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no wipe top coats

No Wipe Top Coats

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In August 2021, the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology published a new research, showing that we have a new problem in the nail industry. And this one we did not see coming: It’s about the NO WIPE TOP COATS– irrespective of brand.

No Wipe Top Coats are amazing for rubbing in our pigment layers. I mean, who doesn’t love a chrome finish?
But there is something else that none of us paid attention to:

1: These No Wipe Top Coats (still) have a sticky layer after curing (and this really does make sense).

2: We must remove the sticky layer of our No Wipe Top Coats with 70% alcohol, or with our favorite nail product cleanser, avoiding contact with the skin. Then, allow our client to wash their hands with soap and water, rinsing well. Follow that with our high-quality oil and lotion.

wiping top coat inhibition layer
Foto courtesy of Gorge Nails

How is this possible? And why are we only hearing about this now?
In all honesty, because it is only now that we have noticed.

We already know that in the last year there has been a real problem with clients, customers, hobby techs, and even some real nail professionals showing signs of developed and diagnosed allergies.

We taught all of you that using hand & nail care products, like good quality lotions and oils, is really important. And almost all of you took that advice to heart, not only for your lady clients but your men clients too! You know they are good not only for the nails and the skin, but also to maintain all coatings. You all do it really well. Most quality hand & nail care products have ingredients that promote absorption into the skin, or small enough molecules to penetrate the nail plate. And that’s great! BUT if we don’t cleanse the sticky layer after we have cured our No Wipe Top Coat, then we just smear that, along with the oil, all over our clients’ nails, fingers, and hands, as well as on our own!

I asked Doug Schoon & Vitaly Solomonoff for their opinion. Additionally, I asked if washing the hands with soap and water would be enough to remove what is a very thin residue layer. Here is what they shared:

Doug Schoon:

Coming in contact with the sticky layer can cause allergies. That is well-known. I think what isn’t appreciated is that, to make a No Wipe Top Coat, many use acrylates because they cure faster and harder than methacrylates. But acrylates are more likely to cause allergies than methacrylates. I think that is the bigger issue. And, if they (nail techs) don’t wear gloves, the solvents can combine with the uncured ingredients to carry them into the skin. Also, it’s not a dispersion layer, this is an oxygen inhibition layer. Oxygen has inhibited the cure at the surface and left lots of uncured ingredients behind. Washing alone may not be enough. Ideally, you’d want to:
-wipe off the layer
-wash and dry the hands
-apply nail oil

Vitaly Solomonoff:

I guess, that the gels with no sticky residue could be washed (I mean the hands) with soap. But a sort of liquid soap, not a regular one should be used – the liquid soap will ensure that the inhibition layer will be removed. It can be achieved with very thorough washing during 2-3 minutes. Some types of inhibition layers are difficult to remove, even with professional detergents, and some residue is spreading over the skin surface. That is why I would prefer wiping the gel nails away with an alcoholic solution before washing hands. Both ways are acceptable, but wiping with alcohol is preferable and safer. It is also important to note that the nail pro should wash their hands, too. So, the best algorithm would be:
-Cure the no wipe top coat
-Wipe with alcoholic solution
-Wash hands with soap (any soap here)
-Apply an oil or lotion or both as a final step of the service.
You can cleanse your No Wipe Top Coat with (a small amount of) 70% alcohol or your favorite nail product cleanser.

In conclusion: We really do have to WIPE our NO WIPE TOP COAT!
Then advise our clients to wash their hands with soap and water after we have completed the service. Finish with high-quality nail oil and hand lotion.

en_GBEnglish
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\n

An individual who is qualified to provide a wide range of nail services.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_62e1481a58a4df4bb01c8b380d8603d3":"

Inhibition Layer<\/div>
\n

This is the layer of uncured product on the surface of a UV curable coating. Oxygen inhibits polymerisation and many UV cured coatings are left with an \u2018inhibition layer\u2019 or \u2019sticky layer\u2019 which is uncured product. This needs to be removed with IPA at the conclusion of the nail service. Many products are called \u2019tack free\u2019 but it is good practice to wipe over with IPA as some uncured monomers will still be present.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_df9cd76cff6e2c0f058ea0241f11c67e":"

Methacrylates<\/div>
\n

Methacrylates are a class of chemicals commonly used in the production of various nail products, such as acrylic nails, gels, or adhesives. Methacrylates undergo polymerization reactions to create durable and long-lasting nail enhancements.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_1246a1b7fb9bed3e4702bd0168f71114":"

Nail plate<\/div>
Nail Plate\n

Hard layers of modified and keratinised skin cells, bonded together, to form a protective plate on the end of each finger and toe, that prevents damage to the underlying bone and allows for manual dexterity.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_2ae2a5a730f9a5ec8dd0c72128dbb020":"

Lotion<\/div>
hand lotion\n

A lotion\u00a0is a low-viscosity\u00a0product intended for application to the\u00a0skin. \u00a0<\/p>\n
\n

Although there are many types of lotions,\u00a0hand lotions\u00a0and\u00a0body lotions\u00a0are meant to simply smooth, moisturize, soften and, sometimes, perfume the skin.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_265459ff3a77897a878b36de0b7ff4c6":"

Acrylates<\/div>
A family of chemicals that easily form plastic polymers. Commonly used in UV cured nail products.<\/div>","cmtt_5c525ee1d52bc291bccb4abb30f8d973":"
Nail technician<\/div>
\n

Someone who is qualified to provide a wide range of nail services.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_d0f1ec027a1fbd229cfbb457151e05df":"

Gel nails<\/div>
Gel nails\n

A system of nail enhancements using any UV cured nail products.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_1fc6d774ecea12346a8ffab9f92b78e2":"

Cleanser<\/div>
\n

A cleanser in nail services usually refers to a product that removes oils and debris from the skin or, more relevantly, the nail plate. It will cleanse the skin or nail plate ready for other products to be used and become more effective as there will be no oil or debris barrier to the effectiveness of the subsequent products.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_1256c04862bdc6c8fe0105389d4f595c":"

Allergy<\/div>
Allergy Symptoms\n

The reaction of the body to certain chemicals that it sees as a threat to health. It is a permanent condition.
<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_fd7643ea3e2121bcf63b92a2783f377f":"

Nail care<\/div>
\n

Nail care refers to the maintenance and upkeep of the nails and surrounding skin. It includes regular cleaning, moisturizing, and trimming of the nails, as well as protecting them from damage and infection.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_11533c2225a32a0a2021a4517e2c664f":"

Top Coat<\/div>
\n

This refers to a nail product that is the final layer of a nail coating. It can be a traditional nail polish or a UV gel polish. The formulation will allow it to withstand scratches and be tougher than colour coats. It is essential to use in UV gel polish systems but optional in traditional nail polishes. A top coat can also be used over a liquid and powder coating to give it extra shine. Top coats usually have a high shine but there are also many alternatives e.g. matte, shimmer, slightly pigmented etc<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_5d9a553b829690f7eecc611184e17273":"

Solvents<\/div>
\n

Solvents (in the context of nail products as water is a solvent) are chemicals such as acetone, ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, butyl acetate, toluene. They are able to dissolve certain products or break their bonds. They are commonly used in nail polishes and nail polish removers. They are usually volatile and are the method used to dry nail polish as they keep the product liquid until they are exposed air and will evaporate and leave the pigments and other ingredients (such as plastisers etc) as a nail coating. They are also used in nail plate dehydrators to cleanse and degrease the nail in the preparation for a coating application.<\/p>\n
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Pathogens (with the possible exception of fungal spores) are unable to survive in a product with a high level of solvents. This is why it is safe to use nail polish on several clients without spreading any pathogens<\/p>\n
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(Also see alcohols)<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_88d65098fcabbcc4b28f8e8d076ac5d1":"

Pigment<\/div>
pigments, pigment dust\n

The term pigment refers to a colour added to a nail coating e.g. UV gel polish or traditional nail polish. It can also be used in its powder form, usually for nail art designs. Any product used on the nails must conform to the Cosmetic Regulations and be a cosmetically approved pigment.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_a656a2a40632c1e29663156211bbc0bd":"

Nail coatings<\/div>
\n

Any product used to coat a finger or toe nail for strength or to add length and\/or colour.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_028573aa40ce1f3cceb26ad80ad33592":"

Cure \/ Curing<\/div>
\n

This is the term used to describe the polymerization process for the acrylics (whether uv gels or l&p systems) used in nail coatings. A 'proper cure' is what should be achieved which is when, at least, 80% of the coating has been polymerised. Anything less than this is considered to be 'under-cured' and can cause an allergic reaction. \"Over-curing\" would be when the nail coating is cured in a lamp that has a stronger output than what the manufacturer recommends, and it will make the nail coating brittle.<\/p>\n<\/div>","cmtt_4eb428598c1d8f289e6897779124e77d":"

UV Gel<\/div>
\n

A nail product that cures (or polymerizes) under a UV lamp.
There are various types of UV gels, categorized by the way they can be removed, or by the way they can be used.

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