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Nail Professional or Chemist?

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There are several articles here in NailKnowledge about not mixing systems, the correct UV lamp, no to a ‘universal’ monomer. Well, here is another one!

If you have taken the NailKnowledge Course or have received a good level of education, you will know what a massively complicated subject nail coatings are. In the world of cosmetics, they are some of THE most complicated from a formulation point of view and are also very safe when used correctly.

Many chemists spend a lifetime specialising in polymer chemistry. Some specialise in the UV cured materials, some in what we know as L&P and some will specialise in both. They know what they are talking about, and their formulations are very carefully developed and, when thoroughly tested, provide detailed instructions for correct use.

In this sector of the wider beauty industry, we are nail professionals (that is, we earn our living at caring for clients nails with regard to their health and aesthetic appeal with colours and designs). Nail health and the safety of the client and the professional are the number 1 considerations. After that comes understanding the science so we can work safely and troubleshoot when things go wrong. Last, but by no means least, is the level of skill needed to provide our clients with what they want.

Unfortunately, there are many in this sector who believe themselves to be chemists! If not chemists, then ‘unbelievers’ who think everything is a marketing exercise to relieve you of your hard-earned cash to make more for them!

We are all aware of many unscrupulous companies who do this and often quite deliberately. Others who decide to create a brand but do not have enough knowledge to understand what they are selling. But there are MANY ethical companies who put the safety of their customers and clients at the forefront of their company ethos.

It is the highly qualified chemists and ethical companies we should be listening to!

No nail pro (unless they have a relevant degree in chemistry) should be playing at being a chemist or ‘mixologist’.

Matched systems are KEY! An L&P system is designed to work together for a proper cure with no left-over unreacted monomers. The ‘medium dry’ ratio is also KEY as too wet WILL result in unreacted monomers (regardless of what the IG or YouTube influencers are saying – They are not chemists either!) UV cured coatings need correct application and a matched UV lamp.

So many also believe that layering different brands is also safe! It might be but…..you don’t KNOW that. “Doing this for years with no problems’ just does not cut it and voids your insurance!

Every day there are more nail pros on social media with horrible skin and/or nail reactions! This is almost entirely avoidable! The result of this is, far too often, the destruction of a loved career! More and more clients can no longer be clients as they have developed allergies. Game over!

To conclude:

  • believe the expert chemists and ethical companies
  • understand the science and avoid overexposure
  • focus on the best in education and keep learning
  • safeguard your career, health, skin and nails
  • protect your clients with safe products and, above all, safe working practices
Related Terms:

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An individual who is qualified to provide a wide range of nail services.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_a656a2a40632c1e29663156211bbc0bd":"

Nail coatings<\/div>
\n

Any product used to coat a finger or toe nail for strength or to add length and\/or colour.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_ec1f5e33cb23fe2553e53b69fed57d64":"

Overexposure<\/div>
\n

The term 'overexposure' relates to the situation when any individual is overexposed to any nail product (or, indeed, any other ingredient in any product). The level of overexposure is specific to each individual and no one knows what that is. Overexposure will result in an allergic reaction to an allergen. Nail coating products are NOT meant to touch the skin. Nail coatings that are not 'properly cured' will also cause an overeposed allergy.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_0506a8f91422e69ce467fd3507a8e7a4":"

Proper cure<\/div>
\n

In a salon, when an artificial nail covering has achieved 90 percent polymerisation and has reached its intended strength, containing only very low levels of unreacted monomers, which is considered safe.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_e643599a9578e4d80be48eeb7c82861c":"

Chemistry<\/div>
Chemical\n

Chemistry is the science that deals with the properties, composition, and structure of substances (defined as elements and compounds). As nail professionals, we do not need a qualification in chemistry but it is essential to have a level of understanding in the chemistry that is involved in the products we use. It allows us to work safely and also troubleshoot when problems occur.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_f45b9a89158ccab32d0de5e415a06686":"

Cosmetics<\/div>
Cosmetics\n

The definition of a cosmetic is, officially: A \"cosmetic product\" shall mean any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and\/or correcting body odours and\/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_df05eb08db9e67ae0ee501e6714c6584":"

Monomers<\/div>
\n

Single units of molecules \u2013 the building blocks of polymers and the polymerisation process. <\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_1256c04862bdc6c8fe0105389d4f595c":"

Allergy<\/div>
Allergy Symptoms\n

The reaction of the body to certain chemicals that it sees as a threat to health. It is a permanent condition.
<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_f328d734711cc4e9eb4c65070e22ae6d":"

UV Lamp<\/div>
UV-GEL hand in nail lamp\n

UV lamp is the electrical equipment that is needed when using UV cured nail products. These products have a formula including photo initiators that need the energy of UVA on the electronic magnetic spectrum to start the polymerisation process. It s important that the lamp is scientifically matched with the products to ensure a \u2018proper cure\u2019 of the overlay or coating as the wavelength, intensity and time is crucial for the process to be efficient.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_055b266ab1e48d4f25c57b5d254c804c":"

Polymers<\/div>
\n

In the context of nail products, polymers are long chains of joined up monomers\/oligomers which solidify (polymerise) to create durable artificial nail coverings. All plastics are polymers but there are also many different types of polymers both synthetic and naturally occurring.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_028573aa40ce1f3cceb26ad80ad33592":"

Cure \/ Curing<\/div>
\n

This is the term used to describe the polymerization process for the acrylics (whether uv gels or l&p systems) used in nail coatings. A 'proper cure' is what should be achieved which is when, at least, 80% of the coating has been polymerised. Anything less than this is considered to be 'under-cured' and can cause an allergic reaction. \"Over-curing\" would be when the nail coating is cured in a lamp that has a stronger output than what the manufacturer recommends, and it will make the nail coating brittle.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_a1f17f7b6c12911aab586fcc27ce999b":"

L&P<\/div>
Liquid and Powder\n

A two-part nail enhancement system using polymer powder and monomer liquid, and applied using a sable brush.<\/p>\n<\/div>"}}; -->