Nail Services

Home Dipping Systems for Home Use

Many brands are popping up with dipping systems for home use! What can you say to clients who are thinking of buying one instead of salon nail services?

The Dip system is popular in the US and due to this something called ‘dip flu’ has been identified as a real issue.

This is about the vapours from the cyanoacrylate adhesive that is used instead of a UV gel system. This glue is used in the nail sector for sticking tips on. It can be dangerous as, if you spill some on your leg and you’re wearing jeans, for example, it creates an intense heat and can seriously burn the skin under the fabric.

Also, the powder being used is most likely to be the powder used in an L&P system and not powder specifically manufactured for this. Powders for L&P have benzoyl peroxide in them and this is a known irritant and can cause painful skin irritations.

It is easy to do at home and many who try it will be tempted to use it on friends and relations. But they won’t understand the hygiene hazards of several people dipping into the same pot of powder.

All of these issues are the same for a professional using this system, but they should all be covered in training if it is a good course!

Explain this to your clients and try to discourage them from trying this DIY product. Warn them of the dangers and also include that, whatever the marketing states, it takes quite a while to remove with acetone so many will resort to picking it off which will damage their nails for a long time.

The Role of HEMA in the Nail Industry

Welcome to our mini lesson on HEMA in the nail industry!

This lesson is aimed at all nail professionals, from beginners to advanced technicians, as well as nail enthusiasts who want to learn more about this important ingredient in nail products. Our goal is to explain the basics of _HEMA without overwhelming you with technical jargon, so that you can better understand its properties, benefits, and potential risks.

We’ll cover what HEMA is, the chemistry behind it, its properties and benefits, examples of nail products that contain HEMA_, and potential safety concerns related to its use.

So what is HEMA?

HEMA or Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate (CAS# 868-77-9), is a monomer or simply put, a liquid ingredient that’s commonly used in the nail industry to create strong, durable and flexible nail products.

It works by bonding well with other ingredients in the product and with your natural nails. (HEMA adheres as well to a nail plate containing water or where surface water is present as a dry well prepped nail plate)

When the photo initiators in the product are exposed to UVA energy HEMA forms long polymer chains of molecules, which help create a strong and flexible solid material.

This means that when you apply a product with HEMA_, it can create a smooth and even surface that’s less likely to chip or break. HEMA can also help the product stick and adhere better to your natural nails and resist lifting.
HEMA is a known allergen but when used correctly and professionally, it is safe at or below the recommended percentage of 35%.

Some examples of nail products that might contain HEMA include acrylic powders and liquids, gel polishes, and nail primers.

These products are made up of a mixture of different ingredients, including pigments, fragrances, and other additives, along with HEMA_.

_{Understanding the Risks and Safety Precautions of HEMA Use in Nail Products}

While HEMA is an important ingredient in many nail products, it’s important to be aware of the potential risks associated with its use. Exposure to incorrect use of HEMA can lead to skin irritation, allergic reactions, and other health problems.

To minimize the risk of exposure for both you and your client, it’s important to follow proper safety precautions when working with all nail products. This includes wearing gloves, working in a well-ventilated area, and avoiding skin contact at all times. Additionally, it is advisable to ensure that the percentage of HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) in the products is 30% or, preferably, lower.

If you or your clients experience any signs of irritation or allergic reaction from using _HEMA containing products, such as redness, swelling, blisters or itching, stop using the product immediately and seek medical attention if necessary.

Regulatory guidelines related to HEMA use in nail products vary by country and region. In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates nail products and sets guidelines for the safe use of ingredients like hema. In Europe and the united kingdom, they have also established guidelines for the safe use of HEMA in nail products. Products containing HEMA are restricted to professional use only.

As a nail technician, it’s important to stay up-to-date with regulatory guidelines and to use HEMA containing products safely and responsibly. By following proper safety precautions and using products according to manufacturer instructions, you can help minimize the risk of exposure and keep yourself and your clients safe.

_{HEMA-Free Claims and the Presence of Di-HEMA}

If a product is advertised as HEMA free, why does the label say that it contains Di-HEMA?
This is a question we get asked a lot on NailKnowledge. So we will address it here with an example to put it into context.
If a product contains DI-HEMA but is advertised as HEMA-FREE, it is because DI-HEMA is a similar ingredient but is structurally different from HEMA.

However, it’s important to note that some individuals who are sensitive or allergic to HEMA may also have a reaction to DI-HEMA, as it is still a type of methacrylate. So, it’s always important to read product labels carefully before using any new product, especially if you have a history of skin allergies or sensitivities. There are many HEMA free products available on the market but be aware, if an individual develops an allergy to HEMA, it is very likely they are also allergic to other monomers. The only way of knowing is to have a dermatological patch test to identify the exact ingredient to avoid.

There are many HEMA free products available on the market but be aware, if an individual develops an allergy to HEMA, it is very likely they are also allergic to other monomers. The only way of knowing is to have a dermatological patch test to identify the exact ingredient to avoid.

_{Drawing Parallels: Understanding HEMA and Di-HEMA}

An example to compare the relationship between HEMA and DI-HEMA could be comparing the difference between skimmed milk and whole milk. Although both are types of milk, they have different properties and are produced differently.

Skimmed milk is produced by removing the fat content from whole milk, while whole milk contains all the fat that naturally occurs in milk. While both types of milk are white and liquid, they have different nutritional profiles and can be used differently in cooking and baking.

Similarly, while DI-HEMA is chemically related to HEMA, they are different ingredients with different properties and functions. It’s important to read product labels carefully and understand the specific ingredients included in a product before using it, just like it’s important to understand the difference between skimmed milk and whole milk when cooking or baking.

_{Wrapping Up: Understanding HEMA & An Invitation to Dive Deeper}

That concludes our mini lesson on HEMA_, in the nail industry. We hope you found this information helpful in understanding the basics of this important ingredient in nail products.

If you’re interested in diving deeper into the science behind nail products, we invite you to check out our “Essential Nail Professional” course. This course provides a more comprehensive exploration of the chemistry behind nail products, including the role of monomers, polymers, and _HEMA. By enrolling in this course, you’ll gain a deeper understanding of the products you use every day and how to use them safely and effectively.

Thank you for learning with Nail Knowledge and we look forward to seeing you online real soon!

Demystifying Nail Allergies

Understanding Causes, Symptoms, and Responsible Care

There is still a great deal of obvious confusion over nail allergies and what to do about them.

Seeking Advice for Nail Allergies on Social Media

There are countless pictures on SM asking for opinions, even though many state that we are not doctors so we cannot diagnose. Then what?

If clients have been wearing nail coatings that are known to be allergenic and symptoms appear it doesn’t matter if they have had the same nail service for a long period of time with no reaction as it can take years for an immune response to occur.

The only next step is to seek a medical diagnosis. Many general practitioners lack knowledge about common acrylate reactions, often dismissing them as fungal infections or prescribing antibiotics or steroid creams.

No one should take antibiotics unless necessary as the body can build up an immunity to them and they will not work when their use is urgent. Steroid creams can thin the skin and do not cure an allergic reaction.

Essential Steps for Allergic Reactions and Fungus Identification

The definitive step to remedy an allergic reaction involves complete removal of the allergen, which, in this case, refers to the nail coating.

To determine if a symptom is due to a fungal infection, testing is the essential method.

The only real answer to know what to do with a potential allergy is to have a dermatology patch test and one specifically for acrylates and methacrylates (which not all dermatologists are qualified to do!). If a GP refuses to refer the patient to a dermatologist, then they should be advised that the patient has had a known allergen such as a nail coating. Once this is done and results are received, the very specific ingredient can be avoided.

Testing HEMA-Free Products for Nail Allergies

It can be worth trying one nail with a HEMA-free product but the individual may, by that time, be allergic to many other acrylates or on the verge of becoming allergic. But if a client is insistent it can be done as long as the client agrees to return in one week to have it removed to see the condition of the nail plate and nail bed.

Prior Allergen Testing: A Must Before Nail Coating Application

Until this testing has been carried out no coating should be applied. If it is then the nail professional is liable for causing any further damage and wide open to a liable action.

When a reaction occurs the client must be encouraged to report it to Trading Standards via the Citizens Advice Bureau and the nail professional should report it to the manufacturer.

Preventing Nail Allergies: Proper Curing and Nail Product Safety

There are many known allergens used in nail products but they are allowed as the product must not touch the skin and must be properly cured. Please see all our information on a proper cure and watch our video on nail Allergies and how they happen, to understand it more.

Navigating HEMA and Monomer Reactions

It is not always HEMA that is the problem but reacting to HEMA can lead to reactions from other monomers.

It is very important that every nail pro understands what to do in these circumstances, anything less is unprofessional and opens their clients to long term problems and damage.

The Truth about Halal Nail Polish and Muslim Practices

At Nailknowledge, we frequently receive inquiries about the compatibility of nail polish with Muslim practices. In this article, we aim to answer this common concern and offer insights into the topic.

The central question we address here is: “As a practicing Muslim, I am bound by the restrictions of Islamic law when it comes to the nail polish I can wear. This raises an important question: do you know which types of nail polish are permissible under these guidelines?”

The Intersection of Nail Polish and Islamic Law

To be clear, I am not Muslim, and I do NOT have the qualifications needed to interpret Islamic law, but over the last several years I’ve consulted with several Muslim experts in these areas and I have relied heavily on their expertise.

By combining my scientific knowledge with their expert knowledge about specific Islamic laws, I’ve been better able to determine the facts behind this highly confusing issue, as it applies to wearing nail polish.

Many companies have recently started marketing “Halal” nail polish to Muslim women, which has led to confusion about whether these nail polishes adhere to Islamic law. Most of the confusion exists because the term “Halal” implies that all Islamic requirements have been met, but that is not the case for nail polish. Nail polishes have a separate and different requirement that goes beyond being Halal.

Halal Certification: Its Significance and Application in the Context of Nail Polish

First, let’s discuss what it means to be “Halal certified”. What is that? Halal certified- simply means “permitted or lawful”, under Islamic law. This certification is provided for foods or cosmetics if they can demonstrate that they do not contain any substances forbidden by Islamic law, e.g. drinking alcohol which is called ethanol and pork are typical examples.

Halal certifications are intended for foods, but also include other items that may be swallowed, e.g. mouthwash, toothpaste or lipsticks. This requirement really doesn’t apply to nail polish, yet some marketers are using the term in a confusing fashion and some are misleading many Muslim women.

Halal certification is very easy to obtain. Companies must pay a monetary fee to the governing body, after which they review the list of ingredients for the product.

Nail Polish and Islamic Law Regarding Wudu

Once it is determined that a food or cosmetic product contains no forbidden substances, it can become “Halal certified”. This is very much like the Kosher designation. Both Kosher and Halal have similar goals and requirements. However, nail polish is different from other cosmetics and MUST adhere to another Islamic law that so far has proven impossible for any nail polish to achieve.

This law requires Muslims to wet their nail plates before praying, and this can NOT be achieved if they are wearing nail polish. A “spiritual wash” called Wudu, is required to be performed before every prayer and this is extremely important. This ritual wash is used to attain a state of mental preparation for prayer and help to maintain good physical cleanliness.

Muslim doctrine teaches that practitioners MUST perform a spiritual wash BEFORE they pray. If they do not perform this required spiritual wash, their prayers are considered invalid and do not count. In other words, praying without properly performing Wudu, is like not praying at all. Pretty serious stuff for practicing Muslims.

Nail Polish and its Compatibility with Wudu Requirements

Since Muslims are required to pray five times per day, they must perform the spiritual wash several times per day, which is why most practising Muslim’s don’t wear nail polish. If a Muslim does not get their nail plates wet with liquid water, their Wudu was not properly performed and thus their prayers do not count. Claiming that water “vapors” penetrate through nail polish to the nail plate is not nearly enough; vapors and traces of moisture do not count as a spiritual wash.

I have examined the ingredients and the testing is done on nail polish that claims to allow water to pass through the polish to reach the nail plate. In my opinion, these are nothing more than simple tricks designed to fool the public. I’m speaking specifically about a silly test where nail polish was applied to a coffee filter and then it was shown how water passed through the filter. What? Since when did a coffee filter become a good substitute for the nail plate? This is utter foolishness and trickery, in my view. I suspect that I could make any nail polish pass this silly test, so it proves nothing. I believe this test was adopted to fool people into thinking they could perform a proper spiritual wash without removing their nail polish, but that is a false hope.

The Scientific Perspective: Nail Polish and Wudu Compatibility

As a scientist with more than 25 years’ experience developing nail coating products, I can assure everyone that there are NO known formulations of any nail polish that allow water to pass through the coating to fully wet the nail plate as required. Here is the simple truth; no nail polish is compliant with the requirements of Wudu spiritual washing. Nail polishes that claim to be “Halal” compliant, are simply declaring they contain no forbidden ingredients and that has nothing to do with whether nail polish is Wudu compliant, as is required. Halal cosmetics are fine to wear, just as long as they do NOT interfere with Wudu spiritual washes before prayer.

Nail polish does interfere with Wudu, therefore practising Muslim women who care about water reaching their nail plates should be advised that they will still need to remove their nail polish before performing a spiritual wash and prayers. Marketers should be careful not to over promise what their products can do and should be clear about their limitations.

Exploring the Future: Prospects for Fully Compliant Nail Polish

After 25+ years researching the natural nail, I have a deep understanding of nail coating products and their chemistry, so I’m often asked, “what about the future”? Will there ever be a fully compliant nail polish that Muslim women can wear continuously and still pray regularly? I do believe that someday, a fully complaint nail polish that allows water to pass through the coating to wet the nail plate will someday be developed.

To make such a huge technological breakthrough will require a significant research effort, which now-a-days most cosmetic companies try to avoid. Only the biggest and the best can take on a significant challenge like this, so it’s not likely to happen any time soon and not likely to be developed by a small company. To date, all the money has been spent on marketing of “Halal” certifications and no one has been willing to invest in a real research program to create a fully complainant nail polish. But with approximately 500 million practicing Muslim women of nail polish wearing age, I suspect that sooner or later someone will create a useful and viable solution to great unfilled need.

The Risks of Service Breakdown when Mixing Nail Art

As nail artists, our creativity knows no bounds. We are always striving to offer our clients unique and stunning nail art designs and pushing our skills to the next level.

However, in pursuit of the perfect design, it’s essential to understand the potential risks associated with mixing nail art products from different brands. While it may seem tempting to combine different products, finishes, and textures, doing so without caution can lead to adverse consequences.

In this blog, we’ll have a look into the dangers of possible service breakdown when doing nail art to help you ensure the safety and longevity of your clients’ manicures.

Risks of Incompatibility: Mixing Nail Art Formulas from Different Brands

One brand offers a product your regular brand doesn’t have – so why not mix them??

One of the major dangers of mixing nail art products from different brands is the potential incompatibility of their formulas.

Each brand formulates its products differently, using different ingredients and slightly different chemical compositions. Mixing them can trigger chemical reactions between the ingredients, causing changes in colour, texture, and consistency, leading to unpredictable outcomes for the manicure.

UV/LED Lamp Compatibility

Different gel products from different brands will require specific exposure to UV waves, and these will vary in intensity, time, and length, to guarantee proper curing. Mixing brands can therefore result in inadequate cure, leading to not only service breakdown, but also increasing massively the risk of allergic reactions.

Changing Chemical Composition

Adding pigments, powder and foils to acrylic or gel products could alter their ability to polymerise properly, causing issues in the long run as that will be compromising proper cure. It’s best not to play chemist and stick to being a nail professional. You can premix glitter or pigment into a clear UV gel polish or acrylic powder, but make sure there is no more than 30% which is the usual recommendation for achieving a proper cure of the coating.

Only use cosmetic grade glitters and pigments, and NOT craft versions. These can react with the product or the solvents and create an irritation or an allergic reaction.

Possible Adverse Reactions During Removal

Remember those incompatible ingredients we talked about before? They lasted well after being applied to the nail, but during the soak off process adding acetone, it can become a different story!

Once diluted in a powerful solvent, we have no control over the chemical reaction that could occur. Stick to cosmetic grade glitters, pigments, foils etc. that were meant to be used together. Safe & proper removal of product is as important as the application, mistakes or damage caused here will influence the durability of the next new set, you may not notice it now, but in a week or 2 there could be real problems.

Conclusion

As tempting as it might be to purchase new products from different brands to test out designs, the dangers of mixing nail art products from different brands cannot be ignored. The risks of incompatibility, chemical reactions, inconsistent curing times, service breakdown, and challenges in removal can lead to subpar manicures, disappointed clients, or even a potential hazard.

To ensure the safety and longevity of your services, it’s best to leave all the guesswork aside, and stick to manufacture’s guidance, without trying to play chemist. Stick to one reputable brand for your nail art creations, only add in cosmetic grade nail art products in the recommended amounts and cure according to the manufacturers recommendation.

By prioritising quality and safety, you can deliver exceptional nail artistry that keeps your clients coming back for more.

Elevating Your UV Gel Polish Manicure: Achieving Immaculate, Natural-Looking Nails

Bio Sculpture pioneered coloured gel over 30 years ago, introducing the first soak-off gels to the market. The UV gel polish revolution began when brands, with some debate over whether it was Gelish or CND as the true pioneer, changed the gel’s viscosity and packaged it in a bottle with a brush. This new hybrid product offered a thinner application but had a shorter wear time.

Understanding the Differences: Pure Gel vs. Hybrid Gel Formulations

A ‘pure gel’ consists entirely of polymers, while a ‘hybrid’ is a pure gel infused with solvents. Both are permeable, but hybrids allow for faster acetone penetration, making them quicker to soak off.

Evolution of UV Gel Polish: From Glossy Finish to Sleek Traditional Look

The UV gel polish revolution gave the nail industry an amazing kick start as it was new and the consumer loved the long wear and instant dry characteristic.

Originally, the UV-gelled nail was super glossy, slightly thick and with a rounded edge. A look that many liked hence the invention of ‘gel-like’ traditional polishes. Not everyone liked that ‘bulbous ‘look and preferred the more sleek appearance of nail polish.

From Bulbous UV Gel to Sleek ‘Lip Gloss’ Finish

Things have moved on and some very skilled technicians take that extra care to achieve a slim, sleek and totally natural look. But this takes more time and skill.

The nails you see on socials with the ‘lip gloss’ look are good examples of this.

I’ve had my nails done by two such artists recently and I LOVE the look. So how do they do it?

Precision in Practice: The Steps to Achieving a Flawless Nail Finish

I’ve watched and, if I was in a salon, I’m not sure I’d have the patience. I have no patience when doing my own nails.

immaculate and exact prep.
a smooth base coat
applying a ‘slip layer’ (a thin layer of the coloured product, not cured, before the main coatings) gives the main coat something to hold on to before flooding the side walls
a thin main coat but only two nails at a time to avoid any movement
inverting the fingers to use gravity to pull the coating away from the sides, make it thinner, and create a natural apex. The nail needs to be parallel to the desk for this to work efficiently
then cure
finish the other two nails in the same way and finally the thumb separately
if needed, the colour coat is finished with a fine buffer or block but those skilled in this do not need to do this step as their application is perfect already
then remove any dust and apply a top coat
the main attention is on the lines of light as this shows up where the coating is uneven and needs to be corrected

All this takes more time and advanced skills but really is the way to up your game and make the result of UV gel polish manicures the very best they can be!

No more bulbous and uneven polish nails. Beautiful immaculate natural looking nails that are the envy of all.

For a prime example of this, I recommend checking out the Dryby Instagram. It showcases how photos can best capture this type of nail design.