General Information

The Danger of Misinformation in the Nail Industry

In today’s nail industry, misinformation is an increasing concern that affects both professionals and clients alike. Misguided practices not only lead to poor results but can also pose serious health risks. Now, more than ever, nail technicians need to rely on scientific evidence and reliable sources to ensure the safety and effectiveness of their treatments.

How Misinformation Spreads in the Nail Industry

In many countries around the world, including Chile, where I am from, inaccurate information is often passed on through influencers or trainers who lack a solid scientific foundation. These individuals, with large followings, unknowingly perpetuate myths and misguided techniques that harm rather than help. Instead of following verified research, many professionals rely on outdated or unsubstantiated claims, contributing to widespread misinformation.

Global Impact of Nail Industry Myths

This isn’t an issue isolated to a single region—misinformation in the nail industry has become a global problem. With the internet and social media playing such a dominant role in how information is shared, nail professionals across the world are exposed to misconceptions. Whether it’s improper application techniques, the use of harmful products, or following unverified trends, these practices can compromise the safety of clients.

The Consequences of Following False Information

The impact of following inaccurate information can be serious. Using unsafe products or techniques can lead to issues like allergic reactions, infections, and long-term damage to the nails or skin. Beyond physical harm, the reputation of the professional and the broader nail industry suffers when clients are subjected to unsafe or ineffective treatments.

The Responsibility of Nail Professionals

To combat the spread of misinformation, it’s critical that nail professionals commit to continuous education. By seeking out evidence-based information and verifying facts with reliable, scientific sources, professionals can ensure they are offering safe and effective treatments. Consulting accredited educational platforms, industry publications, and attending certified workshops can help improve the standard of care within the industry.

A Call for a More Informed Industry

The responsibility to stop the cycle of misinformation lies with everyone in the nail industry.

By questioning information, doing thorough research, and sharing knowledge grounded in science, we can all contribute to a safer, more informed nail care community.

Only by prioritizing facts over myths can we move toward a more professional and reliable industry that always puts client safety first and we only achieve that if we all work together.

TPO Ban: What Nail Professionals Need to Know

You may have heard about the upcoming ban on TPO in nail coating products. But what does this mean for nail professionals?

Regulatory Update (UK 2026)

This article has been updated to reflect the confirmed UK regulatory timeline for Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO). Under amendments to the UK Cosmetics Regulation, products containing TPO will no longer be permitted to be newly placed on the Great Britain market from 15 August 2026, with a further deadline of 15 February 2027, after which non-compliant products can no longer be made available for sale. These changes apply to cosmetic nail products supplied in both professional and retail settings.

Health Risks of TPO and the Upcoming Ban on UV-Cured Nail Coatings

TPO, short for Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, is a photo initiator commonly used in UV-cured nail coatings. However, the European Commission has classified TPO as a potential health hazard if present in the body in sufficient quantities.

Starting in September 2025, it will be illegal to include this ingredient in cosmetic nail products across Europe, with the UK implementing similar restrictions from 15 August 2026, followed by a sell-through period allowing existing stock already supplied to the market to remain available until 15 February 2027. This ban applies to the manufacture and sale of new products, not to the use of existing ones.

In cosmetic regulatory terms, this means products containing TPO cannot be newly supplied or imported after the deadline dates. Nail professionals and retailers are not expected to immediately dispose of existing stock purchased before the restriction takes effect.

Reformulation Efforts and Alternatives to TPO in Nail Products

Many reputable brands have already addressed this issue by reformulating their products to exclude TPO. There are several alternative photo initiators that provide similar results, ensuring that the performance of nail products is not compromised.

Safe Use of TPO in Nail Services Until the Ban Takes Effect

It is important to note that this regulatory change does not represent a ban on gel nail products themselves. TPO is one of several photoinitiators used within UV and LED curing systems, and alternative ingredients are already widely available. The restriction reflects an updated regulatory classification rather than evidence that professionally used nail gel products suddenly pose a new safety risk.

For nail professionals, it’s important to know that you can still safely use products containing TPO until the ban takes effect. The levels of TPO used in nail services are far below those considered harmful.

Ensuring Brand Compliance and Client Safety in the Transition to TPO-Free Products

It’s a good idea to check with your brand about their plans regarding this new legislation. If your brand has not yet moved to TPO-free products, it might be time to reconsider your options.

There’s no need to worry your clients if you need to switch brands. Cosmetic ingredients are regularly reviewed to ensure safety, and your existing gel polishes will continue to be safe to use during the transition period.

Doug Schoon on TPO Removal: Industry Impact and Safety Considerations

Doug Schoon, a respected scientist in the industry and expert at NailKnowledge, explains that removing TPO from nail products won’t necessarily affect their performance, though reformulation will be required. He notes that TPO can cause skin sensitisation or allergic reactions if not used properly, especially if skin contact isn’t avoided. However, when applied correctly by trained professionals, adverse effects are rare.

Schoon points out that most concerns about TPO stem from its use in non-nail-related industries, such as manufacturing printing inks and industrial adhesives. The decision to remove TPO from nail coatings isn’t due to issues with the nail products themselves, but rather as a precautionary measure for consumer safety.

He advises that brands can facilitate this transition by reformulating products with safer photo initiators, offering education on the proper application techniques for new formulas, and clearly labeling TPO-free options. Many nail brands are likely already working on or have launched alternatives to TPO that perform similarly. Nail professionals should proactively engage with their product suppliers to understand these changes, especially since clients may inquire about the safety and application methods of the new formulations.

Understanding the TPO Ban and Cosmetic Safety Classification

The restriction follows the classification of TPO as a CMR Category 1B substance under European chemical legislation. Under cosmetic regulations, ingredients receiving this classification are automatically prohibited for precautionary reasons, even where normal cosmetic exposure levels are considered low. This regulatory mechanism is applied across many cosmetic ingredient reviews and does not indicate that compliant nail services performed using approved products are unsafe.

Preparing for the TPO Ban: Guidance for Nail Professionals and Brands

As the transition progresses, nail professionals are encouraged to contact their product manufacturers or distributors to confirm reformulation timelines and future compliance. Many brands have already introduced TPO-free systems, and further updates are expected across the industry ahead of the 2026 and 2027 deadlines. Staying informed and planning ahead will help ensure continued compliance without disruption to salon services.

Are Men’s Nails the Same as Women’s?

Do men’s nails differ from women’s, or are they essentially the same? How do you approach this significant demographic that represents half of the global population? Do you cater to male clients in your nail studio, or do you typically not address this group? Let’s explore what to expect when working with male clients.

Let’s see what you encounter when you have men as clients.

Men’s Natural Nails

At first glance, men’s and women’s nails look the same. But once you look at the details, there are some significant differences.

Evolutionary Reasons for Thicker Male Nail Plates

The nail plate of a man, is thicker. In men with a healthy nail plate, the average thickness is 0.43 mm, while for women, it is 0.39 mm. The cause of this difference can be found in evolution, where men often had heavier physical tasks than women.

The thicker nail plate is not only found in humans; In all primates, the nail plates of males are thicker than those of females.

Harder Nail Plate

Besides being thicker, the nail plate is also harder in men.

Faster Growth

Another significant difference is the speed at which the nails grow. Men’s nails grow faster than women’s, except during pregnancy, when growth is more or less the same.

Nail Plate Thickness: Key Factors for Men and Women

Fortunately, men are also just humans, and the nails of men and women are otherwise identical. Here are a few basic rules:

If you have a short matrix, you will have a thin nail plate.
The thickness of the nail plate depends on the length of the matrix.
The longer the matrix, the thicker the nail plate will be.
Any disruption in the matrix will always result in an abnormal nail plate being male or female does not matter – disruption is disruption.

Man-i-cures: Attracting Male Clients to Your Salon

That men can be a good target group for the nail studio is not new. However, getting those men into the nail studio is much harder than expected. Of course, it also depends on where your nail studio is located. In rural areas, it can be challenging to go against established prejudices, whereas in the city, it is becoming less unusual for men to wear nail coatings – at our local DIY store – the guys wear gel polish – Black and Yellow seems to be their favorite color mix and they love it when I say – man your nails look great!

If you want men as clients in your nail studio, here are a few things to consider:

Men like clarity, so ensure clear pricing and service descriptions.
Men do not like delays; if the treatment takes half an hour, it cannot become 40 minutes, if you need 40 mins or 75 mins even – book it and charge for it.
Men respond differently to care advice than women. If you tell a male client to care for his nail folds four times a day with high-quality oil, they will do it four times a day. (this only works for men you did not give birth to or are not married too)
Men plan better ahead, so a manicure every three weeks is booked three months in advance. This makes men very suitable for subscription billing, making it easier for you to plan investments in the salon, or budgeting for special training.
Don’t forget the growth rate of nails in men is faster, so they may require more frequent appointments for in fills.
Men are willing to pay standard rates for treatments. If a manicure has a set price for 30 minutes, a man will pay that amount. If he finds it too expensive, he simply won’t become a client.

Why Attracting Male Clients to Your Nail Salon Is a Smart Business Move

Men in the salon are fun!

Measuring the rate of nail growth of any client before a service is important but for man clients more so simply because their nails grow at a faster rate, you want them back in the salon in time.

It could be worth popping in to the local barber to talk about working together in some capacity, it’s always good to hook up with other local businesses.

If I could do it all again, I would definitely invest in getting more men at my manicure table, It just makes good sense.

Oily Nail Plates and Proper Nail Coating Application

Nail professionals often encounter challenges related to the longevity of acrylic and gel polish on clients’ nails. A common belief is that “oily nail plates” are the primary reason for lifting and poor adhesion of these nail coatings. However, there is some confusion surrounding the presence of oil in the nail plate and its impact on nail treatments. In this query, a nail professional seeks a scientific explanation regarding the composition of nail plates and the true causes behind lifting issues. We provide clarity, addressing misconceptions and emphasizing the importance of proper preparation and application techniques to ensure lasting results.

Nail Professional Query on Oily Nail Plates

I keep seeing posts stating, ‘the client has oily nail plates, that’s why acrylic and gel polish doesn’t last.” My understanding is the nail bed doesn’t have oil glands so this isn’t possible. Clients can have creams or oils on their hands if they have not been washed correctly and the main reasons for gels and acrylics lifting is incorrect prep, not using correct ratios, mixing products or not using the correct lamp. Can you give me the correct scientific answer please?

Understanding Natural Oils in Nail Plates

Yes, you are mostly correct. I do disagree with one thing, it’s a myth that a lack of sebaceous oil glands in the nail bed means the nail plate can’t contain oil. The nail bed and underlying tissues also produce natural oils of differing compositions than the sebaceous glands, but these other tissues don’t make nearly as much oil as the sebaceous glands. About 3-5% of the weight of a nail plate is due to natural oils.

Hair can contain twice as much. I do agree with you that if the surface of the nail plate is properly cleaned and prepared, that nail coatings will stick well to even normally “oily nail plates”. Of course, very oily or wet nail plates can be a challenge, but these challenges can be overcome when the proper procedures/techniques are used.

Addressing Nail Coating Issues

Don’t look for excuses for why the nail coatings don’t stick, instead, examine your own work carefully. Many of these problems are more likely related to improper preparation, improper application, improper cure and/or improper removal. Examine each of these areas. Sloppy or incorrectly performed procedures may work ok for most clients, but these same procedures are more likely to cause problems with clients that have oily or wet nail plates.

Why It’s Smart Not to Apply Gel Polish on Damaged Nails

Understanding the Risks of Reapplying Nail Coating Without Allowing Proper Recovery

When your nails are damaged, it’s essential to let the nail plate recover before reapplying any nail coating. Failing to do so can lead to complications, making it important to choose the best plan of action for nail health and appearance.

Visualizing the Impact: Before and After

Before: Normal nail coating after about 10 days, featuring one layer of a Builder Gel for shine and a bit of stability.

**Photo 1: Builder Gel before an accident**

After: All Builder In A Bottle ripped off the nail plate along with the free edge of the nail plate.

**Photo 2: Nail plate damage after an accident**

The Importance of Sealing the Nail Plate

If we look at photo 2 and the yellow arrows, we need first to seal the upper layers of the nail plate before applying more Gel Polish, and if we cannot do that a more permanent base coat will need to be applied, if we don’t do this we will create pockets for air, moisture or both under our gel polish

Air – causes lifting

These pockets can trap various contaminants your nails come into contact with, such as dirt, bacteria, and moisture. If caught early, the product can be removed and replaced to prevent issues. However, if not addressed, trapped moisture can create an ideal breeding ground for opportunistic pathogens like Pseudomonas aeruginosa, leading to potential infections.

Moisture trapped causing pseudomonas aeruginosa

What can we do to Prevent Problems Happening?

Accidents happen, we can’t prevent those but our clients can help with good maintenance of their nail enhancements. A good quality oil helps prevent a build up of moisture and also helps to keep your nail and nail coating flexible and less prone to breaking or cracking, so a win win for your client but also for your salon, longer lasting gorgeous nails and happier clients.

Can we Recover the Nail Plate?

We can, there is a special product on the market today that is available the world over, treatments such as this will re seal the upper layers of the nail plate from the inside out and you will be able to re-apply your artificial nail product without a problem.

Without this product its smart to prep your nail plate with a good nail plate cleanser, and apply a semi-permanent nail product such as acrylic Liquid & Powder – Acryl has more than one advantage over a hard gel or an acrygel, it is designed to remain on a nail plate for longer periods of time and that’s important to know with this kind of nail plate damage, but if necessary, it can also be safely removed by thinning with a nail file and soaking off the last layer for optimal control and no extra damage to the nail plate.

Risks of Applying Short-Life Nail Enhancements on Damaged Nails

Placing a ‘short life‘ nail enhancement on a damaged nail plate is asking for problems and complications – something we would like to avoid in the nail salon. Doing so can create pocket lifting or a great home for opportunistic pathogens that are hanging around waiting to do their thing, recovery of the nail plate after such an infection takes considerably longer than recovering the original damage of the nail coating being ripped off.

It’s a good idea to inform your salon clients about the pros and cons of nail plate and nail unit maintenance with oils and lotions, its not just a sales pitch, your clients are paying you good money for nail coatings – having spent that money they also have a responsibility to keep them in the best possible condition and your responsibility is to provide a safe lasting service with minimal chance of causing infections.

Do	Don’t	Nail Product	Refer to MD
Keep clean and make smart choices	Disguise with artificial nail products without a plan	IBX, Oil & Lotion	If the nail becomes infected or changes colour
Use a semi-permanent product to aid recovery	Use hard gel or an acrygel – removal is difficult	Acryl -L&P
Oil 4dd’s		High quality Oil & Lotion

Contra indication: If the client already shows signs of a possible infection, redness, swelling or any changes in color do not reapply ANY artificial nail product. Refer to hygiene guidelines, hand care specialist or contact a MD

Understanding and Properly Using Builder Gels

Many nail professionals misunderstand the true purpose of builder gels, leading to their misuse and a tarnished reputation. Builder gels are not just thicker gels to be layered on for added strength; they have specific applications and techniques that, when used correctly, can enhance nail structure and strength without causing adverse reactions.

Misconceptions About Builder Gel Strength

A builder gel is a high-viscosity (thicker) gel, but this does not mean that simply applying a layer will enhance the nail’s strength more than a regular gel.

This is how many use it and then wonder why they are getting reactions from their clients that are lifelong and may mean they can no longer wear any type of gel!

The True Purpose of Builder Gels: Creating Structure and Strength

A builder gel is formulated so you can build structures with it. For example, you can create a perfect apex on a flat nail. OR for a weak nail, you can build a ‘backbone’ to create maximum strength. This is a slightly thicker line down the centre of the nail to make the whole length stronger but still look aesthetically pleasing and not thick and ugly.

A builder can do this as it will hold its shape, unlike a thinner gel which will just run into the sidewalls before curing. This is the way to use a builder.

The Dangers of Incorrectly Applying Builder Gels

By applying a thick layer thinking that will create the strength is wrong. It will look ugly and thick and will likely not be properly cured so the unreacted monomers can leach out or be released during shaping and removal causing an allergy. Game over!

The best way to use a builder is to first apply a very thin layer, often called a slip layer, some brands recommend curing, while others recommend not curing it. Then on this thin layer create a shape that is needed by the specific nail and the slip lay will help to hold it in place until curing. This must still be thin to properly cure. Another structured lay may be needed and that is OK.

Proper Application Prevents Adverse Reactions

In conclusion, do not just pick up your builder and apply it as a routine. Use it as it is meant to be used then it will do the job it is intended for and will be much less likely to cause a reaction.

All these reactions that are perceived as a problem with a buyer are wrong. If you are using a good quality product it will be the bad application that is causing the massive problem.