Nail professionals often encounter challenges related to the longevity of acrylic and gel polish on clients’ nails. A common belief is that “oily nail plates” are the primary reason for lifting and poor adhesion of these nail coatings. However, there is some confusion surrounding the presence of oil in the nail plate and its impact on nail treatments. In this query, a nail professional seeks a scientific explanation regarding the composition of nail plates and the true causes behind lifting issues. We provide clarity, addressing misconceptions and emphasizing the importance of proper preparation and application techniques to ensure lasting results.
Nail Professional Query on Oily Nail Plates
I keep seeing posts stating, ‘the client has oily nail plates, that’s why acrylic and gel polish doesn’t last.” My understanding is the nail bed doesn’t have oil glands so this isn’t possible. Clients can have creams or oils on their hands if they have not been washed correctly and the main reasons for gels and acrylics lifting is incorrect prep, not using correct ratios, mixing products or not using the correct lamp. Can you give me the correct scientific answer please?
Understanding Natural Oils in Nail Plates
Yes, you are mostly correct. I do disagree with one thing, it’s a myth that a lack of sebaceous oil glands in the nail bed means the nail plate can’t contain oil. The nail bed and underlying tissues also produce natural oils of differing compositions than the sebaceous glands, but these other tissues don’t make nearly as much oil as the sebaceous glands. About 3-5% of the weight of a nail plate is due to natural oils.
Hair can contain twice as much. I do agree with you that if the surface of the nail plate is properly cleaned and prepared, that nail coatings will stick well to even normally “oily nail plates”. Of course, very oily or wet nail plates can be a challenge, but these challenges can be overcome when the proper procedures/techniques are used.
Addressing Nail Coating Issues
Don’t look for excuses for why the nail coatings don’t stick, instead, examine your own work carefully. Many of these problems are more likely related to improper preparation, improper application, improper cure and/or improper removal. Examine each of these areas. Sloppy or incorrectly performed procedures may work ok for most clients, but these same procedures are more likely to cause problems with clients that have oily or wet nail plates.
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