly see how psoriasis can affect it. When the ‘oil slick’ blister forms, the bed epithelium is directly affected by the upwards pressure of the blister dislodging it from the nail bed. As the nail plate moves (perpetual motion) and the damaged bed epithelium gets closer to the free edge onycholysis is a fact and the nail bed is exposed to any and all pathogens.

Sometimes, you may also notice that the hyponychium is pulled along with the Onychodermal Band. Something simple (but not always noticed) like product shrinkage can easily cause this to happen. If you recognize this happening, stop with your nail product until the hyponychium is recovered or find a more flexible product. Here, too, a good quality oil is your friend. If you work with a cuticle pusher or an e-file in this area, you’re likely to cause more irritation.

The Onychodermal Band is of utmost importance for the overall health of the nail unit and must be treated with care. Being cautious during cleaning under the free edge is necessary. It’s better to clean with a soft brush and oil, always avoiding sharp objects under the free edge to keep the nail unit healthy.

Em conclusão

The Onychodermal Band may go unnoticed in our daily lives, but it plays a crucial role in protecting our nails from infections and maintaining their overall health. Understanding its function and how to care for it is essential for nail health and hygiene. So, next time you’re working on your nails, remember the significance of the Onychodermal Band and treat it with the care it deserves to keep your nails looking and feeling their best.