Nail Files and Buffers: What You Need to Know

Whether you’re a seasoned nail pro or a DIY enthusiast, understanding how to use nail files and buffers correctly is essential. These everyday tools do more than just shape or shine, they lay the foundation for lasting, healthy nails. From grit numbers to surface prep tips, we’ll break down exactly what you need to know to get salon-worthy results at home or in the studio.

What’s the Difference Between a File and a Buffer?

• Files are used to shape the free edge of natural and artificial nails, remove length, or refine overlays and enhancements, and prepare it for product.
  You’ll notice that files are labelled with numbers like 100,180, or 240. This number is called the grit.
• Buffers are similar to files, but much gentler. They’re used to smooth out ridges and prepare the nail plate without taking off too much surface.
  Just like files, buffers come in different grits, and the same rule applies. The higher the number, the gentler the surface.”

Understanding Grits: Coarse or Fine?

The grit refers to how abrasive a file or buffer is. It’s measured by the number of grit particles per square inch — lower numbers are coarser, while higher numbers are finer.

Common grit levels include:

• 80 grit — Very coarse: for hard products like acrylic (not suitable for modern use on natural nails).
• 100 grit – Coarse: used for removing bulky overlays.
• 180 grit – Medium: ideal for shaping and refining overlays or enhancements.
• 240 grit -Fine: the softest grit recommended for natural nails.
• 360 grit – Very fine: typically used on natural nails, especially delicate ones. A good all-round grit for manicure work.

·        400–900 grit – Very fine (buffer grit): found in block buffers to smooth the surface of artificial nails and prep for a high-shine finish.

·        900–1200 grit – Ultra fine (buffer grit): used for polishing, refining, and removing minor scratches from artificial nails. Creates a smooth, glossy surface before final buffing.

When working on natural nails, never use anything coarser than 240 grit. For toenails or thicker nails, a 180 grit may be appropriate.

Construction: What Are Files Made Of?

Each file or buffer has three key parts:

1. The Core

This gives the file its shape and flexibility. Common core materials:

• Wood – Traditional but brittle and can’t be washed.
• Plastic – Offers flexibility and strength.
• Foam – Adds cushioning for a softer filing feel.

2. The Backing

This holds the abrasive layer. It might be:

• Paper – Cheap and short-lived.
• Waterproof paper – More durable but still limited.
• Mylar or cloth – Long-lasting and washable.
• Foam-backed – Comfortable and good for buffers.

3. The Abrasive Surface

The grit itself can be made of different materials:

• Garnet – Hard and traditional, but too harsh for modern use.
• Silicon carbide – Very hard and sharp, common in black grit files.
• Aluminium oxide – Durable and less jagged, suitable for softer work.
• Silicon carbide with zinc stearate – A smoother, self-lubricating option.

Can Files Be Washed or Disinfected?

Some files are washable or submersible, others are single-use only. Always check the label. If not stated, assume it cannot be washed or soaked. Files that can be cleaned should be:

• Brushed to remove dust.
• Rinsed under running water.
• Soaked in disinfectant (as per product instructions).
• Dried thoroughly and stored in a clean, closed container.

Using Files Safely and Effectively

• Always file in one direction on natural nails to prevent damage.
• Hold the file with control and a light touch — avoid using excessive pressure.
• For best results, place the file between your forefinger and middle finger, with your thumb supporting the other end.
• Remove sharp edges from new files before first use to avoid cutting the skin.